Sunday, August 5, 2007

O'seas Travel. Canada & U.S.A . Bonanza 1989




Canada and U.S.A. Bonanza. 1989
Somehow I have managed to save enough money for another exciting holiday, this time to enjoy some of America’s great history and scenery, visit old friends and take a Cosmos bus tour of the East Coast of Canada and Quebec
It was a long 11. ½ hour flight to Los Angeles, after a wonderful Bon Voyage Italian dinner with some old friends in Auckland, N.Z.
On arrival I soon found my on-going American Airlines flight to Fort Worth - Dallas in Texas was the terminal next door. It was a sunset flight but soon darkness arrived, as there was a two-hour time difference. With only a few passengers the friendly staff were only too keen to act as mini tour guides, pointing out different cities and towns along the way, plus adding interesting history.
Although it was a late arrival to my hotel I was very keen to get started next morning, firstly to do a three hour bus tour of the city, starting with a drive around the business area of downtown set among a multitude of high rise office buildings, and the gleaming slab of the Hyatt Regency Hotel standing beside Reunion Tower topped by a huge Geodesic sphere, then on to West End, styled from old warehouses, now a popular place to eat and study the culture. A most interesting but sad part of the tour was to be on the spot where President John Kennedy was murdered in November 1963, a memorial is a stark and monument erected by the people of Dallas. We passed the Texas stadium on route 183, the gigantic domed arena of the Dallas Cowboys, the most razzamatazz American football team. Passing the John Kennedy Memorial Museum, I was keen to come back to visit after the tour, it offered an audio-visual presentation of his life and assassination called “The Incredible Hours” I enjoyed a stroll around the “Farmers Markets”, a collection of ramshackle tin-roofed stalls where they sell Texas-sized fruit and vegetables, chew tobacco, spit, pick a mean guitar or a playful fight. Old City Park is a great place to picnic on the grass among beautifully restored Victorian houses, old log cabins, an 1886 railway depot, a bandstand, 1900’s shops and an elegant Greek Revival Mansion from 1855.
After a violent storm, which lasted nearly all night, the morning dawned nice and sunny, I caught a Greyhound bus to take me to Memphis, Tennessee, my journey took me through miles of dead straight freeway, broken occasionally by a ranch house, the bus called into many little towns including Little Rock. The scenery started to get more interesting as we neared Tennessee, the contrast of lush green pastures and lots of trees. Arriving in the evening I took a cab to my hotel, this is when the fun started, the driver had never heard of the place, driving all over town trying to find it, finally after some panic on my part at noticing the huge amount showing on the meter, I asked him to stop while I asked a gas station attendant, luckily he new the problem, the hotel had changed ownership, plus the name from Quality Inn to Park Inn, my driver did compromise by halving the fare.
Everything was closed as it was Independence Day, 4th July, even the hotel dining room, luckily the bus tours were still going so I booked one to Elvis Presley’s Gracelands. A place I was very interested to visit, being the same age as the king and I had grown up in the era of his music. The tour headed straight for “Gracelands”, the mansion home of E.P. built on a lush rolling 14-acre estate with white timbered fences for his beautiful horses it was opened to fans in 1982 and the spirit and taste of the “Rock’n’Roll” king infuse every part Gracelands. A tour of the interior included his living room, music room, which is completely soundproofed including, carpeted ceilings. There was still an old aunt living upstairs. A huge collection of Elvis’s leather and lame^ costumes, plus his trophy building which houses his gold records and awards. The tour takes in the Meditation Gardens where Elvis, his twin brother and members of his family are buried. (One thing that was missing was the digital audio accompanied commentary, which gave the lifetime history as you moved about the property; this was installed for my later visit) Across the road were many shops selling souvenirs, plus the resting place for his two jet planes, which were also open for viewing.
Deciding on an afternoon tour of the city, built on the banks of the Missippippi River, it is the heart of the great Southern hospitality. Beale street, the home of the blues in it’s heyday of the 1920’s had a much more carnival atmosphere with lots of drinking halls, gambling dens, prostitution, voodoo, booming nightclubs, many eating places and lots of pawnshops. We visited the Sun Studio where Elvis made his first recording and some great views of the mighty Mississippi River. The tour ended at the famous Peabody Hotel, a masterpiece of elegant décor and furnishings combined with historical riches. A main attraction at this 120 years old magnificence is the “Duck March”, at precisely 5 pm. daily the ducks leave their roof top duck house come down in the lift and waddle over red carpet to the huge centrepiece fountain in the Hotel foyer and go for a swim. My stay in Memphis was far too short but I vowed to return which I did later.
After missing my first Greyhound bus because the taxi was late, luckily there was another an hour later for my journey to Nashville for a short stop then on to Louisville. Not enough time to explore but this will be another return visit for me one day. The landscape from the bus was quite flat but still nice and green with lots of trees, then the countryside changed to fields of cotton, tobacco and corn. Joining the freeway at Nashville, quite boring until the start of the Kentucky Stud country. Louisville is the home of the annual Kentucky Derby races. A large modern city, it was late so there was not much time for exploring, I did manage a while in the Kentucky Museum of Arts and Crafts, very interesting. Unfortunately these are just overnight stops on my way to New York but at least it gives me some ideas for further holidays.
Greyhound was late again, I caught the bus to Pittsburgh with changes at Cincinnati and Columbus, There seemed to be delays everywhere, no one seamed to be in a hurry. At least the scenery was lovely, still lots of lovely trees, flat and lush, then on to rolling countryside, an unusual entry into Pittsburgh was via a road tunnel to the city centre. Again arriving late, there was no chance at taking a bus tour so it was just a matter of sightseeing on foot, only seeing the usual downtown attractions.
