Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Singapore, Malaysia & Perth.(Aust.) 1984




Singapore, Malaysia & Perth (Aust.) 1984
This holiday is something different from my last few, which have been mostly spent in Europe, with a stop first at Perth, Australia, then on to Singapore and a bus tour around Malaysia where I made many new friends.
My journey started from Auckland, N.Z. Mother came with me to spend Christmas with my brother Maurice and sister-in-law Shirley who live in Perth. Just an overnight stay for me, there was a lot of catching up to do in a short time, Shirley had cooked a very nice early Christmas dinner especially for me and of course the celebration drinks that go with it.
There were a few hours to fill in next morning, just time to take a look around Fremantle, a coastal port town with lots of history and some wonderful heritage buildings. A drive into Perth city is always lovely with it’s majestic high-rise buildings reflecting on the mighty Swan River, the hilltop park was a good advantage point overlooking the city.
All too soon it was time to return to the airport and connect with my Airline flight to Singapore, it was only a 4-½ hour journey and still in the same time zone, I arrived there in pouring rain but a very humid 28 degs. The drive into the city was like a fairytale scene with lots of sparkling Christmas decorations along Orchard road, my 14th floor Ming Court room also confirmed the festive feeling.
Singapore was established as a British trading post in 1819 on it’s southern end, proved to be a very profitable settlement, the name originated from the word Singa Porda which means Lion, get lost.
The morning dawn nice and sunny, decided on a city tour to familiarise myself with this vast modern city. First stop was at the botanical Gardens, very colourful with huge displays of every type of orchids, the miniature Singapore variety was a favourite, with beautifully manicured lawns and shrubs adding to the fact that in this city that anyone caught littering was heavily fined made for a very clean place. Next was a local cultural show of traditional Malaysian, Indian and Chinese dancing and singing, great entertainment. The tour bus travelled the length of Orchard Road and the business area, then on to Chinatown where we visited a very old Budda Temple, beautifully carved and very colourful. Next was the highest point of the city, Mt.Faber, to take in the panorama vista of the city and cable car to Sentosa Island.
This is my first visit to Singapore and the shopping is suppose to be excellent, so I decided to order some “made to measure” clothes, (a sports jacket, four trousers, and six shirts) A night trishaw tour of the city including the majestic Raffles Hotel I had booked was cancelled because of rain again, maybe I will be lucky tomorrow night. More time to shop around for some photographic gear.
A beautiful sunny morning, I decided on a trip to Sentosa Island, just half a kilometre off the mainland, it is reached by fast ferry or by cable car, I decided on both, my 10 minute ride gave some beautiful views of the city and surrounding districts. There was a very interesting museum, which held much history of the war period and the occupation by the Japanese; a monorail trip visited many of the coastal fortifications of world war two. There was a beautiful sheltered beach, very calm and safe with a large breakwater to protect it from ocean elements. Also the Island had many lush types of parkland and mini rain forests, a peaceful spots away from the bustle of the huge city. Another monorail took me back to the depot of the cable car; I managed to change my ticket for the cable car again in preference of returning by ferry, and admired a different view. The afternoon gave me a chance to wonder through the huge department stores displaying all of the world-class produce you could imagine.
The rain stayed away in the evening so I was able to enjoy the scary trishaw tour with a group of twenty people, zigzagging through many streets of China town, there seemed to be no set traffic rules, in and out of traffic with hopefully skilled expertise, (I must explain the trishaw, like a bicycle, the guide peddles, you sit in a duel wheeled covered carriage with open sides). We stopped at Bugis Street to explore the hundreds of stalls alive with hundreds of shoppers, then a very old and colourful Indian Mosque, next was the famous Raffles Hotel with it’s amazing colourful History, first built in 1887, started as a ten roomed Colonial Bungalow and added to over the years till it reached it’s majestic beauty. Occupied by the Japanese in 1942, it was often used as an assembly place for prisoners of war. Surviving the war years it still has its elegant charm and culture of a pass era. No Asians were allowed inside until the late 1930’s, the famous cocktail, known world wide as “ the Singapore Sling” was invented by a barman in 1910. It was an exciting and happy tour with a difference, which I enjoyed immensely.
Next morning dawned to brilliant sunshine but quite a high humidity so after a leisurely breakfast it was a day of exploring on foot for me, firstly I went for a fitting of my made to measure clothes, looking good, then enjoyed some of the hundreds of wonderful shops, so much jewellery and electrical appliances, all at very reasonable prices. A visit to the huge Newton food hall was amazing not being used to viewing anything on such a big scale, many different countries were represented, displaying their delicacies, I settled on a meal of shrimps, vegetables and noodles trying to eat local, and was amazed by the huge portions of food, far too much for me, I needed a long walk to settle my stomach.
Early next morning, a pick-up bus collected me from the hotel to join the rest of the people and the start of a wonderful nine-day tour of Malaysia. The bus commenced our journey and soon we were leaving the suburbs of Singapore behind and onto the causeway separating the two countries. a complicated double customs check was eventually completed and we had our first glimpse of Malaysia , and the huge city of Jahore Bahran which we bi-passed and joined up with the western highway, taking a first stop at a local pottery to view some of the beautifully fired flower pots and tiles. Next we were passing through some very large plantations of pineapples, rubber and cocoa. stopped to view a typical Malaysian home and sample some delicious fresh pineapples. Arrived at the city of Malacca, very old and fascinating, took a walk around the markets, I wasn’t very keen on the live stock area, you buy some live poultry have it killed and cleaned on the spot, the outdoor meat stalls were also a lot to be desired, I guess it is the way these people have lived for centuries.
Our resort stop for the night set in a rural area with a private zoo close by. It was very warm so a swim in the refreshing pool which was set among beautiful lush gardens with displays of exotic flowers. Most of the fellow passengers were very friendly and I’m sure there will be some everlasting contacts made, especially two ladies from Germany, a couple from the south of England and a very colourful lady from Trinidad. I enjoyed the view from my room overlooking the pool; hope the rest of our accommodation is simular. The tour Guide, Sasi was very friendly and I’m sure fellow passengers will enjoy his humour as much as I do.
After a very English breakfast the bus was soon leaving our peaceful haven and heading for Kuala Lumpur. The coach passed through large estates of rubber plantations and paddy fields, lots of small villages and towns, it was just a two-hour trip along a lovely modern highway. The capitol of Malaysia, K.L. as it is referred to came into view, a bustling city of over a million people, very modern, situated in the heart of the Selangor State and is bordered by mountainous rangers, was under British rule till 1957 when Malaysia gained it’s independence, it was also under Japanese occupation during the second world war. Wealth originally came from tin mining. An interesting sightseeing tour took in the Imperial Palace, many historical landmarks of British influence including the Sultan Abdul Sama building, this 1848 shiny copper domed and 40 mitre clock tower housed important government departments during British administration, also an abundance of beautiful old colonial buildings from a past era. The central market place was where you found superb Malaysian folk art and souvenirs. The afternoon was spent with a visit to a pewter factory, then on to learn all about the tapping of rubber from trees.
Our Holiday Inn accommodation was very comfortable and a blessing to be in air conditioning after the steamy heat outside, a cooling shower and I was on my way to meet my German friends, Jutta & Maggie at the bar to enjoy some very nice local beer and a sample of very tasty cocktails, Oh well, you need to replace some of the perspiration lost during the day.
The tour carried on next morning to visit the Batu caves where Indians worship, there was approximately 200 steps up to the entrance, monkeys clambered up and down the railings looking for a handout of food. There was an Indian prayer session going on in one cave, I was intrigued by the lovely singing and chanting of their music, the next cave was full of Indian statues, all brightly coloured and very unusual. It had been raining when we returned to the outside again which made it very humid but the relief of air conditioning overcame the uncomfortable feeling. A visit to a Stirling silver jewellery factory was again something very different as we were able to watch nimble fingers create works of art. Our journey continued with the start of a long climb into the Cameron Highlands over about 60 klms of twisting road from Tapah, very difficult to negotiate but the scenery was very rewarding. We passed many tiny villages of thatched houses on stilts; the people seemed to be of a different race and much smaller and very primitive. The Cameron Highlands were originally a mountain resort for British stationed in Malaya around the 1900’s, a relief from the heat and high humidity of this tropical climate, later many people decided to retire there, building mansions and enjoying a life of tending their roses and strawberries and sipping English tea.
Arriving at the lovely Merlon Inn, a picturesque typical English half-timbered structure set among beautiful gardens overlooking a manicured golf course. It was Christmas Eve and our hotel put on a wonderful dinner for us, roast turkey with cranberry sauce and plum pudding, the local children gave a brilliant performance of Christmas carols and singing old English songs. Unfortunately for me I had developed a fever with horrible stomach pains, later to be diagnosed as a very slight case of malaria, I sure would hate having a full-blown attack.
After a very restless night for me I dreaded the long journey back down from the beautiful mountain retreat, but with the help of some medication from a doctor on board the bus I managed to enjoy some of the superb jungle scenery, even noticed some T.V. antennas on the roofs of the native huts? Some interesting stops, first to view a Chinese Temple built from limestone, then the palace of a Sultan. The trip today was to take us to the Island of Penang, only eight klms. off the mainland, it is only 14 klms long and is well known as the “Pearl of the Orient”, it was a British settlement and major port in the eighteenth century, many beautiful resorts and hotels make it a popular destination for tourists world wide, there is evidence that a bridge to the island has already started and will take the place of the slow ferry crossing, although the scenery was wonderful.
The Golden Sands Hotel was just that, right on the water front, my room overlooked the ocean and lovely beaches, tropical flowers and palm trees. plus my own private balcony. The Island atmosphere was most relaxing, lots of tourist shops and markets to explore. The evening was shared with my German friends, a delicious steak and lots of red wine and plenty of laughs, a time to try a local cocktail called Feringii Killer, the Islands exotic new drink captured in the fearsome face of a warriors head, whiskey, orange and fruit juices and floated with dark rum, Wow, it packed quite a punch.
Next morning dawned warm and sunny, our coach took us on an Island tour, time to enjoy the many golden beaches and stopping in at an unusual cloth-printing factory, then on through mostly unspoilt countryside, small plantations growing cloves and nutmeg. The Snake Temple was next on our visit, situated at Sungai Kluang near the Bayan Lepes Airport; it is probably the only one of its kind in the world. The temple honours a Buddhist monk and his healing powers, he gave shelter to the snakes of the jungle. Yours truly had been persuaded to get his photo taken with vipers wrapped around my neck, (why do I do these things?) The snakes felt damp and cold or was it my skin from fear?, at least I have the photo to prove my bravery. A Chinese Temple was amazing with a huge reclining Buddha decorated with lots of gold and priceless jewels. A special luncheon treat was on the 14th floor of recently built Merlin Hotel with wonderful panoramic views of Penang’s beaches and glistening waters.
Back at our Golden Sands hotel for a free afternoon, it was very relaxing to spend time lounging on the beach, sunbathing and swimming. The evening was spent around the huge circular bar set among lots of tropical palms with quite a few of the other tour members. A repeat of the local cocktail was a must; somehow I think it was bravery.
Sadly, it was time to leave this wonderful paradise and take the vehicular ferry back to the mainland and our eleven-hour journey through some of Malaysia’s dense jungle, our destination today, Kota Bharu. Travelling north towards the Thailand border passing many primitive villages, the highway had Army check points dotted along advantage pill boxes with armed soldiers on the alert for communist terrorists, many of whom were still in the jungle. Serious flooding had left large areas still under water but had resided enough for the bus to continue its journey.
Arrived at Kota Bharu in the late afternoon after a long journey, our Tanjong Jara hotel had thatched bedrooms built right on the palmed golden beach, lots of attractive lush gardens were close by. The setting was very comfortable and I was able to manage a cooling swim, then some refreshing drinks with my German friends. Sasi, our tour guide joined us and suggested we try a local restaurant to sample some of their fine cuisine. It was very tasty but just a little too spicy for me.
A Kota Bharu tour next morning was quite an experience, not so westernised, as it is the North/Eastern coast of the Malaysian Peninsular, lots of Mosques and old Palaces, different styles of housing and culture were noticeable as it is close to the Thailand border. Local markets were a little overpowering, fish and meat hanging in the heat and humidity, again the poultry purchase killed and dressed on the spot. It is the culture centre, a showcase of skills and customs. Our journey continued on through some badly flooded areas, it is the rainy season, and most of the houses are built on stilts, there seem to be a lot of poverty around but the people still smile a lot. We called into a kite maker’s factory, amazing colours and designs. Travelling along the coast we passed hundreds of fishermen’s shacks under the palms on the beach.
Back at our Tanjong Jara hotel again there was plenty of time to enjoy the warm waters of the ocean, another gathering around the bar with quite a few folk from our tour, then a Malaysian meal to finish off a lovely evening.
On the road again, this time to Kuantan, passing many fishing villages, as it was the monsoon season, no boats ventured out, drying any small fish caught by line helped to fill in the time. A call at one village we witnessed some cleverly trained monkeys climb trees and throw down cocoanuts, we were also shown the art of flax weaving.
The lovely Hyatt Kuantan was our final stop before returning to Singapore. A relaxing coastal vista overlooking the sea, most of the fellow tour members soon gathered around the huge pool to enjoy the last night together. There were many stories to tell and remarks of such a different lifestyle from our western ways.
Kuantan is a small but lively city in the state of Pahang, established by Sumatra migrants in the early 18th century. with beautiful beaches and a nice climate. British Administration controlled the tin mines of the past, now tourists enjoy its beauty and rich culture.
After a disappointing breakfast, mostly either overcooked or cold, and this is suppose to be a first class hotel, oh well, we have had some wonderful places to stay and enjoy the hospitality, we had a nine hour drive back to Singapore so it was an early start. There had been some heavy rain overnight and much flooding in the low areas but luck was with us, there were no detours. A lunch stop at a rubber plantation was interesting the art of process explained in detail, also a palm oil factory and cashew nut trees added to our list of new experiences. The return through border customs was a lot more relaxed, no searching of bags or interrogations. Arriving at our hotels in time for a quick change and some finals farewell drinks with some of our group.
This is the last day of the year, I hurried around to buy some family presents and see some more of this fascinating city before joining the remainder of my tour friends to enjoy some festive drinks and select a nice restaurant for a New Years meal, then join the thousands of celebrating people, linking hands together in one huge circle on the street to send out 1984 with the metropolitan chant of ‘Old Lang Sine”
Next morning, my last day with my newly found friends, hopefully there will be many years of happy friendship among us, especially my two wonderful German friends, Jutta & Maggie, the lovely English couple, Hubert & Molly, Tom & Carlene from U.S.A who were lots of fun, must not forget Vi Diamond, a special lady from Trinidad, tall, slim, colourful and would feel at home with a huge bowl of fruit on her head, she was attached to the defence forces stationed in Hawaii, plus a very talented ballet teacher. Sadly another farewell, hopefully to meet up with all of them in future years.
I boarded my plane for the return journey to Perth, Australia to spend some more time with my family.
They had all had a wonderful Christmas and New Year, I thought Singapore and Malaysia were hot and humid; Perth was dry and an overpowering 35 degs. We did manage a few trips around the city visiting a zoo, Fun Park, a castle in a natural limestone setting, river sport and anywhere there was some relief from the fierce heat of the sun. My brother Maurice and sister-in-law Shirley and their family had moved into their new home not long before Christmas so there was now mature shade trees and the lawn was still sand, mother seems to cope with the heat surprisingly well, dehydrating had to be watched carefully, especially the cold stubbies.
Too soon it was time the return back to New Zealand and a much cooler climate, the end to a most enjoyable holiday full of new experiences. Now to ponder over further travels which I’m sure there are still many of my list of dreams. Take care, Jimbo

