Singapore, Malaysia & Perth (Aust.) 1984
This holiday is something different from my last few, which have been mostly spent in Europe, with a stop first at Perth, Australia, then on to Singapore and a bus tour around Malaysia where I made many new friends.
My journey started from Auckland, N.Z. Mother came with me to spend Christmas with my brother Maurice and sister-in-law Shirley who live in Perth. Just an overnight stay for me, there was a lot of catching up to do in a short time, Shirley had cooked a very nice early Christmas dinner especially for me and of course the celebration drinks that go with it.
There were a few hours to fill in next morning, just time to take a look around Fremantle, a coastal port town with lots of history and some wonderful heritage buildings. A drive into Perth city is always lovely with it’s majestic high-rise buildings reflecting on the mighty Swan River, the hilltop park was a good advantage point overlooking the city.
All too soon it was time to return to the airport and connect with my Airline flight to Singapore, it was only a 4-½ hour journey and still in the same time zone, I arrived there in pouring rain but a very humid 28 degs. The drive into the city was like a fairytale scene with lots of sparkling Christmas decorations along Orchard road, my 14th floor Ming Court room also confirmed the festive feeling.
Singapore was established as a British trading post in 1819 on it’s southern end, proved to be a very profitable settlement, the name originated from the word Singa Porda which means Lion, get lost.
The morning dawn nice and sunny, decided on a city tour to familiarise myself with this vast modern city. First stop was at the botanical Gardens, very colourful with huge displays of every type of orchids, the miniature Singapore variety was a favourite, with beautifully manicured lawns and shrubs adding to the fact that in this city that anyone caught littering was heavily fined made for a very clean place. Next was a local cultural show of traditional Malaysian, Indian and Chinese dancing and singing, great entertainment. The tour bus travelled the length of Orchard Road and the business area, then on to Chinatown where we visited a very old Budda Temple, beautifully carved and very colourful. Next was the highest point of the city, Mt.Faber, to take in the panorama vista of the city and cable car to Sentosa Island.
This is my first visit to Singapore and the shopping is suppose to be excellent, so I decided to order some “made to measure” clothes, (a sports jacket, four trousers, and six shirts) A night trishaw tour of the city including the majestic Raffles Hotel I had booked was cancelled because of rain again, maybe I will be lucky tomorrow night. More time to shop around for some photographic gear.
A beautiful sunny morning, I decided on a trip to Sentosa Island, just half a kilometre off the mainland, it is reached by fast ferry or by cable car, I decided on both, my 10 minute ride gave some beautiful views of the city and surrounding districts. There was a very interesting museum, which held much history of the war period and the occupation by the Japanese; a monorail trip visited many of the coastal fortifications of world war two. There was a beautiful sheltered beach, very calm and safe with a large breakwater to protect it from ocean elements. Also the Island had many lush types of parkland and mini rain forests, a peaceful spots away from the bustle of the huge city. Another monorail took me back to the depot of the cable car; I managed to change my ticket for the cable car again in preference of returning by ferry, and admired a different view. The afternoon gave me a chance to wonder through the huge department stores displaying all of the world-class produce you could imagine.
The rain stayed away in the evening so I was able to enjoy the scary trishaw tour with a group of twenty people, zigzagging through many streets of China town, there seemed to be no set traffic rules, in and out of traffic with hopefully skilled expertise, (I must explain the trishaw, like a bicycle, the guide peddles, you sit in a duel wheeled covered carriage with open sides). We stopped at Bugis Street to explore the hundreds of stalls alive with hundreds of shoppers, then a very old and colourful Indian Mosque, next was the famous Raffles Hotel with it’s amazing colourful History, first built in 1887, started as a ten roomed Colonial Bungalow and added to over the years till it reached it’s majestic beauty. Occupied by the Japanese in 1942, it was often used as an assembly place for prisoners of war. Surviving the war years it still has its elegant charm and culture of a pass era. No Asians were allowed inside until the late 1930’s, the famous cocktail, known world wide as “ the Singapore Sling” was invented by a barman in 1910. It was an exciting and happy tour with a difference, which I enjoyed immensely.