After the usual confusion of deciding which lane to take, I caught the express bus to New York passing back through farming and crop country, then on to forest and rolling hills, enjoyable, but then we took the freeway, which was uninteresting. It was soon obvious that we were getting closer to the “Big Apple” by the huge increase in traffic and the sky was alive with the spectacle of this huge concrete jungle. Arrived in the downtown metropolis via the Lincoln tunnel, which was at least three miles long.
My hotel was close by the central bus station so after checking in I managed to find my bearings around familiar streets names, a multitude of races going about their daily business, as it got dark millions of lights took over, making a fairytale atmosphere. I managed to book a full day bus tour for the next day and arrangements to meet up with fellow members for the Cosmos tour of Canada that starts from my hotel the day after next.
A Grey line tour bus collected me and was soon heading for Greenwich village, then Harlem, Chinatown, Wall Street, a two hour stop at the World Trade Centre, (I was hoping to go up the Empire State Building but it was closed that day) Anyway I was happy to be able to experience the express lift to the 107th floor in just under a minute, then an escalator to the 110th level which was outdoors and gave a panorama 360 degs. magnificent view of New York City. The Trade Centre was started in 1966 and completed in 1973, comprising of two identical towers with a striking entrance of huge silver arches of which I needed to lie on my back to get a photo.
Moving from this spectacular vista we caught a ferry to Liberty Island to enjoy the massive size of the Statue of Liberty, a gift from the French people, stands guard over the entrance to New York harbour. It was erected in 1886. When I arrived on the Island there was a huge crowd, the waiting time to explore this grand old lady was about four hours, a real disappointment as there was only a two hour stop on the tour so I had to be satisfied just admiring it at close quarters. Back on the mainland and downtown Manhattan I was able to catch a glimpse of the Empire State Building at close range, this must have been an amazing piece of architecture, the building is huge, 102 stories, built in 1931, this was during the depression, when completed most of the office space was empty and the building paid it’s taxes from the sightseers
Next morning I met up with fellow passengers for a Cosmos twelve-day bus tour of Canada/Quebec. There were only 30 people taking the tour and it didn’t take very long to make friends with the majority of them. Leaving New York the bus followed the coastline north from N.Y through Massachusetts, to the first stop, Boston. Our tour guide was very informative with history and things to see and do on this trip.
A brief history, Boston was the largest British settlement in north America, a centre of opposition to British trade restrictions, culminating the Boston Tea Party in 1773, today it attracts about ten million tourist per year, many museums and art galleries. The tour bus set us down in Harwood St. to explore the old converted warehouses on narrow cobbles streets; I discovered a small restaurant that served a delicious Clam chowder. We took a city tour in the afternoon to view some of the elegant buildings and have the history explained. A visit for an enactment of the “ Boston Tea Party” on a replica tall ship gave us an interesting display of past history. Boston has a large Irish population who arrived in droves after the 1845 potato famine in Ireland mingling with the Anglo-Saxon descendents of the original settlers, also a large black community with a proud past in Boston as the first freed slaves. The hotel we stayed in was quite a way from the centre of the city, but I managed to find a delightful Irish pub to keep me occupied for the evening.
Next morning was a long journey to Quebec City; travelling north along the picturesque coastline with it’s many huge mansions built in the 1800’s from vast profits from Whaling, on to Hampton Beach, then turning inland through vast logging forests and the Canadian border of Quebec State, where there was a customs check, now into some beautiful scenery and picturesque towns and villages. Noting that many houses has aluminium roofs to help melt the heavy snows of winter.
Arriving in the magnificent city of Quebec the European flavoured Capitol of the province it didn’t take long to notice the French flavoured influence where it is said only 4% of the inhabitants don’t speak French .An interesting bus tour took in the entire cities highlights, firstly the lower town with it’s historical churches, narrow cobbled lanes revamped into a collection of art museums, bars, restaurants and cafes, lots of artists displayed their wonderful paintings on the sidewalks, I couldn’t resist a small collection of original oil paintings of the district. Moving to the upper town, starting on top of “the Rock” was the cities principal landmark, the hotel “ Chateau Frontenac” which has loomed over the city since 1892 like a protective fortress, it’s fairytale turrets are of Gothic-Renaissance architecture, the green copper roofs are a familiar sight throughout the main cities of Canada. In the courtyard surrounding the hotel many artists were staging short comedy plays and readings, all dressed up in period clothes. A tour of the inside of the hotel was also remarkable, the stucco carvings, tapestries and wood panelling. Taking high tea there was worth more than my budget for a week so I settled for a few beers with fellow bus passengers Clair and Loretta in a nearby bar.
I took a “Quebec by Night” tour, which included a tasty French meal, the night-lights gave an enchanted glimpse to this romantic city, plus the wine was wonderful.
Alas it was time to leave this picturesque city and move on towards Montreal, following the mighty Lawrence River among very fertile with dairy farms and summer crops taking advantage of the river for irrigation, a stop at the Notre-Dame Du Cap Shrine, a pilgrimage town dedicated to Mary. Lots of little towns and villages were dotted along the way, finally we arrived at old Montreal, still time to make a three hour tour of the city, the great metropolis is built on an Island, it is a sprawling city of cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, each a delight to stroll around. Many beautiful old churches like the huge Cathedral of St. Joseph Notre Dame with its beautiful 18 ct. gold painted wooden carvings and highly decorated alter figures. Most of the important buildings had the green copper roofs and French styling. Again it was exhilarating to walk around the narrow cobbles streets.