Saturday, September 1, 2007

Overseas Travel. Engl, Greece & Japan




England, Greece & Japan. 1983-4
Another exciting holiday is about to unfold starting with my plane being delayed by five hours. There was quite a crowd to wish me farewell, it was getting late and some of my friends Lynn & Bruce left, along with my uncle & aunt, Max & Gloria, Don & Judy stayed till the bar closed at midnight. There was the long wait but finally the plane departed at 4.45am.for the start of my journey to England, a bus tour of Greece and a stopover in Tokyo on my return.
My body clock was soon put out of focus with bar service and a meal which should have been dinner, anyway that’s the penalty one pays if you want to travel the world.
The flight was via Papeete in Tahiti where another hour was lost through some maintenance on one of the motors, finally arriving at Los Angeles, where there was a change of planes and another delay, somehow it didn’t matter anymore, we must get to England sometime. My friend Keith Bougher was waiting for me at Gatwick airport, we were soon motoring to Feltham in London. Where Keith lives. A welcome shower and a few enjoyable beers and I was ready for the lovely English roast dinner and some nice wine.
The morning dawned cold and wet, it is winter here, but a temperature of a high of 11 degs was not the makings of a white Christmas. Keith was off to work and I had instructions of how to find the township, which was a 10 minutes walk. I had brought with me a large selection of parcels and letters to post to various family members living in England and soon decided it was time to sample my first draught beer, a Carlsberg Lager, plus a generous helping of sausage pie. I decided to explore the other direction, another township with the usual streets of terraced houses. English pubs fascinate me so it was time to check the décor of another gem.
Keith suggested we take a drive to downtown London to view the Christmas lighting, Harrods Department store was beautifully decorated, a portion of it had been recently damaged by a car bomb killing five people and injuring scores, moving on to Piccadilly Circus and Trafalgar Square, again a fairytale of lights. There were police everywhere on full alert keeping a close watch out for further bombings. Finally we settled for a cosy little pub beside the Thames. Luckily the rain had stopped and it was quite pleasant walking around the famous landmarks, then enjoying a late supper at Maxwells.
Awoke early next morning, Yes, it was my birthday, Keith’s flatmates surprised me with a lovely cake all lit up with sparklers, not very elegant sitting up in bed dropping crumbs everywhere. Keith called for me to take me to the train station, as I was going to spend Christmas with my sister-in-law and brother-in-law, Kerry and Angela Baine. It was a marathon journey firstly starting at Boston Manor station on the Piccadilly Line from London, changing at Green Park for the Jubilee Line to Kilburn, that all went smooth, remembering past accomplishments. I soon found my way to Kerry & Angela’s terraced home which they are currently renovating. The house has three floors, one large room wide, over a hundred years old, they had lovingly restored the grand staircase all the way to the top floor, carpeted and painted, installed gas heating throughout, just the kitchen and dining room to go The kitchen had all the floor boards removed, just a wide plank over to the stove, tricky. There was a lot of excitement meeting up again after about eighteen months, and of course meeting their daughter Emma for the first time. I had brought lots of Christmas parcels from home to go under the tree. The duty free rum got quite an airing also, as it was still my birthday.
It was another mild morning, dam, and no snow for Christmas. Kerry did room service with tea and toast, then it was time to do some exploring, I tried to locate my cousin, Velmai Becker, who lived close by, she wasn’t home so I decided on a stroll into Kilburn and explore the town.
Later I tried out my skills with the underground trains, quite simple now that I understand the different lines, my first stop was around Waterloo and Trafalgar Square which is the undisputed centre of London where a statue of Nelson stands high on a column guarded by lions, taking photos and just gazing of the many recognizable identities. With darkness falling early as it was winter, I did a quick trip to view Buckingham Palace but will need to come back to watch the changing of the guards which is held at noon daily. My return tube journey (as it is called) was with ease and there was still time to enjoy a beer in another quaint pub.
It was a nice day for more exploring, Kerry went to work, Angela and I travelled to a huge shopping centre where I was able to buy some much needed warmer clothes, also a chance to buy a few Christmas presents. Kerry suggested we go to an Irish pub close by, a very enjoyable evening with entertainment by a group of Irish singers; the Guinness was extra flavoursome also.
Another mild morning, I decided on a journey back to central London, visit more exciting landmarks like the Tower of London, which has a long and gory history since Roman times, it was also the sight of several beheadings including Anne Boleyn, the tower also houses the Crown Jewels of England. Madame Tussaud”s Wax museum with its extremely lifelike statues of famous people the world over. I found another very interesting pub called “the Glass Blower” which served a wonderful chicken and ham pie. Time to catch up with my cousin Valmai and her husband David for a Christmas toast, they showed me around some more interesting places and we finally settled in a comfortable pub with a roaring fire, an enjoyable meal and sparkling beers. Walking back home we discovered a pub called the “King of Bohemia”, appropriate for my heritage, so it was nice to have a farewell drink there.
Next morning being Christmas Eve day Kerry and I needed to beat the crowds and buy some liquid refreshments for the big day, I am looking forward to taking part in the English way of celebrations. After the important chores were done we took a drive via the M1 motorway to the lovely old city of St Albans with a huge nine centuries old Cathedral which had a very beautifully decor interior with lovely stained glass windows beautifully preserved .We then moved on to Hammerstead, another well kept city of old Victorian buildings, next was Harrow with the well known University of Harrow, many buildings of the complex dated back many centuries, it seemed to be a city within a city built on a hill. Returning to Kilburn we never seemed to leave the multitude of towns and housing estates.
Christmas day has arrived, crisp but no sign of snow or rain, a very excited Emma deciding on which present to open first, the turkey stuffed and with doing a balancing act over planks set down on the unfinished floor, placed in the oven, the vegetables prepared and a huge Christmas pudding on the boil, a few celebrated drinks were called for, I was the first relation to spend the festive season with them since living in England, I’m sure that was a good enough excuse.
The meal was cooked to perfection, cranberry sauce commented the turkey and the brandy poured over the pudding set alight, then enjoyed. Angela had done an excellent job of keeping the style of Christmas as close to tradition as possible.
A long after dinner walk was a means of settling down the huge amount of food, young Emma received a trike as a present so I seemed to have the task of teaching her to ride. We all enjoyed celebrating Christmas together but there were sad times reminiscing over loved ones back home.
Boxing day dawned to sunshine but a cold wind, Kerry and I returned to the centre of London, first call was Westminster Abbey in Parliament Square, British sovereigns are married and crowned, many great men and women are buried there, a huge dark very ornate building, wonderful to actually visit it. Next the sight of Big Ben dwarfed surrounding buildings, an incredible landmark. I am now completely lost but thanks for my tour guide Kerry we found St. Katherine’s Dock for old marine ships, set out like a floating museum. Then the East End, original home of the Cockney people. We travelled through the Blackwall Tunnel under the Thames to the Royal Navel College then on to Greenwich where the Tee-clipper, Cutty Sark was launched in 1869 and Gipsy Moth, a ketch in which Sir Francis Chichester sailed around the world in 1966, both vessels are there on display. Greenwich Park Museum has a long maritime history with nautical clocks; adjacent is the Greenwich Meridian (0 degrees longitude) is where you can have one foot in each hemisphere. Passing Blackheath we noticed a sign which told us that this was the place where the dead from the “Black Plague” of London were buried After seeing this it was time for some refreshing beers before returning via St Paul’s Cathedral, it was a clear afternoon and this allowed some impressive photos. Covet Gardens was worth spending some time and the famous Drury Lane Theatre, finally there was a wonderful view of Greater London from Primrose Hill before heading back. It had been a very interesting outing and a wonderful way to spend Boxing Day in London.
Next morning Angela and Emma joined us on a further exploration around this vast city, driving first on the north circular road, then joined up with the south circular road, bi-passing many towns and villages, a slow trip with many traffic jams as thousands of cars seem to be sightseeing. then over the Kew Bridge and into Richmond Park where we took a long stroll along the banks of the River Thames. It turned quite cold so what’s better than a cosy pub, which by coincidence was where Keith and I had visited. We motored through the south west and Middlesex where the huge brick Palace of Hampton Court came into view with it’s capacious bay windows gazing out into the countryside, elaborate chimney stacks joined the gables and turrets of the 16th and 17th century palace. The interior was very elaborate as were royal households of that era. We returned by a different route, going through many towns and as this is mid-winter it gets dark soon after 4 pm. Angela cooked a lovely meal of assorted leftovers from Christmas and as this was my last night with them a few farewell drinks were called for.
Rose a little earlier this morning as I needed to organise my own itinerary, after some sad goodbyes it was firstly a trip on the tube to Liverpool Station to catch the train to visit my friends at Clacton-on-Sea, the train took a coastal route passing rural and orchard country, thanks to a lady sitting beside me I was told all the history of the area, small boats travelled the tidal rivers collecting goods like timber and steel from different jetty’s. My friends, the Kirk’s were waiting for me and after a tour of the area we arrived at their local club to enjoy a few drinks and meet their friends, next was the quaint old pub with low beams called “Robin Hood” for further drinks and a nice meal. It was nice to catch up with these folks again, I had met them while working in a pub in Hamilton, New Zealand, and they had decided to return to their homeland.
It was just an overnight stay with my friends and I was soon back on the train heading north to Newcastle-upon-Tyne. I needed to go back to Liverpool Station where I caught the express. It was a very smooth journey with only two stops on the three-hour trip. Again another friend, Harry Letch whom I had also met in Hamilton, we had previously travelled in America together before he came back to his hometown .He was there to meet me at the station, a happy reunion, then we were headed for the small coal mining town of Birtley where he lives. A drive around the town refreshed my memory of a previous visit in 1981, the local pub was a good place to meet again all the friends I had made and enjoy a few pints of liquid amber, along with the familiar Geordie accent.
Next morning we took a drive into the city, Newcastle, where I bought some new photographic equipment in a large department store. The city is a sprawling industrial conurbation, not pretty at first sight but with plenty of atmosphere. It has six bridges including Robert Stephenson’s double-decker road ad rail bridge of the 1840’s. There are many medieval quayside buildings, the 17th century guildhall and castle, which are pre-industrial survivals. Moving out into the countryside we visited a popular ridge overlooking Birtley to watch some daredevil hang gliders in action. The temperature had dropped below zero and I thought my body had frozen up, I felt paralysed, quite scary, but I soon managed to thaw out again once back in the valley. By this time we had earned a drink, this time to the local club where there was a gathering of more familiar faces.
This is the last day of December, rather windy and very cold, Harry and I took a drive to South shields on the north sea, It was even colder here but we did walk around the pier to view the lighthouse, then drove on to Marsden Grotto, where there was a hotel built into the cliff wall with natural caves turned into bars, most unusual. It was cosy inside so we enjoyed a sample of their fine product. The wind died down so we were able to enjoy a walk along the beach to view a huge rock shaped like a needle.
This is New Years Eve and what better way to celebrate than to all congregate at the local pub. At the stroke of midnight the custom was to carry out arranged first footing at selected friends homes, this meant someone has the honour of arriving with a piece of coal wrapped in newspaper to keep the fire going, I was selected for some of this ritual, pounding the streets trying to keep upright in the gale force winds, flying debris getting dangerously close but somehow we all safely arrived at different homes, enjoying a drink, then moving on again. This went on till the wee hours of 1984; I think it took hours for me to get feeling back in my limbs again.
Awoke late next morning, the weather had cleared so it was a good time for some photo shoots around Birtley, then back home for a delicious turkey New Year luncheon. A trip to Durham Cathedral and Castle just on dusk was to view the lighting, a wonderful sight, in all their ghostly splendour. Returning via a lookout spot gave us a further view of all the galaxy of lights