Next morning dawned to brilliant sunshine but quite a high humidity so after a leisurely breakfast it was a day of exploring on foot for me, firstly I went for a fitting of my made to measure clothes, looking good, then enjoyed some of the hundreds of wonderful shops, so much jewellery and electrical appliances, all at very reasonable prices. A visit to the huge Newton food hall was amazing not being used to viewing anything on such a big scale, many different countries were represented, displaying their delicacies, I settled on a meal of shrimps, vegetables and noodles trying to eat local, and was amazed by the huge portions of food, far too much for me, I needed a long walk to settle my stomach.
Early next morning, a pick-up bus collected me from the hotel to join the rest of the people and the start of a wonderful nine-day tour of Malaysia. The bus commenced our journey and soon we were leaving the suburbs of Singapore behind and onto the causeway separating the two countries. a complicated double customs check was eventually completed and we had our first glimpse of Malaysia , and the huge city of Jahore Bahran which we bi-passed and joined up with the western highway, taking a first stop at a local pottery to view some of the beautifully fired flower pots and tiles. Next we were passing through some very large plantations of pineapples, rubber and cocoa. stopped to view a typical Malaysian home and sample some delicious fresh pineapples. Arrived at the city of Malacca, very old and fascinating, took a walk around the markets, I wasn’t very keen on the live stock area, you buy some live poultry have it killed and cleaned on the spot, the outdoor meat stalls were also a lot to be desired, I guess it is the way these people have lived for centuries.
Our resort stop for the night set in a rural area with a private zoo close by. It was very warm so a swim in the refreshing pool which was set among beautiful lush gardens with displays of exotic flowers. Most of the fellow passengers were very friendly and I’m sure there will be some everlasting contacts made, especially two ladies from Germany, a couple from the south of England and a very colourful lady from Trinidad. I enjoyed the view from my room overlooking the pool; hope the rest of our accommodation is simular. The tour Guide, Sasi was very friendly and I’m sure fellow passengers will enjoy his humour as much as I do.
After a very English breakfast the bus was soon leaving our peaceful haven and heading for Kuala Lumpur. The coach passed through large estates of rubber plantations and paddy fields, lots of small villages and towns, it was just a two-hour trip along a lovely modern highway. The capitol of Malaysia, K.L. as it is referred to came into view, a bustling city of over a million people, very modern, situated in the heart of the Selangor State and is bordered by mountainous rangers, was under British rule till 1957 when Malaysia gained it’s independence, it was also under Japanese occupation during the second world war. Wealth originally came from tin mining. An interesting sightseeing tour took in the Imperial Palace, many historical landmarks of British influence including the Sultan Abdul Sama building, this 1848 shiny copper domed and 40 mitre clock tower housed important government departments during British administration, also an abundance of beautiful old colonial buildings from a past era. The central market place was where you found superb Malaysian folk art and souvenirs. The afternoon was spent with a visit to a pewter factory, then on to learn all about the tapping of rubber from trees.
Our Holiday Inn accommodation was very comfortable and a blessing to be in air conditioning after the steamy heat outside, a cooling shower and I was on my way to meet my German friends, Jutta & Maggie at the bar to enjoy some very nice local beer and a sample of very tasty cocktails, Oh well, you need to replace some of the perspiration lost during the day.
The tour carried on next morning to visit the Batu caves where Indians worship, there was approximately 200 steps up to the entrance, monkeys clambered up and down the railings looking for a handout of food. There was an Indian prayer session going on in one cave, I was intrigued by the lovely singing and chanting of their music, the next cave was full of Indian statues, all brightly coloured and very unusual. It had been raining when we returned to the outside again which made it very humid but the relief of air conditioning overcame the uncomfortable feeling. A visit to a Stirling silver jewellery factory was again something very different as we were able to watch nimble fingers create works of art. Our journey continued with the start of a long climb into the Cameron Highlands over about 60 klms of twisting road from Tapah, very difficult to negotiate but the scenery was very rewarding. We passed many tiny villages of thatched houses on stilts; the people seemed to be of a different race and much smaller and very primitive. The Cameron Highlands were originally a mountain resort for British stationed in Malaya around the 1900’s, a relief from the heat and high humidity of this tropical climate, later many people decided to retire there, building mansions and enjoying a life of tending their roses and strawberries and sipping English tea.