This evening we were invited to a medieval banquet as guests of the Governor of Montreal, actually is was a re-enactment, with food dished up on pewter plates and drinks served in pewter goblets. A governor was selected among the guests and yours truly was chosen, I was whisked away to a changing room, returning in my scarlet robes and crown, my moments of glory were that all the guests had to bow to me and wait for me to start eating before the meal could be taken, there were no cutlery so we ate with our fingers. The entertainment was from top class performers, a mixture of 16th century and early settlers style. It was nice to feel important for a few hours; I paid for it with on-going smart remarks for the rest of the tour.
It was hard to leave this unusual vibrant city but our journey continued next morning to the National Capitol Ottawa, this time taking the secondary roads, it was great to be off the freeways and enjoy the beauty of rural and river scenery, we took a pause at the Chateau Montebello, a beautiful resort built of interlocking logs, no nails were used, one could just imagine the lovely setting when it would be surrounded with snow during winter.
On arrival in the Capitol, Ottawa our bus did a tour around the city, taking in the huge mass of Parliament Hill buildings and the many huge residents of the world’s ambassadors. The Rideau Canal which stretches from the inner city to Lake Ontario 200 klms away, it also qualifies in winter as the worlds longest skating rink, in summer it offers delightful boat cruises and canoeing. We were able to view the “changing of the guards”, at the Presidents residence. It was a lovely day for exploring the main city by foot experiencing some interesting markets and beautiful buildings and gardens, I joined Claire and Loretta for an evening meal, then watched the re-inaction of the history of Ottawa outside Parliament Hill, the lighting and narration was well done. The city as with other centres of Canada I have already seen is lovely and clean and tidy.
An early start for the ongoing journey to Toronto, back following the Lawrence River, a stop at the town of Gananoque to take a relaxing cruise around some of the thousand Islands on the river, most occupied with either holiday homes or huge mansions. The bus was waiting for us continuing on to Kingston for a lunch break and enjoy an enactment parade of 1832 of soldiers at Fort Henry.
Arriving in Toronto in the late afternoon, still lots of daylight and time to explore downtown and a lovely meal. This city is quite different from the others of Canada, very little French spoken, quite an abundance of undesirables roaming the streets so it did pay to stay together in a group.
A full city tour was organised for this morning, noticeably lots of red brick buildings in the older part. It was hard to believe that this gleaming business and urban life was in the 1790’s a malarial swamp. The old and new city halls had individual character, downtown business area with the usual high rises, lots of elegant shops, Bloor St. is the fashionable hub of the city. A drive along the waterfront showed much recreation areas set aside for families and sport. Looming in the distance was the huge CN. Tower that dominates over the all weather sports dome.
After our city tour Claire and I managed to catch a local bus back to explore the tower, there was a long queue to go up the tower, which we finally made, the first section took 58 seconds, the glass fronted viewing platform of the observation deck gave us a brilliant view of the whole metropolitan area of the city, a further lift took us to the space deck at 447 mts., the height to the top was 553 mts. or 143 stories, it is higher than a simular monster in Moscow but Chicago’s Sears building is still the tallest.. The sports dome with it’s all weather cover way below, dwarfed by the amazing building structure of the tower. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the abundance of warehouses and department stores, settling for a sidewalk café for a few well-deserved beers.
Our journey next morning was a 1 ½ hour drive to Niagara Falls, which divides Canada and America Borders, the more dramatic side, the Canadian Horseshoe Falls are 177 ft. high compared with the American Falls, 184 ft. but has a smaller cascade of water. We took a boat trip on the “Maid of the Mist” out close to the boiling waters; a wonderful experience and everyone received a thorough wetting. A group photo was taken overlooking the falls. The town is a haven for holidays and honeymooners, lots of souvenir shops with the falls not far away at any time.
Claire, Loretta and I decided to use up our free afternoon to go back to admire the many different panoramic views and enjoyed the sunset colours of the Falls. Once again we discovered a nice little bar that served ice-cold beer. All enjoyed a late meal in a revolving Minolta tower overlooking the flood lit Falls, it was one of three dominating the skyline for that special sight.
Another lovely morning, took a look at the Falls once more at sunrise, also the Minolta tower silhouetted in the morning light. We crossed the Niagara River and back into America, through a far quicker customs check and started the long journey through New York State, then on to Pennsylvania following rolling country, into the valleys and into Amish countryside which is claimed to be the most fertile in America, German and Dutch communities, manicured fields of crops and dairy farming, very neat and picturesque homes and farm sheds, all without power or telephones, most wear their Amish clothing and drive horse and carts ,a stop at a typical store selling home made produce was a good chance to sample much tasty and nutritious products . Our next stop, the Hershey’s Chocolate factory just out of Lancaster, we were taken on a conveyor belt tour through the history of the factory, just so many different tasty chocolates, I really excelled myself in buying up lots of treats to take home.