An early start this morning as Harry is doing the tour guide job again, this time, nearly to the Scottish border, Holly Island, Our journey followed some lovely northern aspect of rolling countryside, views of villages and towns dotted here and there, occasional sights of old stone bridges and fences, with only Cheviot sheep for company, the roads wound through towns called Longhorsley and Rothbury, then onto Alnwick, a dignified stone built market town, the huge Castle dating back from Norman times , has a sumptuous Renaissance-style interior. Leaving the rolling countryside behind we headed for Holly Island, Northumberland, which has a causeway from the mainland, which can only be used at low tide. We were in luck and had time to explore the old township and Lindisfarne Castle built high up on rocks, there was a bitter wind blowing but worth the effort to explore this rugged landscape. Next on our list was Bamburgh Norman Castle, revamped in the 18th century, has vast porcelain and armour collections. Our return journey was through Denwick and Morpeth, then taking the Tyne tunnel. A most interesting and scenic day out, but sadly this is my last here so a group of friends joined me for some farewell drinks in a lovely old “Potters Wheel” country pub.
Awoke next morning to snow, what a transformation of the landscape, everything coated in a virginal white. Harry suggested we had better go early to the station as it could become impassable later.
Once more, I needed to say goodbye to my excellent host and boarded the express train to London. Flurries of snow drifted past the windows and the whole countryside was a blanket of white, just as a Christmas card picture. Back to green pastures and a milky sun as we approached my destination. London. Again the tube proved an easy challenge arriving back to the family; Angela had prepared a lovely farewell dinner with lots of very nice wine
The morning proved nice and sunny after heavy rain overnight, more goodbyes and I was back on the tube again, this time for Heathrow Airport for my flight to Greece. There was a three-hour gain in time, I arrived at Athens about 8 pm, a taxi was there to meet me for the tricky drive into the city, it always seems a lot worse when you are driving on the other side of the road. The Electra Hotel, right in the centre of the city had a lovely marble foyer with Greek Statues, I booked in and was keen to explore some of the highlights of the city while there was still some light, finding a nice little restaurant, nice cold beer and light entertainment. Later I stopped into a bar to sample their Ouzo, not that it was among my favourite drinks but you need to try the local drinks, it was okay but, oops, I soon realised I was in a Gay bar, finishing my drink swiftly I decided on a night cap in the shelter of my hotel.
Booking a city tour next morning, first there was a general drive around explaining the attractions, then an hour at the Archaeological Museum, very interesting, hard to realise you were viewing articles of B.C. era. Next was the world famous Acropolis, standing in all it’s glory on a hilltop overlooking Athens. The architecture was magnificent, brightly coloured exterior sculptural decorations of splendid craftsmanship, 44 figures of the pediments, 92 metopes depicted the battles of the giants. The Erechtheion displayed some wonderfully preserved statues. The Temple of Zeus in the valley below the Acropolis was also very interesting; this was a good way to start my historical journey of the next four days. Lastly we stopped to view Athens Stadium, where the first Olympics of modern times were held in 1896 On the return to the city we were able to view the Evzones presidential guards, dressed in their multi-pleated white kilts, tight cream stockings and turned up shoes.
I decided on a trip to the old city of Plaka on the eastern slopes of the Acropolis, the narrow lanes have preserved their characteristic local colour, nighttime the echoes of guitars and orchestras are popular with the tourists
The city came alive at five p.m. after a siesta of three hours, huge markets appeared selling just about everything, streets upon streets of inviting souvenirs, very colourful clothing and many small food stalls. I bought some lovely small Roman Urns, beautifully decorated, it was explained to me if there was a piece of lead wired onto the handles, then it was original, they cost more, hope the info was right?
Next morning I join a tour bus of twenty people for a historical four-day trip around Greece. There were Australians, South Africans, Americans and, as usual, I seemed to be the only Kiwi. It was an overcast day but no rain. We were soon into citrus orchards and olive groves as far as you could see. The bus passed over the Corinth Canal, which was six kilometres long and eighty metres high, into the town of Corinth’s where we were able to view Temple of Apollo, the Greek God of Sun and the interesting museum. Next was the Epidauros, God of Health and Healing museum and the huge stadium, which has a capacity of sixty thousand people in a natural setting. The rest of the day was taken up with visiting various ancient ruins.
Our hotel for the night had a beautiful, very ornate marble foyer, a large fountain as a centrepiece and many reproductions of Greek Gods. A severe thunderstorm with lots of hail stopped us from exploring so I guess it was a good night to enjoy a few ouzos with some or our people from the tour bus
An early start for the long journey over very mountainous roads, great coast views and rugged cliffs, we arrived at the ancient town of Tripolis, lots of cobbled streets and white washed houses, very picturesque, next stop was Olympia, home of the first ancient Olympic games. Lots of excavation around the ruins, and an interesting display of how it all once looked like, this helped to understand the craftsmanship of some of the huge marble columns and even bigger stone slabs. It started to rain again so I took refuge in the streets of the town to check out the shops and enjoy the company of some of the other tour passengers, then a nice meal, now that I enjoy the taste of ouzo, there was not much else to do with all the heavy rain around.
The morning dawned bright and sunny, the way I had expected it to be, we travelled on to our final destination, Delphi, the roads wound around very hilly and barren countryside, passed through many interesting villages, I was amazed by the way the roads were constructed, at times they seem to cross over the lower levels as they headed higher into the hills, in the distance were snow capped mountains An unusual “Red Rock” appeared and I learned it is mined as a substance in the making of aluminium .
We arrived at our destination, Delphi, on the slopes of Mount Parnassus in time to benefit from the museum of Greek and Roman relics, including the famous bronze statue of the charioteer from the early 5th century B.C. We walked the Sacred Way to the sanctuary of Apollo in its wild and lonely setting and the treasury of Athenians .So much ancient history, here to view instead of reading about in books.
The town was almost deserted, but a few of us ventured out in the cool night air to explore the streets, found some very cheap wines which were later enjoyed. My three lady friends from Ballarat, Victoria, Australia were never far away and ready to sample a few ouzos and a nice meal and lots of laughs.
A later start next morning allowed time to visit more of the Apollo Temple which seemed to be built on a hillside, also the ancient stadium theatre, very large and impressive, further uphill was a wonderful view of all the ruins and the valley below. Starting our journey back to Athens we stopped at an old monastery called Mozaico of Saints, (Greek Orthodox) Built in the 11th century, A.D. it was magnificently decorated in lots of pure gold and also had a wonderful view from high in the mountains, there were still eight monks living there. This was a grand setting for a group photo.
On the outskirts of Athens we passed through some modern villages and lots of market gardens, a wonderful sunset was experienced just before arrival in the city, which was just coming to life again after siesta time.
A group of us decided on dinner at a Taverner as a farewell to a wonderful few days together. There was a continuous floorshow of Greek Zorba dancing and singing, plus some great displays of Belly Dancing. Somehow I was chosen to join the group and being guided through the intricate movements of hips and hands, (somehow I think I had been recommended to join them by my lady friends) The meal seemed to go on for hours with many a tasty dishes set before us to enjoy. On our walk back to our hotels two of my constant lady companions confessed to me they were not only sisters, they were nuns, here to enjoy a holiday just like the rest of us, this I wouldn’t believe till they showed my photos of themselves in their religious habits. Immediately my mind went back over the last few days, wondering if I had been a thorough gentleman or not?
Next morning I was excited as I boarded a small cruise ship for a three Greek Island trip, the day was calm, fine and quite warm, the first port of call was the Island of Aghia, a mythical sheltered harbour, perfect for swimming, explored another temple and noticed there were lots of citrus and nuts growing in the fertile soil.
Next stop was the Island of Poros, a small volcanic popular getaway of great beauty for Greek and foreign tourists alike, in the many lovely resorts scattered around the coastline.
The gem in the crown was Hydra, again an island of much beauty, rugged mountains in the background, although very poor soil, the brightness of bougainvillea against the whitewashed houses left a lasting impression of peace and tranquillity, no cars, only donkey’s as transport up very steep hillside villages. Our cruise boat had tied up right in the centre of town, which dwarfed the small houses and shops. I enjoyed climbing the cobbled steps from the sea front to explore the neat and stark whiteness of the homes, some decorated with ceramic pots of flowering geraniums and petunias.
My time spent on this beautiful Island was far from enough to take in the atmosphere of the way the inhabitants have lived for centuries, under grudge I boarded the cruise boat for the journey back to Athens, vowing to return one day to take in more of these exciting Islands in the Aegean Sea.
Some of the folk from the Greek tour were still in Athens and we had made arrangements to meet at another Taverner for a final farewell meal. We had chosen a more original place with excellent performances of Greek national dancing and singing; the entertainers were very talented and made everyone feel special.
The time has come to take a final glance at the city of Athens and catch my bus to the Airport for my flight to Tokyo, Japan, via London, with wonderful views of the Swiss Alps and the “The Matterhorn. Arriving in London was a culture shock, 5 degs C. and light drizzle. My friend Keith was there to meet me, we were soon away from the hassles of the airport and headed for his home, our first thought were some celebratory beers, even with the coldness of the day somehow didn’t matter. A group of us went to a very nice French restaurant, after all the mix of food in Greece I was looking forward to some good English food, never mind, I did enjoy, selected dishes I knew.
All too soon, my overnight stay with Keith was over and time for me to head back to the airport with Keith was my faithful chauffeur. I had managed to contact Kerry & Angela to say goodbye, now after a farewell drink at the airport I was on my own again for a nine-hour flight to Tokyo. The route was via the North Pole having a two-hour stop at Anchorage in Alaska. The outside temperature there was well below zero, and covered with a blanket of snow. Japanese people ran all the duty free shops, and even the food was Asian. The flight on followed the sun and landing at Narita Airport in the early evening, I was soon through customs control and on a bus to the huge city of Tokyo, clear skies but quite cool. My lovely room with kimono and slippers provided was on the 8th floor of the Shiba Park Hotel in the centre of town, still time for a exploratory stroll around the streets, then booked a four hour tour of the city for next morning.
The first stop of the tour was to Tokyo Tower and the viewing platform, sadly some low fog prevented me from admiring the huge vastness of this home of many millions. Next was the Imperial Palace, with all it’s glory, and gardens which displayed winter colours and hedges manicured to perfection With all the people in this vast metropolis this seemed to be a haven of tranquillity. Our next calling was to a flower arranging and pearl demonstration, not much interest to me but somehow the Japanese people seem to make a wonderful story around each display. It would be a wonderful place to come back to in spring with all the cherry blossoms in full bloom, but this was winter and I guess I was lucky to be able to enjoy the vastness of this huge clockwork city.
All too soon the tour was over and I just had time to collect my case and catch the bus for the 1-½ hour drive back to the airport for my flight to New Zealand. An unusual stop before the airport, we all had to leave the bus and take our belongings to a huge building where it was explained that everyone needed to had a full bag search, this was carried out by the very nimble fingers of Japanese girls, apologising all the time for any inconvenience, their expert checking left hardly a ripple in my well packed bag, a further culture shock was a full body search, I loved it…. I had the feeling arriving at the airport that I was safe from any problems with bombs and guns while flying home. A short stop at Fiji was a great feeling of warmer weather after the northern winter.
Well another wonderful holiday has come to an end, the usual full check through customs, just in case you were trying to smuggle some goods which they were able to charge duty on, I was slugged $70 for what I thought was quite petty, but one must shut up and pay up if you want to see the outside of the airport. So it is back to work again to save for another exciting holiday somewhere. Till next time. Goodbye