Arriving at the lovely Merlon Inn, a picturesque typical English half-timbered structure set among beautiful gardens overlooking a manicured golf course. It was Christmas Eve and our hotel put on a wonderful dinner for us, roast turkey with cranberry sauce and plum pudding, the local children gave a brilliant performance of Christmas carols and singing old English songs. Unfortunately for me I had developed a fever with horrible stomach pains, later to be diagnosed as a very slight case of malaria, I sure would hate having a full-blown attack.
After a very restless night for me I dreaded the long journey back down from the beautiful mountain retreat, but with the help of some medication from a doctor on board the bus I managed to enjoy some of the superb jungle scenery, even noticed some T.V. antennas on the roofs of the native huts? Some interesting stops, first to view a Chinese Temple built from limestone, then the palace of a Sultan. The trip today was to take us to the Island of Penang, only eight klms. off the mainland, it is only 14 klms long and is well known as the “Pearl of the Orient”, it was a British settlement and major port in the eighteenth century, many beautiful resorts and hotels make it a popular destination for tourists world wide, there is evidence that a bridge to the island has already started and will take the place of the slow ferry crossing, although the scenery was wonderful.
The Golden Sands Hotel was just that, right on the water front, my room overlooked the ocean and lovely beaches, tropical flowers and palm trees. plus my own private balcony. The Island atmosphere was most relaxing, lots of tourist shops and markets to explore. The evening was shared with my German friends, a delicious steak and lots of red wine and plenty of laughs, a time to try a local cocktail called Feringii Killer, the Islands exotic new drink captured in the fearsome face of a warriors head, whiskey, orange and fruit juices and floated with dark rum, Wow, it packed quite a punch.
Next morning dawned warm and sunny, our coach took us on an Island tour, time to enjoy the many golden beaches and stopping in at an unusual cloth-printing factory, then on through mostly unspoilt countryside, small plantations growing cloves and nutmeg. The Snake Temple was next on our visit, situated at Sungai Kluang near the Bayan Lepes Airport; it is probably the only one of its kind in the world. The temple honours a Buddhist monk and his healing powers, he gave shelter to the snakes of the jungle. Yours truly had been persuaded to get his photo taken with vipers wrapped around my neck, (why do I do these things?) The snakes felt damp and cold or was it my skin from fear?, at least I have the photo to prove my bravery. A Chinese Temple was amazing with a huge reclining Buddha decorated with lots of gold and priceless jewels. A special luncheon treat was on the 14th floor of recently built Merlin Hotel with wonderful panoramic views of Penang’s beaches and glistening waters.
Back at our Golden Sands hotel for a free afternoon, it was very relaxing to spend time lounging on the beach, sunbathing and swimming. The evening was spent around the huge circular bar set among lots of tropical palms with quite a few of the other tour members. A repeat of the local cocktail was a must; somehow I think it was bravery.
Sadly, it was time to leave this wonderful paradise and take the vehicular ferry back to the mainland and our eleven-hour journey through some of Malaysia’s dense jungle, our destination today, Kota Bharu. Travelling north towards the Thailand border passing many primitive villages, the highway had Army check points dotted along advantage pill boxes with armed soldiers on the alert for communist terrorists, many of whom were still in the jungle. Serious flooding had left large areas still under water but had resided enough for the bus to continue its journey.
Arrived at Kota Bharu in the late afternoon after a long journey, our Tanjong Jara hotel had thatched bedrooms built right on the palmed golden beach, lots of attractive lush gardens were close by. The setting was very comfortable and I was able to manage a cooling swim, then some refreshing drinks with my German friends. Sasi, our tour guide joined us and suggested we try a local restaurant to sample some of their fine cuisine. It was very tasty but just a little too spicy for me.