We stayed the night in a lovely country lodge, very quiet until we all took over the bar and enjoyed the cheapest beer on the trip, by now friendships were made and hopefully will last for many years.
Before leaving this squeaky clean area, we made a call at a typical Amish house and farm, listened to a talk on their history and customs, finally making a stop at a small bakery to indulge once more in delicious cakes, pastries and pies.
Following the freeway south to Baltimore, then on to Washington. D.C. On arrival the bus took us on a brief tour of the historical section of the Capitol city, it was a grand view looking down the long grassed recreation area towards the needle tower of the Washington Memorial, then a drive around to view the Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and the huge Dome of Capitol Building. On either side of the grassed area were many museums and galleries, plus the old brick building of the Smithsonian, history was all around us. Among the many displays of modern space travel was the original Star Spangled Banner, which is on view only once a day in a special ceremony. The White house, residence of the President of America was originally designed by an Irish-born architect in 1792, over the decades the very impressive mansion has been re-decorated many times to suit various presidents, The lower floor is quite often open to the public, sometimes even when the president was working upstairs. There was lots of history to be learned in the Capitol, sadly I am leaving the tour tomorrow at Philadelphia but excited on going back to Washington to meet with my English friend Harry Letch, who lives there and we will explore the museums and galleries in depth.
The tour is returning to New York today via a few hours in Philadelphia. I was fortunate to be able to view and even touch the Liberty Bell, this was the bell that came from England in 1751, cracked en route but was repaired in time to ring from the tower of Independence Hall in 1776, then cracked again in the nineteenth century, now it has laid to rest for visitors to pat with affection.
After a final farewell to my Cosmos tour friends I caught the bus back to Washington. D.C. to stay a few days with Harry and enjoy more of this very historical city and surrounding districts, our first stop after a warm greeting was the nearest pub to enjoy a few beers again. Harry has planned some great sightseeing.
Next day we drove into the countryside along smaller more picturesque roads, arriving at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, where part of the civil war was fought, the Fed. Troops and the Southerners with Robert E Lee, the town had been burnt to the ground but has been lovingly restored to its original state. We moved on to another historical sight, Antietan, where the bloodiest of the wars was fought against the Southerners and the Feds, in a single day 22.000 troops were slaughtered. Here in the museum was an excellent panoramic re-enactment relating to the battle. Driving through the grounds there were signs relating to the history. Park rangers were great to listen to with their excellent knowledge, even the corn fields we could see had been cut to ground level by cannon fire, saw the stone bridge which was a stronghold during the war. The history of America is something that I was a bit ignorant about so this has been very educational. After a very long and interesting day Harry and I enjoyed sampling a few different beers in a local pub and a lovely meal.
Next day we continued our history lesson with a drive to a town called Federick, rich in lovely old colonial architectural restored to the original beauty, then on to Gettysburg where over 50,000 troops died in the course of the war, and a huge national park is dedicated to these brave soldiers. The day became very hot so we drove around the park pausing at historical sights like where Lincoln gave his famous address for freedom. There was an electric scale mural map explaining the battles, all done by lighting, the sounds of war as the story unfolded made it very real.
Our evening was spent with a 45 minute Metro ride into downtown Washington to view the Lincoln memorial in floodlit splendour, the Capitol and the needle of the Washington memorial dowsed in ghostly light.
We made the journey back downtown next morning to explore some of the museums and galleries, the unusual brick of the Smithsonian centre, which is the home since 1958 of the world famous Hope Diamond, original uncut weight of 112 carats, present weight 45 carats it is said to be cursed, owner Evalyn Mc Lean had a lifetime of tragedy, it still has a value of 8 million dollars. an instructive Imax theatre in the Space museum showed astronauts filming in outer space. We took a walk around the beautiful Botanical gardens, always an interest to me working in the horticulture field. This is my last night staying with my friend Harry, a good excuse to go out and have a farewell drink or three and a nice meal.
My journey on next morning started at an early hour of 5.30 am taking the Metro to Union St. downtown in time to catch a familiar Greyhound bus heading for Columbia in South Carolina , we had a lady driver who proved to be very capable in controlling the large bus , the scenery was very lush with lots of crops ripe for harvest, occasional bush country and many lovely small towns . The lady passenger in the next seat came from Orange, Texas I learnt a lot about the history and customs of the south people, also the style of cooking which sounded quite tasty. I changed buses at Charlotte for the last two hours of my journey to the inland city of Columbia.
My dear friends Dottie and Kathy were there to meet me, (I had met these ladies on a tour through Scandinavia) To my horror I discovered my suitcase was missing, a search by the bus company proved fruitless, Dottie was not amused at their slackness and used her power, her late husband was a very important citizen of Columbia, soon there was action all round. I was staying with Dottie and was told they would inform me as soon as the case was located. Keeping their word, the following night the phone rang around midnight to say it would arrive within the hour, some inexperienced porter had not read the label properly and took it off the bus at a smaller town along the way. I had borrowed some fresh clothes from one of Dottie’s neighbours; otherwise I would have been a little smelly.