Sunday, August 5, 2007

O'seas Travel. Canada & U.S.A . Bonanza 1989




Canada and U.S.A. Bonanza. 1989
Somehow I have managed to save enough money for another exciting holiday, this time to enjoy some of America’s great history and scenery, visit old friends and take a Cosmos bus tour of the East Coast of Canada and Quebec
It was a long 11. ½ hour flight to Los Angeles, after a wonderful Bon Voyage Italian dinner with some old friends in Auckland, N.Z.
On arrival I soon found my on-going American Airlines flight to Fort Worth - Dallas in Texas was the terminal next door. It was a sunset flight but soon darkness arrived, as there was a two-hour time difference. With only a few passengers the friendly staff were only too keen to act as mini tour guides, pointing out different cities and towns along the way, plus adding interesting history.
Although it was a late arrival to my hotel I was very keen to get started next morning, firstly to do a three hour bus tour of the city, starting with a drive around the business area of downtown set among a multitude of high rise office buildings, and the gleaming slab of the Hyatt Regency Hotel standing beside Reunion Tower topped by a huge Geodesic sphere, then on to West End, styled from old warehouses, now a popular place to eat and study the culture. A most interesting but sad part of the tour was to be on the spot where President John Kennedy was murdered in November 1963, a memorial is a stark and monument erected by the people of Dallas. We passed the Texas stadium on route 183, the gigantic domed arena of the Dallas Cowboys, the most razzamatazz American football team. Passing the John Kennedy Memorial Museum, I was keen to come back to visit after the tour, it offered an audio-visual presentation of his life and assassination called “The Incredible Hours” I enjoyed a stroll around the “Farmers Markets”, a collection of ramshackle tin-roofed stalls where they sell Texas-sized fruit and vegetables, chew tobacco, spit, pick a mean guitar or a playful fight. Old City Park is a great place to picnic on the grass among beautifully restored Victorian houses, old log cabins, an 1886 railway depot, a bandstand, 1900’s shops and an elegant Greek Revival Mansion from 1855.
After a violent storm, which lasted nearly all night, the morning dawned nice and sunny, I caught a Greyhound bus to take me to Memphis, Tennessee, my journey took me through miles of dead straight freeway, broken occasionally by a ranch house, the bus called into many little towns including Little Rock. The scenery started to get more interesting as we neared Tennessee, the contrast of lush green pastures and lots of trees. Arriving in the evening I took a cab to my hotel, this is when the fun started, the driver had never heard of the place, driving all over town trying to find it, finally after some panic on my part at noticing the huge amount showing on the meter, I asked him to stop while I asked a gas station attendant, luckily he new the problem, the hotel had changed ownership, plus the name from Quality Inn to Park Inn, my driver did compromise by halving the fare.
Everything was closed as it was Independence Day, 4th July, even the hotel dining room, luckily the bus tours were still going so I booked one to Elvis Presley’s Gracelands. A place I was very interested to visit, being the same age as the king and I had grown up in the era of his music. The tour headed straight for “Gracelands”, the mansion home of E.P. built on a lush rolling 14-acre estate with white timbered fences for his beautiful horses it was opened to fans in 1982 and the spirit and taste of the “Rock’n’Roll” king infuse every part Gracelands. A tour of the interior included his living room, music room, which is completely soundproofed including, carpeted ceilings. There was still an old aunt living upstairs. A huge collection of Elvis’s leather and lame^ costumes, plus his trophy building which houses his gold records and awards. The tour takes in the Meditation Gardens where Elvis, his twin brother and members of his family are buried. (One thing that was missing was the digital audio accompanied commentary, which gave the lifetime history as you moved about the property; this was installed for my later visit) Across the road were many shops selling souvenirs, plus the resting place for his two jet planes, which were also open for viewing.
Deciding on an afternoon tour of the city, built on the banks of the Missippippi River, it is the heart of the great Southern hospitality. Beale street, the home of the blues in it’s heyday of the 1920’s had a much more carnival atmosphere with lots of drinking halls, gambling dens, prostitution, voodoo, booming nightclubs, many eating places and lots of pawnshops. We visited the Sun Studio where Elvis made his first recording and some great views of the mighty Mississippi River. The tour ended at the famous Peabody Hotel, a masterpiece of elegant décor and furnishings combined with historical riches. A main attraction at this 120 years old magnificence is the “Duck March”, at precisely 5 pm. daily the ducks leave their roof top duck house come down in the lift and waddle over red carpet to the huge centrepiece fountain in the Hotel foyer and go for a swim. My stay in Memphis was far too short but I vowed to return which I did later.
After missing my first Greyhound bus because the taxi was late, luckily there was another an hour later for my journey to Nashville for a short stop then on to Louisville. Not enough time to explore but this will be another return visit for me one day. The landscape from the bus was quite flat but still nice and green with lots of trees, then the countryside changed to fields of cotton, tobacco and corn. Joining the freeway at Nashville, quite boring until the start of the Kentucky Stud country. Louisville is the home of the annual Kentucky Derby races. A large modern city, it was late so there was not much time for exploring, I did manage a while in the Kentucky Museum of Arts and Crafts, very interesting. Unfortunately these are just overnight stops on my way to New York but at least it gives me some ideas for further holidays.
Greyhound was late again, I caught the bus to Pittsburgh with changes at Cincinnati and Columbus, There seemed to be delays everywhere, no one seamed to be in a hurry. At least the scenery was lovely, still lots of lovely trees, flat and lush, then on to rolling countryside, an unusual entry into Pittsburgh was via a road tunnel to the city centre. Again arriving late, there was no chance at taking a bus tour so it was just a matter of sightseeing on foot, only seeing the usual downtown attractions.
After the usual confusion of deciding which lane to take, I caught the express bus to New York passing back through farming and crop country, then on to forest and rolling hills, enjoyable, but then we took the freeway, which was uninteresting. It was soon obvious that we were getting closer to the “Big Apple” by the huge increase in traffic and the sky was alive with the spectacle of this huge concrete jungle. Arrived in the downtown metropolis via the Lincoln tunnel, which was at least three miles long.
My hotel was close by the central bus station so after checking in I managed to find my bearings around familiar streets names, a multitude of races going about their daily business, as it got dark millions of lights took over, making a fairytale atmosphere. I managed to book a full day bus tour for the next day and arrangements to meet up with fellow members for the Cosmos tour of Canada that starts from my hotel the day after next.
A Grey line tour bus collected me and was soon heading for Greenwich village, then Harlem, Chinatown, Wall Street, a two hour stop at the World Trade Centre, (I was hoping to go up the Empire State Building but it was closed that day) Anyway I was happy to be able to experience the express lift to the 107th floor in just under a minute, then an escalator to the 110th level which was outdoors and gave a panorama 360 degs. magnificent view of New York City. The Trade Centre was started in 1966 and completed in 1973, comprising of two identical towers with a striking entrance of huge silver arches of which I needed to lie on my back to get a photo.
Moving from this spectacular vista we caught a ferry to Liberty Island to enjoy the massive size of the Statue of Liberty, a gift from the French people, stands guard over the entrance to New York harbour. It was erected in 1886. When I arrived on the Island there was a huge crowd, the waiting time to explore this grand old lady was about four hours, a real disappointment as there was only a two hour stop on the tour so I had to be satisfied just admiring it at close quarters. Back on the mainland and downtown Manhattan I was able to catch a glimpse of the Empire State Building at close range, this must have been an amazing piece of architecture, the building is huge, 102 stories, built in 1931, this was during the depression, when completed most of the office space was empty and the building paid it’s taxes from the sightseers
Next morning I met up with fellow passengers for a Cosmos twelve-day bus tour of Canada/Quebec. There were only 30 people taking the tour and it didn’t take very long to make friends with the majority of them. Leaving New York the bus followed the coastline north from N.Y through Massachusetts, to the first stop, Boston. Our tour guide was very informative with history and things to see and do on this trip.
A brief history, Boston was the largest British settlement in north America, a centre of opposition to British trade restrictions, culminating the Boston Tea Party in 1773, today it attracts about ten million tourist per year, many museums and art galleries. The tour bus set us down in Harwood St. to explore the old converted warehouses on narrow cobbles streets; I discovered a small restaurant that served a delicious Clam chowder. We took a city tour in the afternoon to view some of the elegant buildings and have the history explained. A visit for an enactment of the “ Boston Tea Party” on a replica tall ship gave us an interesting display of past history. Boston has a large Irish population who arrived in droves after the 1845 potato famine in Ireland mingling with the Anglo-Saxon descendents of the original settlers, also a large black community with a proud past in Boston as the first freed slaves. The hotel we stayed in was quite a way from the centre of the city, but I managed to find a delightful Irish pub to keep me occupied for the evening.
Next morning was a long journey to Quebec City; travelling north along the picturesque coastline with it’s many huge mansions built in the 1800’s from vast profits from Whaling, on to Hampton Beach, then turning inland through vast logging forests and the Canadian border of Quebec State, where there was a customs check, now into some beautiful scenery and picturesque towns and villages. Noting that many houses has aluminium roofs to help melt the heavy snows of winter.
Arriving in the magnificent city of Quebec the European flavoured Capitol of the province it didn’t take long to notice the French flavoured influence where it is said only 4% of the inhabitants don’t speak French .An interesting bus tour took in the entire cities highlights, firstly the lower town with it’s historical churches, narrow cobbled lanes revamped into a collection of art museums, bars, restaurants and cafes, lots of artists displayed their wonderful paintings on the sidewalks, I couldn’t resist a small collection of original oil paintings of the district. Moving to the upper town, starting on top of “the Rock” was the cities principal landmark, the hotel “ Chateau Frontenac” which has loomed over the city since 1892 like a protective fortress, it’s fairytale turrets are of Gothic-Renaissance architecture, the green copper roofs are a familiar sight throughout the main cities of Canada. In the courtyard surrounding the hotel many artists were staging short comedy plays and readings, all dressed up in period clothes. A tour of the inside of the hotel was also remarkable, the stucco carvings, tapestries and wood panelling. Taking high tea there was worth more than my budget for a week so I settled for a few beers with fellow bus passengers Clair and Loretta in a nearby bar.
I took a “Quebec by Night” tour, which included a tasty French meal, the night-lights gave an enchanted glimpse to this romantic city, plus the wine was wonderful.
Alas it was time to leave this picturesque city and move on towards Montreal, following the mighty Lawrence River among very fertile with dairy farms and summer crops taking advantage of the river for irrigation, a stop at the Notre-Dame Du Cap Shrine, a pilgrimage town dedicated to Mary. Lots of little towns and villages were dotted along the way, finally we arrived at old Montreal, still time to make a three hour tour of the city, the great metropolis is built on an Island, it is a sprawling city of cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, each a delight to stroll around. Many beautiful old churches like the huge Cathedral of St. Joseph Notre Dame with its beautiful 18 ct. gold painted wooden carvings and highly decorated alter figures. Most of the important buildings had the green copper roofs and French styling. Again it was exhilarating to walk around the narrow cobbles streets.
This evening we were invited to a medieval banquet as guests of the Governor of Montreal, actually is was a re-enactment, with food dished up on pewter plates and drinks served in pewter goblets. A governor was selected among the guests and yours truly was chosen, I was whisked away to a changing room, returning in my scarlet robes and crown, my moments of glory were that all the guests had to bow to me and wait for me to start eating before the meal could be taken, there were no cutlery so we ate with our fingers. The entertainment was from top class performers, a mixture of 16th century and early settlers style. It was nice to feel important for a few hours; I paid for it with on-going smart remarks for the rest of the tour.
It was hard to leave this unusual vibrant city but our journey continued next morning to the National Capitol Ottawa, this time taking the secondary roads, it was great to be off the freeways and enjoy the beauty of rural and river scenery, we took a pause at the Chateau Montebello, a beautiful resort built of interlocking logs, no nails were used, one could just imagine the lovely setting when it would be surrounded with snow during winter.
On arrival in the Capitol, Ottawa our bus did a tour around the city, taking in the huge mass of Parliament Hill buildings and the many huge residents of the world’s ambassadors. The Rideau Canal which stretches from the inner city to Lake Ontario 200 klms away, it also qualifies in winter as the worlds longest skating rink, in summer it offers delightful boat cruises and canoeing. We were able to view the “changing of the guards”, at the Presidents residence. It was a lovely day for exploring the main city by foot experiencing some interesting markets and beautiful buildings and gardens, I joined Claire and Loretta for an evening meal, then watched the re-inaction of the history of Ottawa outside Parliament Hill, the lighting and narration was well done. The city as with other centres of Canada I have already seen is lovely and clean and tidy.
An early start for the ongoing journey to Toronto, back following the Lawrence River, a stop at the town of Gananoque to take a relaxing cruise around some of the thousand Islands on the river, most occupied with either holiday homes or huge mansions. The bus was waiting for us continuing on to Kingston for a lunch break and enjoy an enactment parade of 1832 of soldiers at Fort Henry.
Arriving in Toronto in the late afternoon, still lots of daylight and time to explore downtown and a lovely meal. This city is quite different from the others of Canada, very little French spoken, quite an abundance of undesirables roaming the streets so it did pay to stay together in a group.