A Kota Bharu tour next morning was quite an experience, not so westernised, as it is the North/Eastern coast of the Malaysian Peninsular, lots of Mosques and old Palaces, different styles of housing and culture were noticeable as it is close to the Thailand border. Local markets were a little overpowering, fish and meat hanging in the heat and humidity, again the poultry purchase killed and dressed on the spot. It is the culture centre, a showcase of skills and customs. Our journey continued on through some badly flooded areas, it is the rainy season, and most of the houses are built on stilts, there seem to be a lot of poverty around but the people still smile a lot. We called into a kite maker’s factory, amazing colours and designs. Travelling along the coast we passed hundreds of fishermen’s shacks under the palms on the beach.
Back at our Tanjong Jara hotel again there was plenty of time to enjoy the warm waters of the ocean, another gathering around the bar with quite a few folk from our tour, then a Malaysian meal to finish off a lovely evening.
On the road again, this time to Kuantan, passing many fishing villages, as it was the monsoon season, no boats ventured out, drying any small fish caught by line helped to fill in the time. A call at one village we witnessed some cleverly trained monkeys climb trees and throw down cocoanuts, we were also shown the art of flax weaving.
The lovely Hyatt Kuantan was our final stop before returning to Singapore. A relaxing coastal vista overlooking the sea, most of the fellow tour members soon gathered around the huge pool to enjoy the last night together. There were many stories to tell and remarks of such a different lifestyle from our western ways.
Kuantan is a small but lively city in the state of Pahang, established by Sumatra migrants in the early 18th century. with beautiful beaches and a nice climate. British Administration controlled the tin mines of the past, now tourists enjoy its beauty and rich culture.
After a disappointing breakfast, mostly either overcooked or cold, and this is suppose to be a first class hotel, oh well, we have had some wonderful places to stay and enjoy the hospitality, we had a nine hour drive back to Singapore so it was an early start. There had been some heavy rain overnight and much flooding in the low areas but luck was with us, there were no detours. A lunch stop at a rubber plantation was interesting the art of process explained in detail, also a palm oil factory and cashew nut trees added to our list of new experiences. The return through border customs was a lot more relaxed, no searching of bags or interrogations. Arriving at our hotels in time for a quick change and some finals farewell drinks with some of our group.
This is the last day of the year, I hurried around to buy some family presents and see some more of this fascinating city before joining the remainder of my tour friends to enjoy some festive drinks and select a nice restaurant for a New Years meal, then join the thousands of celebrating people, linking hands together in one huge circle on the street to send out 1984 with the metropolitan chant of ‘Old Lang Sine”
Next morning, my last day with my newly found friends, hopefully there will be many years of happy friendship among us, especially my two wonderful German friends, Jutta & Maggie, the lovely English couple, Hubert & Molly, Tom & Carlene from U.S.A who were lots of fun, must not forget Vi Diamond, a special lady from Trinidad, tall, slim, colourful and would feel at home with a huge bowl of fruit on her head, she was attached to the defence forces stationed in Hawaii, plus a very talented ballet teacher. Sadly another farewell, hopefully to meet up with all of them in future years.
I boarded my plane for the return journey to Perth, Australia to spend some more time with my family.
They had all had a wonderful Christmas and New Year, I thought Singapore and Malaysia were hot and humid; Perth was dry and an overpowering 35 degs. We did manage a few trips around the city visiting a zoo, Fun Park, a castle in a natural limestone setting, river sport and anywhere there was some relief from the fierce heat of the sun. My brother Maurice and sister-in-law Shirley and their family had moved into their new home not long before Christmas so there was now mature shade trees and the lawn was still sand, mother seems to cope with the heat surprisingly well, dehydrating had to be watched carefully, especially the cold stubbies.
Too soon it was time the return back to New Zealand and a much cooler climate, the end to a most enjoyable holiday full of new experiences. Now to ponder over further travels which I’m sure there are still many of my list of dreams. Take care, Jimbo