Next morning, after a tour around the city I joined the ladies on a drive to beautiful old Charlestown in Dottie’s shiny new huge car. Located on the South Carolina coastline was founded around 1770, it was also known as “The Holy City” due to the prominence of many churches. Today there is an abundance of beautifully restored historical mansions, owned by slave planters of rice and indigo. At one time the city was the fourth largest in America with a population of 11,000, nearly half of who were slaves. The interesting old marketplace was situated where slaves were bought and sold, now has many hundreds of craft shops, mostly run by Negro woman who still have the culture and skills of old Africa. A two-hour city tour taught me a lot of the cities history, plus visits to some of the lovely old mansions, a noticeable spectacle was very large verandas on the sides of the buildings so not to pay huge taxes for road frontages.
That evening I was invited to the ladies friends home for dinner, Hal & Charlotte were also on the Scandinavia tour but through sickness had to leave it early. Their beautiful white mansion with a huge pillared veranda was set among lovely gardens down a country lane; they had their own-labelled wines from a large vineyard close by. A delicious meal was served; I hope I succeeded in acting the perfect gentleman to their hospitality.
After a nice breakfast in downtown Columbia and bid my farewells to the ladies I was on a southbound Greyhound bus to St.Augustine in Florida. The route took along main roads, not freeways firstly back to Charlestown, then south through many small towns and rich farmland, this changed to marshlands and tropical scenery as we neared the Florida border. The first large city was Jacksonville, all high rises, I’m happy I decided on St.Augustine as this place was an enjoyment, a beautiful seaside city, the nations oldest, most charming and also known as “the Ancient City”. It basks in year round mild near perfect climate. The delightful historical downtown cobbled district was alive with quaint cafes, pubs, unique shops, and art and gift surprises. My lovely Spanish style hotel was in keeping with the town’s beauty. I had time to visit the museum of “Ripley’s believe it or not”, with it’s bizarre and unusual artefacts on display, incredible illusions and an interactive gallery. I also found “The Fountain of Youth”, ( never did me much good), a large crocodile farm didn’t excite me much.. That evening I enjoyed a delicious seafood platter, a few beers and nice white wine.
On the road again, this will be my last Greyhound bus trip, a brand new one at that. Miami, here I come. there was a change at Orlando, (wish I had the time to visit Disney world) but my time had nearly expired. Miami is spread out for many miles of beautiful coastland; finally we crossed into Beach Island where my hotel was. I was anxious to book in and get out to explore the golden sands that seemed to go on forever. That evening I enjoyed a lovely meal in an unusual restaurant, the tables with chairs were actually placed in classic sports cars cut in half and set along the walls, all shiny and brightly coloured. I contacted Vickie, one of the two girls I previously met on a canal cruise in the south of France, we made arrangements to meet the day after tomorrow for a tour around Miami.
Next morning I decided on an organised tour of the city and a boat cruise around the islands that make up the beach area. Sadly this was the worst organised tour I have ever experienced, starting an hour late, there was little commentary in English, but lots of Spanish, (it was to be an English speaking tour) It didn’t take me long before I was having a heated discussion with the guide concerning the vast amount of Spanish he was speaking, soon the majority of the tourists were getting what they paid for. I enjoyed the boat cruise, it showed me how the very wealthy had such a wonderful lifestyle with great sea views and relaxing living in their huge mansions.
My friends Vickie and Debbie came to my hotel to join me for a meal in a very popular Japanese restaurant, then on to some trendy bars around the south end of Miami to enjoy my favourite beer.
Next morning, after a refreshing swim in the tepid ocean, my friends Vickie and Debbie arrived to take me on a sightseeing tour of Miami through the eyes of locals. Our first stop was for a walk along the exhilarating strip of the art décor area of South Beach, a mile of hotels, beautifully preserved buildings of the 30’s and 40’s era, a handbook of the street history was a great help. a visit to Coconut Grove showed lovely homes of the middle class people. Vickie took us to visit the yacht, which she and her husband called home, they do a lot of cruising around the Bahamas, what a lovely lifestyle. A visit to the Venetian pools beautifully set among brilliant waterfalls and lots of mosaic tiling. When it was close to sunset, we found a pub and enjoyed a daiquiri, which is rum based with lots of blended strawberries, very strong, very nice. I enjoyed the brilliant fiery glow of the setting sun. Next a great steak meal and a huge slice of mud pie, soon it was time to say goodbye to my friends, thanking them for a wonderful tour of this vibrant city.
After a final swim, it was time to pack up and start the long journey home to New Zealand, I had booked a shuttle bus to the airport, to my surprise a stretch limo called to collect me and a lady. My minute of fame was soon shattered as the uniformed chauffeur lifted the boot lid to allow me to struggle with the ladies suitcases and mine, I guess it was worth the classy ride to the airport. The reverse pattern was staged, the chauffeur holding open the boot to allow me to struggle once again with the heavy cases, then an outstretch hand was thrust towards us more or less demanding his tip, I portrayed my answer in my best kiwi fashion leaving behind a bewildered driver.
Alas I was feeling a little depressed knowing than another wonderful holiday was about to come to an end, soon I was aboard a Delta flight from Miami to Atlanta, then a change for my ongoing flight to Los Angelus, and my connection to the Air N.Z. D.C. 10 service to Auckland. I was shocked back to reality when listening to fellow kiwi passengers talk, having been used to Americans and Canadians talking over the last few weeks. I new that I was headed home to start the procedure of saving for another fabulous holiday somewhere.
Till my next venture
Cheers
JIM.F.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Poetry. Storm