A full city tour was organised for this morning, noticeably lots of red brick buildings in the older part. It was hard to believe that this gleaming business and urban life was in the 1790’s a malarial swamp. The old and new city halls had individual character, downtown business area with the usual high rises, lots of elegant shops, Bloor St. is the fashionable hub of the city. A drive along the waterfront showed much recreation areas set aside for families and sport. Looming in the distance was the huge CN. Tower that dominates over the all weather sports dome.
After our city tour Claire and I managed to catch a local bus back to explore the tower, there was a long queue to go up the tower, which we finally made, the first section took 58 seconds, the glass fronted viewing platform of the observation deck gave us a brilliant view of the whole metropolitan area of the city, a further lift took us to the space deck at 447 mts., the height to the top was 553 mts. or 143 stories, it is higher than a simular monster in Moscow but Chicago’s Sears building is still the tallest.. The sports dome with it’s all weather cover way below, dwarfed by the amazing building structure of the tower. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the abundance of warehouses and department stores, settling for a sidewalk café for a few well-deserved beers.
Our journey next morning was a 1 ½ hour drive to Niagara Falls, which divides Canada and America Borders, the more dramatic side, the Canadian Horseshoe Falls are 177 ft. high compared with the American Falls, 184 ft. but has a smaller cascade of water. We took a boat trip on the “Maid of the Mist” out close to the boiling waters; a wonderful experience and everyone received a thorough wetting. A group photo was taken overlooking the falls. The town is a haven for holidays and honeymooners, lots of souvenir shops with the falls not far away at any time.
Claire, Loretta and I decided to use up our free afternoon to go back to admire the many different panoramic views and enjoyed the sunset colours of the Falls. Once again we discovered a nice little bar that served ice-cold beer. All enjoyed a late meal in a revolving Minolta tower overlooking the flood lit Falls, it was one of three dominating the skyline for that special sight.
Another lovely morning, took a look at the Falls once more at sunrise, also the Minolta tower silhouetted in the morning light. We crossed the Niagara River and back into America, through a far quicker customs check and started the long journey through New York State, then on to Pennsylvania following rolling country, into the valleys and into Amish countryside which is claimed to be the most fertile in America, German and Dutch communities, manicured fields of crops and dairy farming, very neat and picturesque homes and farm sheds, all without power or telephones, most wear their Amish clothing and drive horse and carts ,a stop at a typical store selling home made produce was a good chance to sample much tasty and nutritious products . Our next stop, the Hershey’s Chocolate factory just out of Lancaster, we were taken on a conveyor belt tour through the history of the factory, just so many different tasty chocolates, I really excelled myself in buying up lots of treats to take home.
We stayed the night in a lovely country lodge, very quiet until we all took over the bar and enjoyed the cheapest beer on the trip, by now friendships were made and hopefully will last for many years.
Before leaving this squeaky clean area, we made a call at a typical Amish house and farm, listened to a talk on their history and customs, finally making a stop at a small bakery to indulge once more in delicious cakes, pastries and pies.
Following the freeway south to Baltimore, then on to Washington. D.C. On arrival the bus took us on a brief tour of the historical section of the Capitol city, it was a grand view looking down the long grassed recreation area towards the needle tower of the Washington Memorial, then a drive around to view the Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and the huge Dome of Capitol Building. On either side of the grassed area were many museums and galleries, plus the old brick building of the Smithsonian, history was all around us. Among the many displays of modern space travel was the original Star Spangled Banner, which is on view only once a day in a special ceremony. The White house, residence of the President of America was originally designed by an Irish-born architect in 1792, over the decades the very impressive mansion has been re-decorated many times to suit various presidents, The lower floor is quite often open to the public, sometimes even when the president was working upstairs. There was lots of history to be learned in the Capitol, sadly I am leaving the tour tomorrow at Philadelphia but excited on going back to Washington to meet with my English friend Harry Letch, who lives there and we will explore the museums and galleries in depth.
The tour is returning to New York today via a few hours in Philadelphia. I was fortunate to be able to view and even touch the Liberty Bell, this was the bell that came from England in 1751, cracked en route but was repaired in time to ring from the tower of Independence Hall in 1776, then cracked again in the nineteenth century, now it has laid to rest for visitors to pat with affection.
After a final farewell to my Cosmos tour friends I caught the bus back to Washington. D.C. to stay a few days with Harry and enjoy more of this very historical city and surrounding districts, our first stop after a warm greeting was the nearest pub to enjoy a few beers again. Harry has planned some great sightseeing.
Next day we drove into the countryside along smaller more picturesque roads, arriving at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, where part of the civil war was fought, the Fed. Troops and the Southerners with Robert E Lee, the town had been burnt to the ground but has been lovingly restored to its original state. We moved on to another historical sight, Antietan, where the bloodiest of the wars was fought against the Southerners and the Feds, in a single day 22.000 troops were slaughtered. Here in the museum was an excellent panoramic re-enactment relating to the battle. Driving through the grounds there were signs relating to the history. Park rangers were great to listen to with their excellent knowledge, even the corn fields we could see had been cut to ground level by cannon fire, saw the stone bridge which was a stronghold during the war. The history of America is something that I was a bit ignorant about so this has been very educational. After a very long and interesting day Harry and I enjoyed sampling a few different beers in a local pub and a lovely meal.
Next day we continued our history lesson with a drive to a town called Federick, rich in lovely old colonial architectural restored to the original beauty, then on to Gettysburg where over 50,000 troops died in the course of the war, and a huge national park is dedicated to these brave soldiers. The day became very hot so we drove around the park pausing at historical sights like where Lincoln gave his famous address for freedom. There was an electric scale mural map explaining the battles, all done by lighting, the sounds of war as the story unfolded made it very real.
Our evening was spent with a 45 minute Metro ride into downtown Washington to view the Lincoln memorial in floodlit splendour, the Capitol and the needle of the Washington memorial dowsed in ghostly light.
We made the journey back downtown next morning to explore some of the museums and galleries, the unusual brick of the Smithsonian centre, which is the home since 1958 of the world famous Hope Diamond, original uncut weight of 112 carats, present weight 45 carats it is said to be cursed, owner Evalyn Mc Lean had a lifetime of tragedy, it still has a value of 8 million dollars. an instructive Imax theatre in the Space museum showed astronauts filming in outer space. We took a walk around the beautiful Botanical gardens, always an interest to me working in the horticulture field. This is my last night staying with my friend Harry, a good excuse to go out and have a farewell drink or three and a nice meal.
My journey on next morning started at an early hour of 5.30 am taking the Metro to Union St. downtown in time to catch a familiar Greyhound bus heading for Columbia in South Carolina , we had a lady driver who proved to be very capable in controlling the large bus , the scenery was very lush with lots of crops ripe for harvest, occasional bush country and many lovely small towns . The lady passenger in the next seat came from Orange, Texas I learnt a lot about the history and customs of the south people, also the style of cooking which sounded quite tasty. I changed buses at Charlotte for the last two hours of my journey to the inland city of Columbia.
My dear friends Dottie and Kathy were there to meet me, (I had met these ladies on a tour through Scandinavia) To my horror I discovered my suitcase was missing, a search by the bus company proved fruitless, Dottie was not amused at their slackness and used her power, her late husband was a very important citizen of Columbia, soon there was action all round. I was staying with Dottie and was told they would inform me as soon as the case was located. Keeping their word, the following night the phone rang around midnight to say it would arrive within the hour, some inexperienced porter had not read the label properly and took it off the bus at a smaller town along the way. I had borrowed some fresh clothes from one of Dottie’s neighbours; otherwise I would have been a little smelly.
Next morning, after a tour around the city I joined the ladies on a drive to beautiful old Charlestown in Dottie’s shiny new huge car. Located on the South Carolina coastline was founded around 1770, it was also known as “The Holy City” due to the prominence of many churches. Today there is an abundance of beautifully restored historical mansions, owned by slave planters of rice and indigo. At one time the city was the fourth largest in America with a population of 11,000, nearly half of who were slaves. The interesting old marketplace was situated where slaves were bought and sold, now has many hundreds of craft shops, mostly run by Negro woman who still have the culture and skills of old Africa. A two-hour city tour taught me a lot of the cities history, plus visits to some of the lovely old mansions, a noticeable spectacle was very large verandas on the sides of the buildings so not to pay huge taxes for road frontages.
That evening I was invited to the ladies friends home for dinner, Hal & Charlotte were also on the Scandinavia tour but through sickness had to leave it early. Their beautiful white mansion with a huge pillared veranda was set among lovely gardens down a country lane; they had their own-labelled wines from a large vineyard close by. A delicious meal was served; I hope I succeeded in acting the perfect gentleman to their hospitality.
After a nice breakfast in downtown Columbia and bid my farewells to the ladies I was on a southbound Greyhound bus to St.Augustine in Florida. The route took along main roads, not freeways firstly back to Charlestown, then south through many small towns and rich farmland, this changed to marshlands and tropical scenery as we neared the Florida border. The first large city was Jacksonville, all high rises, I’m happy I decided on St.Augustine as this place was an enjoyment, a beautiful seaside city, the nations oldest, most charming and also known as “the Ancient City”. It basks in year round mild near perfect climate. The delightful historical downtown cobbled district was alive with quaint cafes, pubs, unique shops, and art and gift surprises. My lovely Spanish style hotel was in keeping with the town’s beauty. I had time to visit the museum of “Ripley’s believe it or not”, with it’s bizarre and unusual artefacts on display, incredible illusions and an interactive gallery. I also found “The Fountain of Youth”, ( never did me much good), a large crocodile farm didn’t excite me much.. That evening I enjoyed a delicious seafood platter, a few beers and nice white wine.
On the road again, this will be my last Greyhound bus trip, a brand new one at that. Miami, here I come. there was a change at Orlando, (wish I had the time to visit Disney world) but my time had nearly expired. Miami is spread out for many miles of beautiful coastland; finally we crossed into Beach Island where my hotel was. I was anxious to book in and get out to explore the golden sands that seemed to go on forever. That evening I enjoyed a lovely meal in an unusual restaurant, the tables with chairs were actually placed in classic sports cars cut in half and set along the walls, all shiny and brightly coloured. I contacted Vickie, one of the two girls I previously met on a canal cruise in the south of France, we made arrangements to meet the day after tomorrow for a tour around Miami.
Next morning I decided on an organised tour of the city and a boat cruise around the islands that make up the beach area. Sadly this was the worst organised tour I have ever experienced, starting an hour late, there was little commentary in English, but lots of Spanish, (it was to be an English speaking tour) It didn’t take me long before I was having a heated discussion with the guide concerning the vast amount of Spanish he was speaking, soon the majority of the tourists were getting what they paid for. I enjoyed the boat cruise, it showed me how the very wealthy had such a wonderful lifestyle with great sea views and relaxing living in their huge mansions.
My friends Vickie and Debbie came to my hotel to join me for a meal in a very popular Japanese restaurant, then on to some trendy bars around the south end of Miami to enjoy my favourite beer.
Next morning, after a refreshing swim in the tepid ocean, my friends Vickie and Debbie arrived to take me on a sightseeing tour of Miami through the eyes of locals. Our first stop was for a walk along the exhilarating strip of the art décor area of South Beach, a mile of hotels, beautifully preserved buildings of the 30’s and 40’s era, a handbook of the street history was a great help. a visit to Coconut Grove showed lovely homes of the middle class people. Vickie took us to visit the yacht, which she and her husband called home, they do a lot of cruising around the Bahamas, what a lovely lifestyle. A visit to the Venetian pools beautifully set among brilliant waterfalls and lots of mosaic tiling. When it was close to sunset, we found a pub and enjoyed a daiquiri, which is rum based with lots of blended strawberries, very strong, very nice. I enjoyed the brilliant fiery glow of the setting sun. Next a great steak meal and a huge slice of mud pie, soon it was time to say goodbye to my friends, thanking them for a wonderful tour of this vibrant city.
After a final swim, it was time to pack up and start the long journey home to New Zealand, I had booked a shuttle bus to the airport, to my surprise a stretch limo called to collect me and a lady. My minute of fame was soon shattered as the uniformed chauffeur lifted the boot lid to allow me to struggle with the ladies suitcases and mine, I guess it was worth the classy ride to the airport. The reverse pattern was staged, the chauffeur holding open the boot to allow me to struggle once again with the heavy cases, then an outstretch hand was thrust towards us more or less demanding his tip, I portrayed my answer in my best kiwi fashion leaving behind a bewildered driver.
Alas I was feeling a little depressed knowing than another wonderful holiday was about to come to an end, soon I was aboard a Delta flight from Miami to Atlanta, then a change for my ongoing flight to Los Angelus, and my connection to the Air N.Z. D.C. 10 service to Auckland. I was shocked back to reality when listening to fellow kiwi passengers talk, having been used to Americans and Canadians talking over the last few weeks. I new that I was headed home to start the procedure of saving for another fabulous holiday somewhere.
Till my next venture
Cheers
JIM.F.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Poetry. Storm