Storm
Flashes of light dance across a sky so black
Clouds explode with an almighty crack
That was yesterday, now blue skies are in contrast
With a green canopy of treetops, a desirable forecast

A leisure hike through bush tracks today
With pathways marked to guide all the way
The huge trees stand in upright splendour
No sun to be seen, thick foliage galore

There are no snakes or spiders that mattered
Fantails darted and wild pigs scattered
Shy little kiwis are like large puffballs
The white-throated tuis made occasional calls

A bright flash I saw, then a thunderous roar
A tree came crashing to the forest floor
Light was showing where the tree had once been
Now rain was heavy, a upsetting scene

More flashes of lightening, a scary outlook
Next an ear piercing clap, the whole forest shook
My clothes were now wet, no coat nor hat
So this is summer, I really doubt that

The storm recharged many times, that was weird
Forrest floor all slushy as water appeared
Rabbits scurried and birds made a tweet
I’m thoroughly soaked from my head to my feet

The track markers are gone, and now I’m lost
Also cold and wet, feels like frost
I took shelter in a huge hollow log
Hopefully I’ll be found in this watery bog

Thoughts of a cosy fire, maybe a hot drink
Waiting for rescue, I’ve time to think
Hours later, now the sun has shone
The lightening, thunder and rain are all gone

Well, what’s this, a marker to show?
The guideline that I needed to know
I’m saved; I don’t need help to find my way out
Deliriously happy, I started to shout

Following the markers, now easy to see
I’ll soon be home, a nice place to be
How fast a storm comes, that’s hard to digest
Could have been worse, but maybe less stressed
Now back home in my own cosy den
I dream of more hikes but just don’t know when
Checking the forecast will be my first deed
To make sure it is safe is what I’ll read