Storm
Flashes of light dance across a sky so black
Clouds explode with an almighty crack
That was yesterday, now blue skies are in contrast
With a green canopy of treetops, a desirable forecast

A leisure hike through bush tracks today
With pathways marked to guide all the way
The huge trees stand in upright splendour
No sun to be seen, thick foliage galore

There are no snakes or spiders that mattered
Fantails darted and wild pigs scattered
Shy little kiwis are like large puffballs
The white-throated tuis made occasional calls

A bright flash I saw, then a thunderous roar
A tree came crashing to the forest floor
Light was showing where the tree had once been
Now rain was heavy, a upsetting scene

More flashes of lightening, a scary outlook
Next an ear piercing clap, the whole forest shook
My clothes were now wet, no coat nor hat
So this is summer, I really doubt that

The storm recharged many times, that was weird
Forrest floor all slushy as water appeared
Rabbits scurried and birds made a tweet
I’m thoroughly soaked from my head to my feet

The track markers are gone, and now I’m lost
Also cold and wet, feels like frost
I took shelter in a huge hollow log
Hopefully I’ll be found in this watery bog

Thoughts of a cosy fire, maybe a hot drink
Waiting for rescue, I’ve time to think
Hours later, now the sun has shone
The lightening, thunder and rain are all gone

Well, what’s this, a marker to show?
The guideline that I needed to know
I’m saved; I don’t need help to find my way out
Deliriously happy, I started to shout

Following the markers, now easy to see
I’ll soon be home, a nice place to be
How fast a storm comes, that’s hard to digest
Could have been worse, but maybe less stressed
Now back home in my own cosy den
I dream of more hikes but just don’t know when
Checking the forecast will be my first deed
To make sure it is safe is what I’ll read