Monday, July 16, 2007

Overses Travel. England & Europe 1981





England and Europe. 1981

Another exciting venture is looming, I decided to take my mother-in-law Emily Baine with me to England so she can spend some time with her son Kerry and daughter-in-law Angela. Since the death of her husband Jack, the family thought it would be a nice change to enjoy some overseas travel. This is her first time away from New Zealand and my third. A gathering of friends and relations were at the airport to bid us farewell for our long journey, our plane was an Air N.Z. D.C.10, the first stop being at Honolulu which took just over seven hours, just for refuelling, then on to Los Angeles, then a couple of hours wait till we boarded the plane once again for England. The ruling with Air N.Z was the planes could travel on from L.A. but with a British Airways crew. The service proved a bit disorganised after the splendid crew of Air.N.Z. My mother-in-law, Emily, was quite stressed out after the long journey and was relieved to finally reach our destination, Heathrow, and meet with her son.
It was pleasing to see Kerry & Angela at the airport, also my friend Keith Bougher and his girl friend, only spending a brief time with him and made arrangements to stay on my return from Europe. We all caught the train to Kilburn in London where Kerry & Angela’s had their studio flat, it was difficult for Emily to climb the steep stairway to the third floor, this has been a culture shock for her away from her quiet lifestyle in the small country town of Te Aroha.
Enjoying a happy family reunion plus a sample of my duty free Rum I soon discovered that sleep was overcoming my desire to continue so it was off to bed, it had been many hours since I last slept.
Next morning I sorted out my luggage, said my goodbyes and caught the tube to Kingscross Station where I boarded the Flying Scotsman Express, the journey passed through lovely countryside bursting with signs of Spring everywhere, cities like Nottingham, Shefield, Leads and landmarks like the York Cathedral. then onto my destination, Newcastle-on-Tyne. My friend Harry Letch was waiting for me, after an exciting reunion he took me to his home he shared with his sister Muriel in the coal-mining town of Birtley. The terraced house was among row upon row of identical style and colour, it would be very hard to find his place without a street and number to guide you. Muriel had prepared a lovely late luncheon, which we all toasted in a wee dram of rum.
Off to view the sights, our first destination was to Durham particularly the huge Cathedral and University on a hill dominating the city. Climbing the tower of the cathedral was quite a major event but the view of the city was amazing and rewarding, people boating on the river were like tiny ants, splashes of colour everywhere which proved to be the first flowering of hundreds of roses.
The return trip took us through” the moors” country and the quaint village of Blanchland. That evening I met the locals and friends at Harry’s favourite Buffs Club, I was not very fond of their room temperature beer so I decided on the cold lager which was very palatable at .42 pence a pint. I don’t think I would attempt to keep up the pace of the locals.
Next morning, Harry and I started on a journey north to Scotland, time first to explore the local area driving through quaint country lanes and small villages, we found an interesting factory called “ De La Rue” which mints the New Zealand bank notes. Our next stop was the small town of Richmond, with its cobbled narrow streets, lovely little cottages; the high steeple of the church was the centrepiece. Travelling west we passed through many kilometres of Mooreland country, very baron, stone fences winding over the landscape had probably been there for many centuries. Next the Lake district, very picturesque country, very busy with lots of tourists and locals enjoying the clear air and beauty. Stopping in at a pretty little village called Cockermouth, we found a bed and breakfast place for the night and then explored the town, and were delighted to find the house where the poet Wordsworth was born, and learned all about this famous man from the historical museum. time to sample some of the fine products and a pub meal.
After a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs we were back on the road again, still going north, the first stop was Carlyle after taking a short detour to Keswick to view some beautiful scenery at Derwent waters, climbed into the surrounding hills for a better look. Moving on to the Dumfries via the very popular tourist attraction of Gretna Green, which used to cater for young people who wanted to marry but in England they needed their parents permission but not here. A close up view of highland cattle with their long hair and curly horns reminded me that we were approaching Robbie Burns’s country. We passed through many delightful small towns, all with lots of historical bridges, ancient buildings and cobbled streets; there was a fitting memorial to Burns in the shape of a tower domineering the corner of two streets. Our stop for the night was Ayrshire coastal town of Largs. Took a stroll around the waterfront in the warm summer sunshine with it’s many small craft silhouetting the lovely old buildings and a huge church steeple, decided that we had earned a wee drop of ale and a meal of good old fashioned fish and chips in a pub overlooking the sea, then on to another pub where there was lots of entertainment, it was a “ come as you please” night which I was told meant you could get up and sing or tell a story. We enjoyed the company of some local Scots but never attempted to keep up with their drinking habits.