Monday, July 16, 2007

Overses Travel. England & Europe 1981





England and Europe. 1981

Another exciting venture is looming, I decided to take my mother-in-law Emily Baine with me to England so she can spend some time with her son Kerry and daughter-in-law Angela. Since the death of her husband Jack, the family thought it would be a nice change to enjoy some overseas travel. This is her first time away from New Zealand and my third. A gathering of friends and relations were at the airport to bid us farewell for our long journey, our plane was an Air N.Z. D.C.10, the first stop being at Honolulu which took just over seven hours, just for refuelling, then on to Los Angeles, then a couple of hours wait till we boarded the plane once again for England. The ruling with Air N.Z was the planes could travel on from L.A. but with a British Airways crew. The service proved a bit disorganised after the splendid crew of Air.N.Z. My mother-in-law, Emily, was quite stressed out after the long journey and was relieved to finally reach our destination, Heathrow, and meet with her son.
It was pleasing to see Kerry & Angela at the airport, also my friend Keith Bougher and his girl friend, only spending a brief time with him and made arrangements to stay on my return from Europe. We all caught the train to Kilburn in London where Kerry & Angela’s had their studio flat, it was difficult for Emily to climb the steep stairway to the third floor, this has been a culture shock for her away from her quiet lifestyle in the small country town of Te Aroha.
Enjoying a happy family reunion plus a sample of my duty free Rum I soon discovered that sleep was overcoming my desire to continue so it was off to bed, it had been many hours since I last slept.
Next morning I sorted out my luggage, said my goodbyes and caught the tube to Kingscross Station where I boarded the Flying Scotsman Express, the journey passed through lovely countryside bursting with signs of Spring everywhere, cities like Nottingham, Shefield, Leads and landmarks like the York Cathedral. then onto my destination, Newcastle-on-Tyne. My friend Harry Letch was waiting for me, after an exciting reunion he took me to his home he shared with his sister Muriel in the coal-mining town of Birtley. The terraced house was among row upon row of identical style and colour, it would be very hard to find his place without a street and number to guide you. Muriel had prepared a lovely late luncheon, which we all toasted in a wee dram of rum.
Off to view the sights, our first destination was to Durham particularly the huge Cathedral and University on a hill dominating the city. Climbing the tower of the cathedral was quite a major event but the view of the city was amazing and rewarding, people boating on the river were like tiny ants, splashes of colour everywhere which proved to be the first flowering of hundreds of roses.
The return trip took us through” the moors” country and the quaint village of Blanchland. That evening I met the locals and friends at Harry’s favourite Buffs Club, I was not very fond of their room temperature beer so I decided on the cold lager which was very palatable at .42 pence a pint. I don’t think I would attempt to keep up the pace of the locals.
Next morning, Harry and I started on a journey north to Scotland, time first to explore the local area driving through quaint country lanes and small villages, we found an interesting factory called “ De La Rue” which mints the New Zealand bank notes. Our next stop was the small town of Richmond, with its cobbled narrow streets, lovely little cottages; the high steeple of the church was the centrepiece. Travelling west we passed through many kilometres of Mooreland country, very baron, stone fences winding over the landscape had probably been there for many centuries. Next the Lake district, very picturesque country, very busy with lots of tourists and locals enjoying the clear air and beauty. Stopping in at a pretty little village called Cockermouth, we found a bed and breakfast place for the night and then explored the town, and were delighted to find the house where the poet Wordsworth was born, and learned all about this famous man from the historical museum. time to sample some of the fine products and a pub meal.
After a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs we were back on the road again, still going north, the first stop was Carlyle after taking a short detour to Keswick to view some beautiful scenery at Derwent waters, climbed into the surrounding hills for a better look. Moving on to the Dumfries via the very popular tourist attraction of Gretna Green, which used to cater for young people who wanted to marry but in England they needed their parents permission but not here. A close up view of highland cattle with their long hair and curly horns reminded me that we were approaching Robbie Burns’s country. We passed through many delightful small towns, all with lots of historical bridges, ancient buildings and cobbled streets; there was a fitting memorial to Burns in the shape of a tower domineering the corner of two streets. Our stop for the night was Ayrshire coastal town of Largs. Took a stroll around the waterfront in the warm summer sunshine with it’s many small craft silhouetting the lovely old buildings and a huge church steeple, decided that we had earned a wee drop of ale and a meal of good old fashioned fish and chips in a pub overlooking the sea, then on to another pub where there was lots of entertainment, it was a “ come as you please” night which I was told meant you could get up and sing or tell a story. We enjoyed the company of some local Scots but never attempted to keep up with their drinking habits.
After a hearty breakfast Harry and I left the coast and headed towards Glasgow, then Edinburgh, it was great taking smaller main roads as we passed through many lovely small towns and villages, lots of rolling barren countryside with very few trees. We bypassed Glasgow and arrived in Edinburgh in glorious sunshine, I was told it rains often there but this was my second visit, both in glorious weather. We are now in the capital of Scotland, an outstanding city, rich in open spaces, museums, beautiful buildings and elegant streets. The older part has dark courts, cobbled streets and steep steps of the medieval ‘Old Town” in contrast with the gracious squares and crescents of the Georgian ‘ New Town” with the Castle overlooking the beautiful gardens and Scott’s Memorial beside Princes St., the exciting main shopping area. We took a tour of the Castle; this gave me a chance to catch up on what I had missed on my last visit.
It was time to head back to New Castle, back over familiar roads, only one stop, Bamburgh Castle by the sea, a Norman Castle revamped in the 18th/19th century, has collections of porcelain and armoury. Its vast size was built on a rise overlooking the sea. Arriving back to Harry’s home, this time via the Tyne tunnel, an experience quite remarkable, going under the Tyne River for about a mile. Just in time to meet with friends at the club and say goodbye as we catch a flight to Amsterdam tomorrow.
Awoke to the shock of light snow falling, this is mid April, suppose to be into spring? We caught the bus to New Castle airport for our British Caledonian flight to Amsterdam, just a 50 minute flight. The amazing sight, endless fields of tulips and daffodils like a patchwork quilt greeted our approach to Holland. After booking into a hotel we strolled around the quaint streets of Amsterdam, trees bursting with blossom and lovely Old Dutch style buildings reflecting into the many canals. Of course one needed to sample the delectable flavour of the Heineken beer, I wasn’t disappointed. We both suffered from a balance problem and a bit dizzy, (that’s before the beer) I found out later the plane was not pressurized enough. I think the beer help reverse our balance to near normal.
A lovely morning with clear blue skies, we caught the train to Köln, I had a Euro rail pass which I started on the German border, soon we were passing through lovely green countryside, then beside the massive Rhein River and disembarked to explore the impressive Gothic Köln Cathedral of St. Peter & Mary, started in 1248 and finally completed in 1880, it is the landmark to the city, narrowly missing being bombed during the second world war. The interior was equally beautiful with lovely stained glass windows, a huge alter behind which is the gold and jewelled shrine of the Three Kings. Köln is the most ancient and busiest city in Rheinland and fourth largest in Germany. Our train timetable only allowed us two hours to explore the bustling city, with it’s many grand shops and small bars everywhere. Time to continue our journey so we were back on the train; next stop Koblenz, our base for the night. Built on the confluence of the Rhein and Mosel rivers, giving the town access to both river regions. The old Promenade of the city is tree shaded and studded with pavement
Cafes, a special feature is the Weindorf (wine village), first built for a wine exhibition in 1926 and now permanently popular with three wine houses surrounding a square with wooden benches and tables set beneath mature shade trees. Among the buildings of historical interest to be seen in Koblenz was the old 13th century Castle which now houses the city library, also the Baroque Rathaus (town hall) I found a wonderful shop full of my favourites, beer steins, a collection so huge, I just loved them all. On our return to our hotel there was a dusting of light snow, how the climates change so rapid in Europe.
The morning dawned to clear skies but a little fresh, after a delicious German breakfast the train left Koblenz for our destination Mainz, following the Rhine again we were soon in wine country, vineyards stretched for miles clinging to the hillsides to catch the sun. Mainz is a University City, built on the fork of the Rivers Rhein and Mainz, it has an ancient history, the most imposing sight is the 1000-year-old Romanesque Cathedral, which houses an impressive collection of church art. A walk toward the rivers was where we could view the busy traffic on the waterways, lots of huge barges chugging their way up and down carrying all sorts of produce.
Back on the train again on our way to Würzburg in Bayern (Bavaria). The scenery was simular, lots more vineyards and many castles dot the hillsides along our route. Arriving early afternoon, Würzburg proved to be a lively city with an ancient history, built on either side of the Main, in a valley, dominated by the Marienberg Fortress. The main attraction The city is famous for it’s wonderful architecture, places like Residenz, the grandest Baroque Palace in Europe, it is built in the form of a huge horseshoe with four inner courtyards and one reception court, then the Käppele (a pilgrimage church) the Cathedral of Kilian, plus the Chronos Fountain with it’s wonderful statues. We enjoyed the smaller city, had found some excellent accommodation and were able to explore these wonderful building at a leisure pace, finally deciding on a small restaurant to enjoy a delicious meal of Schweinaschnitzel (pork) and some equally delicious larger beer.
We decided to stay on another night so as to do a side trip to Bamberg, so next morning we caught a slower train which stopped at all stations, I would have loved to get off and view some of the quaint little villages and towns, the paddocks were mostly ploughed ready for sowing summer crops. Bamberg is situated in river and hillside country and is a city with some very fine architecture. The Rathhaus (town hall) was an interesting Gothic and Rococo combination, with murals and carvings of statues on the walls, unusually located on a bridge across the River Regnitz, connecting the two halves of the town, (the bridge actually passes right the hall), The four spired Romanesque Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George is much admired for it’s grandeur and holds many artistic treasures. Among the many fine buildings clustered about the cathedral is the Old Residence of the princes-bishops, now housing a historical museum. Bamberg was truly a photographers dream, every turn was a new masterpiece to be taken, beautiful half-timbered houses, highly ornamented and sculptured buildings lined the waterways. On our return to Würzburg we made plans to move on in the morning.
Still remarkably fine and warm, an early morning train took us to Regensburg via Nürnberg, It is the principle city of East Bayern, situated on the Donau River, the first stop was to view St. Peters Cathedral, one of Germanys greatest Gothic churches, it’s 105m towers are much admired for their delicate stonework and stained glass windows. The Rathaus (Town Hall) is most famous for it’s Reichstagssaal, where holy Roman Emperors, including Charles V have sat. On the ground floor is a gruesome medieval torture chamber where judges sat to extract “voluntary confessions”, nowadays, however there’s a friendly Ratskeller (wine cellar).
Back on the train again, our next port of call is Passau, this beautiful city built on the fork of the Inn and Donau Rivers. Another very fascinating city, with narrow cobbled streets of various levels, quaint old houses built into the riverbanks, many of which were joined together by decorative arches. There was a beautiful stone bridge, which was completed in 1146 and has 16 arches; a walk across it gave impressive views of Regensburg skyline. Along Bridge St. there were lots of interesting shops selling pewter ware. Our evening meal was another tasty German veal dish with many fruits and vegetables, all washed down with some also very tasty larger beer.
Back on the train again, travelling through more vineyards and market gardens, we were on our way to wonderful München, via the interesting town of Landshut which I would have loved to explore but there was now a time factor. We arrived at München early afternoon and by some fluke I managed to find the same Pension I had stayed in three years earlier, the proprietor even recognised me, amazingly he looked up my name without me giving any details. Harry’s comments were “once seen, never forgotten” We are in Germany’s third largest city, the Bavarian capitol, art and culture along with its famous beer industry. The new Rathaus (town hall) in 19th century Gothic style covers the north side of Marienplatz which is for pedestrians only and has many lovely fountains, cafes, a marble column topped by a magnificent statue of the Madonna, originally intended for the high alter of the cathedral plus lots of flowers. Its main feature is the ornate Glockenspiel, at 11am each day, animated colourful dancing figures emerge from the clock, bells tinkle and tunes play. We did a city tour to get acquainted with places of interest, then went back to admire the beautiful architecture of mostly restore buildings. The city is full of old squares and odd and interesting corners. A stroll in the lovely English garden with its beautiful old mature trees and beds of colourful flowers and lots of statues.
This was the last night Harry and I had together as he is heading back to England via Heidelberg and I’m moving on to Basel in Switzerland, then travelling on to Toulouse in France to take a weeks canal cruise on a barge. We found a wonderful old beer barn and enjoyed some equally wonderful steins of Bavarian beer along with a hearty meal of boiled pork, sauerkraut with klösse (dumplings). We both found our rail euro pass was very convenient and we used it to our advantage being able to visit many different cities and towns throughout our journey, It was very sad to say goodbye to my good friend, he had been a great host whilst I was in England, luckily we enjoyed the same scenery and history, and of course our love of a beer or two, now I have another new adventure to look forward to.
Awoke to light snow again but it wasn’t cold, We both caught the train to Stuttgart where we said a final farewell, Harry heading north and myself booking my journey to Toulouse, which seemed quite complicated, so many changes, so many stops, I had little trouble changing trains at Karlsruhe, even though there was but one minute to change tracks for the train to Geneva. It passed through some beautiful picturesque rugged Swiss countryside. Arriving at Geneva about nine p.m. I was soon on my connecting train to Narbonne in France, then a last connection for a six-hour overnight journey to my destination, Toulouse, France. There were passport checks at the borders which were no problem, arriving at the end of my journey at the horrible hour of 5.30am after no sleep, I was cold, hungry and tired but it was too early for places to open, I left my luggage at a locker at the station and went out to enjoy the lovely sunny morning that was dawning to explore the city which is the biggest and most important town of the south west. There were many well-preserved houses of the renaissance period. An outstanding place of interest was the basilica of St. Sernin, rich in Christian relics. The remains of 128 saints include those of some of the Apostles; the most sacred relic was a thorn from the crown of the Crucifixion. I wandered down a number of tiny back streets with barely enough room to pass, admired the nice old buildings with lovely latticework frontages. Being in bad need of a shower and change of clothes I was pleased when it was time to meet up with the Canal Barge cruise staff and fellow passengers for the week long slow trip among the picturesque countryside.
We all met at the Hotel Concorde, four cruise staff, all English and Walsh, six other passengers, who were Americans, after introductions and explanations of what our itinerary was to be we were taken by bus to our barge home for the next week. Luckily I had a cabin to myself, very tiny but okay, there was a lovely dining room and bar, two viewing decks where you could sit and watch the scenery go passed. We started cruising at 6 pm. travelling through three locks before tying up for the night. I was able to enjoy a well-needed shower and change of clothes before joining the fellow passengers for a welcome drink and our first meal, a lavish spread of tasty meats and salads, along with many cheese and snack food. The table wines were included in the price and we were told that if we managed to drink all on board we would have our fare refunded, (what a challenge)
It was great to enjoy a good sleep in a bed again instead of leaning on the window of a train; I guess trying to drink the barge dry would have helped a little. The barge started up again after a wonderful breakfast of a huge rang of French delights, my fellow passengers, five ladies and one man were from different parts of America, we soon become good friends, here to enjoy this marvellous holiday together. The sun was shining and starting to warm up for the day so we all tried out the sundeck to watch the changing landscape go by and were soon experiencing something unusual, instead of the long drawn out dilemma of going through a series of five locks, the barge took the easy way out, they called it the water spout where two motorized wheels guides take the barge to a drop of forty feet riding as if on the top of a wave, an amazing experience. There are walkways alongside the canal and cycles on board for the energetic; it is easy to keep up as the barge travels very slowly.
Tim, our skipper suggested he take us by (the mini bus that followed the barge) into the small French village of Montech, there was a very old and huge church for the size of the village, I had a chance to explore the cobbled streets, enjoy the unusual styles of red brick houses and old barns where there was rows of corn neatly hanging on rails to dry.
Back on the barge again in time for happy hour, I enjoyed my first beer for three days, not quite up to the standard of the German lagers but still refreshing. Our cook excelled again in producing some wonderful French cuisine; starting with the usual large arrangement of cheeses and crackers, hot meats and vegetables, finishing with a tasting sweet. had another try at drinking the barge dry, I think they gave us too much lovely food to slow down my attempt.
Today is May Day, 1st May, we call it Labour Day, everyone has a holiday including the lock keepers so the barge is tied up, we all opted for a tour to Albi in the mini bus, travelling through some very lush farmlands, orchards and fields with summer crops just about ready for harvest. The first stop was Montauban, a medium sized town standing at the foot of the Bas-Quercy Hills, it is a centre for fruit trade, and during summer free samples are given away to visitors. . The local brick is a delicate pink and many of the old monuments are built with it making them very colourful for photography. Moving on, we passed through Gaillac, there was a fair there so we joined in, lots of local produce, jewellery, ornaments and clothes at great prices. Time for lunch our driver found a lovely spot by a river just outside the town, our cook had come along to set out the huge platters of delicious meats, cheeses and crusty breads. Panic struck the camp, the cook had forgotten the wine, so everything was on hold while the bus made a fast trip to buy some, returning with two bottles each, heh!! This only lunchtime?
Carrying on our tour we were now passing through wine growing areas, then our destination, Albi, a fortified town with a long history, its most famous painter son is Toulouse-Lautrec, the local museum there contains the best selection of his works. The cathedral is a remarkable example of a fortified religious building, a vast edifice of brick.
Our return was by a different route and took in much more wonderful scenery of vineyards, market gardening and orchards. Dinner was another masterpiece, the sweet was an unusual pear pie, or was it the red wine changing the flavour? Our little group finished off the evening with a few rounds of cards, a pleasant way to enjoy each other’s company.
Awoke to the sound of our engine and discovered the barge was already moving, a large section of the canal was to be closed next day so we needed to do a longer journey, the weather is rather cool and overcast but cosy inside watching the scenery, mature trees lined the canal and every now and then there was a colourful display of wild flowers lining the pathway, where many cyclists and joggers passed us by, as I said the barge travelled very slow. We stopped at a small village called Moissac, it had started to rain and the local markets were finished but we were able to explore the beautiful old 12th century church of De L’abbatiale, the inside is painted in different designed tile affects. Back on board the rain was getting heavier so I stayed in the saloon and enjoyed the abundance of vineyards, small villages and quaint little cottages that lined the canal. The barge finally tied up for the night, it was now raining heavily so our group decided on starting “happy hour” a little earlier, our cook obliged with an assortment of snacks to prepare us for a lovely quail meal cooked to perfection with a very tasty gravy, a chocolate mouse for sweets and lots of red wine. With very little exercise I developed some uncomfortable indigestion, I was out of tummy settlers so I spent a disturbing night.
The morning was still overcast so I decided to go into the nearby village and try for a digestive remedy, with many charades of my complaint no shopkeepers seem to understand my problem, they must have thought I was tasking a fit, finally a chemist smiled, hopefully understanding my dilemma and gave me some aniseed liquid, it worked almost immediately, what a relief! Still time to explore the lovely village, I never tire of the quaint cottages and the churches in the town centres. The barge chugged slowly on, though it had stopped raining it was still quite chilly, now we passed through an industrial area which spoilt the usual scenic vista of lush trees and flowers but that soon passed and it was time to tie up for a luncheon stop and a leg stretch. I found a very old villa hidden among the trees, worthy of some photography, then another small village and large church. Travelling on we passed over a large Aqua-duct, (the canal crosses over a river), amazing, who would have thought of doing that? then the slow process of passing through five locks, by this time it was close to happy hour so we tied up for the night., gorging ourselves on another delicious meal, by now I have slowed up on the complimentary wine, don’t think I have a chance to drink the barge dry..
Next morning our faithful little bus that has followed us all the way took us for a another scenic journey through some very picturesque countryside, orchards of peaches, apricots and much more grape vines, a small village dating back to the 12th century and a beautiful stone bridge, then a detour back to the barge for lunch, then back on the bus for a tour of Agen, the centre for exploring the Dordogne and the vineyards of the Bordeaux area. The winding narrow streets have many medieval houses, some combined into a museum. The cathedral is 11th century, quite a plain looking structure, there were some really old houses lining the river, built like a solid wall and jutting out over the water.
This evening is the last one of a wonderful relaxing barge holiday, the staff helped us celebrate and joined us in a wonderful farewell dinner, a huge variety of temptations to choose from, diet starts tomorrow, maybe.
I packed up my luggage, enjoyed a hearty breakfast, then Tim took us all to the railway station in Agen, I decided to join two of the American ladies on a side journey to the walled city of Carcassonne, before catching the train for my return trip to Germany for a cruise of the Rhine River.
Catching the train back to Toulouse we caught the express that passed close to Carcassonne, then a taxi to this fascinating town, serene and ageless, it lies in a vast hollow between the foothills of the Cevennes and Pyrenees, a historical wonder of France, with it’s centre surviving in, or lovingly restored to it’s pristine glory, as created between the 9th and 13th century. The massive walls, forts, keeps and storehouses give a vivid idea of what life was like in the troublesome dark ages. Ann, Betty and I explored the narrow cobbles streets; many quaint old houses have been converted into touristy shops. Soon it was time for me to depart on the next leg of my journey, just time for a farewell drink and I was back on an express train to Narbbone where there was a four hour wait for a connecting train to Basel in Switzerland. I left at the horrible hour of midnight; luckily to fill in the time I had the company of two English folk who were travelling on the same train. There were no spare seats so I had to be content in standing in the passageway, with my head against the window trying to sleep, a crazy idea so I just swallowed my pride and lay down on the floor to rest my legs. Time passes so slowly when you’re not having fun, sometime in the early hours the train stopped and a whole compartment left so I immediately took it over, pulled down the blinds and turned the lights out, stretching out on the seats I soon fell into a deep sleep, awaking with a start to notice daylight had arrived, I turned around and to my amazement there was a very dark skinned fellow with a crop of black curly hair sitting opposite me, I nodded and thought it was no use trying to have a conversation with him, I was also mad at myself for letting my guard down , having my face to the back of the seat, I could have ended up with a knife in my shoulder blades. After a while my fellow passenger said, use me, “do you speak English?” in an accent far more polished than mine. As it turned out my impression of him was soon altered when he told me he worked at his fathers Hotel in Morocco as an interpreter and was on his way to Norway for a skiing holiday. Arriving finally in Geneva after passing some very beautiful scenery of snow covered mountains, lush valleys and tiny villages.
At last my train journey was ended at Basel around 11 am, I felt a little shattered but needed to fill in the day till I can board the Rhine River cruise around 5 pm. After finding out which tram to take to the barge, I put my case in a station locker and ventured out to explore the city. There was a mixture of Swiss, German and French styles of buildings; I could hear a mixture of assorted languages. I managed to fill in the time with enjoying a delicious huge meal; the air was crisp so hot food was what I needed.
Time to join the Rhine Cruise, I booked in and was given my cabin number, I was told I needed to share with three other people. When I saw the size of the cabin I wondered how four people could possibly survive in such cramped space, besides I wasn’t very happy about having to sleep in close quarters with others. There was no sign that anyone else had been in the cabin, I had thoughts that it would be wonderful if no one turned up. After a well needed shower and change of clothes, there was a “welcome on board” by the crew serving some lovely wines and nibbles. I relaxed in the bar with a few great German beers, and then enjoyed a delicious evening meal. Before joining the passengers for entertainment in the main reception I took a look in my cabin to see if anyone had arrived, not a soul, great. maybe they were on board and hadn’t taken their luggage down yet. At this stage I decided to stop thinking about my sleeping conditions or my whole cruise would be ruined. After an enjoyable evening of entertainment I was pleased to retire to my cabin, (only me) I had booked a bus tour for next day. What happens the barge stops and you join the tour which takes you to places further along the river and then you get back on the barge,
After an agreeable breakfast I relaxed and took in all the wonderful scenery as the cruise slowly plied the busy river, passing many other barges, including ones used for carrying all sorts of merchandise, plus lots of small craft. The shores were dotted with lovely little towns, always a church steeple, lots of castles were scattered along the hillsides. It was the Captains Champagne party in the afternoon, Anna Marie, our hostess for the cruise called for all different countries to make themselves known, she gave a greeting to them all in their own language.
We docked at Mannheim, Europe’s second largest river port, I did a walking tour of the city but not a lot of beauty, called into a few quaint pubs and enjoyed the entertainment, I returned to the boat and joined the company of a group of American Tourist Agents, lots of laughs and a few Löwenbraü beers.
Next morning I was up early for exercisers on the top deck with Anna Marie, then while enjoying a hearty breakfast the boat was underway again. I settled for the rear of the boat to enjoy the abundance of castles along the hillsides surrounded with row upon row of grape vines. No sooner had I settled and it was time for lunch, a splendid spread, (wow, where am I putting all this lovely food). Late afternoon we docked at Köln (Cologne). I have already written about this city when I visited it with my friend Harry but now I can give a different account of the nightlife. Our Hostess Anna Marie, chose the American tourist agents, a Swiss chap and me to join her in a pub visit in the older quarters of the city. The entertainment changed from each place, lots of singing, dancing and there seemed to an endless Prost, (cheers) among the patrons. A most enjoyable night out, the beer was good also.
The morning session of fitness had already started when I reached the top deck; maybe I was a little hung over? Another hearty breakfast and it was back to admiring the passing scenery. We seemed to be into more open country now, with a rural flavour, this is my last day on board so I must take in as much of the beauty that surrounds me.
The cruise ended at Njmegan in Holland where I said goodbye to the many friends I made on this wonderful experience, you have a totally different outlook from travelling by bus or train. I caught a bus to the city of Amsterdam where I had started my European holiday with Harry; this took ages, as there was a large marathon in progress. Finally I made my way to the railway station where I caught a train to the Hook of Holland for an overnight ferry passage back to England. It was a smooth crossing, I found a comfy chair in the snooze lounger and surprisingly I managed a few hours sleep.
The Ferry docked at six a.m. I managed to catch a train to London, surprising how different the countryside differed from Europe, noticing fences and animals, road signs in English, plus everyone talking it. . Next was the underground train to visit my brother-in-law and sister-in-law, Kerry and Angela’s home. Great to see them again, it seems ages since I had first arrived in England. Kerry and I enjoyed a few nice beers at a local pub, then Angela joined us for a delicious Chinese meal.
Next morning while Kerry and Angela were at work I explored the area of Kilburn where they live, managed to confirm my on going flight to Singapore. and enjoy some good old-fashioned English shopping, checking out many streets of old mansions and terraced houses. I met Kerry after he finished work, he took me to a lovely Irish pub for a farewell drink which I was enjoying until he told me this pub had been blown up two years previous by the I.R.A., now I kept looking over my shoulder.
After collecting my suitcase and said my goodbyes I caught the underground train to stay with my friends, Keith and Juleen, Keith and I had worked together a few years ago and it will be great to catch up with him again.
I am now a confirmed expert at catching trains around London, Keith was at the station to meet me, the first thing to do back at his very nice, near new flat was to sample some huge 2.2 lt cans of beer, not bad, Juleen cooked a lovely roast dinner with all the trimmings, and lots of very nice wine. There were many years of things to talk about, the wine helping to remember some of the past happy times.
Morning in this very quiet urban area was quite a change, so after breakfast they took me for a drive into some lovely English countryside, down tree lined, narrow country lanes, small villages and always a pub or two which needed to be explored, they all seem to have individual charm, most with their own history. A favourite one I chose was beside a canal, the decor was rich and ornate, so was the Turkey pie and salad for lunch.
All too soon it was time to return and collect my luggage and get to the airport for my journey home. More goodbyes, not even a chance for a farewell drink at the airport as the bars there work the same rules as pubs, close at 3 pm and reopen at 5.30 pm. My Air N.Z. flight was to take me to Singapore via short stops at Zurich and Dubai in Arabia. There was a chance to buy duty free goods at Dubai, everything was so cheap, I had doubts if they were genuine, bottles of top grade spirits were as little as $7, gold and precious stones also had low price tags, I bought a lovely multi-coloured rug and a few trinkets.
On arrival at Singapore I managed to catch a bus into the city and soon found my pre-booked hotel, Ming Court, it was very warm after Europe, about 30 degs. C and high humidity. My beautifully decorated huge room at the hotel made up for the nights I tried to sleep standing up in trains. Now, the first thing I needed to do was find a tailor who had been recommended to me, this wasn’t hard to do, and I was soon being measured up for 10 assorted shirts, four pairs of dress trousers and a sports coat. This took a while to organise and it was closing time when all was completed, so the tailor and his nephew invited me to join them for a local meal and drinks in their favourite garden bar. This was a wonderful experience, tables were set out among huge trees, the lighting was mostly coloured lanterns, as I walked in I realised I was the only non Asian there, the conversation stopped and everyone stared at me, my friends soon found a seat for us and ordered drinks, then they explained to the people around us I was their invited guest, suddenly the mood changes and everyone was happy again. The beer arrives in huge bottles, a mere trifle of the normal tourist price. The wonderful meal was a mix of many continental dishes, which I enjoyed immensely. After consuming far too much food and drink my friends took me on a late tourist walk around some of the attraction, like the huge white lions/fish with water gushing from their mouth as a centrepiece of a colourful fountain. The city is so clean, and feels safe as there are many families walking around enjoying the cool of the night. I said goodbye to my new friends and caught a taxi back to my luxury bedroom.
I was woken with my phone ringing, it was Air N.Z, telling me my homeward flight has been confirmed and gave me my seat number, this has never happened to me before, there was a sales pitch though, asking me if I would like them to send a limousine to collect me and take me to a reputable shopping complex recommended by the airline, if only they new I was nearly out of funds, anyway I decided to check it out. There were some very good bargains; I did need a new watch, some toys for the grandkids, plus a beautiful gold dipped Singapore orchid brooch for mother.
President Shears of Singapore died and as a respect to him all shops and transport was closed for the afternoon so people could pay their respects to him at the Istana, (residence), where he was lying in state. There was only one way to get around now and that was my two legs so I walked the full length of Orchard Road and back to the lion memorial again and admired the beautiful gardens. The humidity was very high and exertion doesn’t help but I was keen to see all I could, besides I had worked up a giant thirst and deserved some nice cold bottles of Anchor beer.
After a good nights sleep I was keen to get out for more sight seeing, first though was a stop of at the tailors for a fitting, everything looked great, I will be a very smart gentleman all dressed up in my new clothes. I discovered the older part of the city, a huge contrast to the high-rise buildings of downtown. Also the famous and historical Raffles hotel, originally built in 1887, added to many times and completely renovated on around 1980”s. It was taken over by the Japanese during the occupation in World War 11 and used as a transit camp for prisoners of war. It is a very elegant old lady and is still known for its equally famous drink, “ Singapore Sling”. Still some time left so I made my way to the botanical gardens, a cooling change from the concrete jungle. Covering many acres of beautiful lush gardens in full colour, many huge glasshouses of thousands of Singapore Orchids, there is a definite influence in English style pavilions and kiosk’s. I was delayed for a while by a tropical downpour, it was very heavy and soon flooded everywhere, and just as quickly it turned out sunny again and all the water disappeared .The humidity was even greater so it was back to the hotel for me to enjoy the air conditioning and a cool beer.
After a cool shower I lay on the bed for a rest while outside the sun was shining and it would still be very hot. I awake with a start as the doorbell was ringing, a reminder that I had two hours to vacate my room, What! I looked at my watch and it was 10 am , the sun was still shining, but it was next morning, I had slept about fourteen hours, I was told that was because I spent so much time in the severe heat and humidity. Now I needed to pack my bag and quickly go and collect my made to measure clothes and head for the airport. After all the rushing around I was informed there was a delay with my flight, cancelled till next morning, all the passengers were booked into an hotel at the airport at Air N.Z’s expense, served a lovely meal and had an early morning call to go back to the Airport which was utter chaos, rebooking was a marathon task as thousands of people of all nations clambered to find their queues for respective planes, I was told that was usual in this airport but a new ultra modern airport was nearly finished
So ends another wonderful holiday of about five weeks, experiencing many exciting adventures, broadening my knowledge of many countries, eating all sorts of different foods and admiring some most beautiful scenery and many styles of buildings, plus learning lots of history and customs.
Till my next venture, I have enjoyed re-writing this story from my diary, adding more detail and also reliving the whole vacation once again.
Take care
JIM