After a hearty breakfast Harry and I left the coast and headed towards Glasgow, then Edinburgh, it was great taking smaller main roads as we passed through many lovely small towns and villages, lots of rolling barren countryside with very few trees. We bypassed Glasgow and arrived in Edinburgh in glorious sunshine, I was told it rains often there but this was my second visit, both in glorious weather. We are now in the capital of Scotland, an outstanding city, rich in open spaces, museums, beautiful buildings and elegant streets. The older part has dark courts, cobbled streets and steep steps of the medieval ‘Old Town” in contrast with the gracious squares and crescents of the Georgian ‘ New Town” with the Castle overlooking the beautiful gardens and Scott’s Memorial beside Princes St., the exciting main shopping area. We took a tour of the Castle; this gave me a chance to catch up on what I had missed on my last visit.
It was time to head back to New Castle, back over familiar roads, only one stop, Bamburgh Castle by the sea, a Norman Castle revamped in the 18th/19th century, has collections of porcelain and armoury. Its vast size was built on a rise overlooking the sea. Arriving back to Harry’s home, this time via the Tyne tunnel, an experience quite remarkable, going under the Tyne River for about a mile. Just in time to meet with friends at the club and say goodbye as we catch a flight to Amsterdam tomorrow.
Awoke to the shock of light snow falling, this is mid April, suppose to be into spring? We caught the bus to New Castle airport for our British Caledonian flight to Amsterdam, just a 50 minute flight. The amazing sight, endless fields of tulips and daffodils like a patchwork quilt greeted our approach to Holland. After booking into a hotel we strolled around the quaint streets of Amsterdam, trees bursting with blossom and lovely Old Dutch style buildings reflecting into the many canals. Of course one needed to sample the delectable flavour of the Heineken beer, I wasn’t disappointed. We both suffered from a balance problem and a bit dizzy, (that’s before the beer) I found out later the plane was not pressurized enough. I think the beer help reverse our balance to near normal.
A lovely morning with clear blue skies, we caught the train to Köln, I had a Euro rail pass which I started on the German border, soon we were passing through lovely green countryside, then beside the massive Rhein River and disembarked to explore the impressive Gothic Köln Cathedral of St. Peter & Mary, started in 1248 and finally completed in 1880, it is the landmark to the city, narrowly missing being bombed during the second world war. The interior was equally beautiful with lovely stained glass windows, a huge alter behind which is the gold and jewelled shrine of the Three Kings. Köln is the most ancient and busiest city in Rheinland and fourth largest in Germany. Our train timetable only allowed us two hours to explore the bustling city, with it’s many grand shops and small bars everywhere. Time to continue our journey so we were back on the train; next stop Koblenz, our base for the night. Built on the confluence of the Rhein and Mosel rivers, giving the town access to both river regions. The old Promenade of the city is tree shaded and studded with pavement
Cafes, a special feature is the Weindorf (wine village), first built for a wine exhibition in 1926 and now permanently popular with three wine houses surrounding a square with wooden benches and tables set beneath mature shade trees. Among the buildings of historical interest to be seen in Koblenz was the old 13th century Castle which now houses the city library, also the Baroque Rathaus (town hall) I found a wonderful shop full of my favourites, beer steins, a collection so huge, I just loved them all. On our return to our hotel there was a dusting of light snow, how the climates change so rapid in Europe.
The morning dawned to clear skies but a little fresh, after a delicious German breakfast the train left Koblenz for our destination Mainz, following the Rhine again we were soon in wine country, vineyards stretched for miles clinging to the hillsides to catch the sun. Mainz is a University City, built on the fork of the Rivers Rhein and Mainz, it has an ancient history, the most imposing sight is the 1000-year-old Romanesque Cathedral, which houses an impressive collection of church art. A walk toward the rivers was where we could view the busy traffic on the waterways, lots of huge barges chugging their way up and down carrying all sorts of produce.
Back on the train again on our way to Würzburg in Bayern (Bavaria). The scenery was simular, lots more vineyards and many castles dot the hillsides along our route. Arriving early afternoon, Würzburg proved to be a lively city with an ancient history, built on either side of the Main, in a valley, dominated by the Marienberg Fortress. The main attraction The city is famous for it’s wonderful architecture, places like Residenz, the grandest Baroque Palace in Europe, it is built in the form of a huge horseshoe with four inner courtyards and one reception court, then the Käppele (a pilgrimage church) the Cathedral of Kilian, plus the Chronos Fountain with it’s wonderful statues. We enjoyed the smaller city, had found some excellent accommodation and were able to explore these wonderful building at a leisure pace, finally deciding on a small restaurant to enjoy a delicious meal of Schweinaschnitzel (pork) and some equally delicious larger beer.
We decided to stay on another night so as to do a side trip to Bamberg, so next morning we caught a slower train which stopped at all stations, I would have loved to get off and view some of the quaint little villages and towns, the paddocks were mostly ploughed ready for sowing summer crops. Bamberg is situated in river and hillside country and is a city with some very fine architecture. The Rathhaus (town hall) was an interesting Gothic and Rococo combination, with murals and carvings of statues on the walls, unusually located on a bridge across the River Regnitz, connecting the two halves of the town, (the bridge actually passes right the hall), The four spired Romanesque Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George is much admired for it’s grandeur and holds many artistic treasures. Among the many fine buildings clustered about the cathedral is the Old Residence of the princes-bishops, now housing a historical museum. Bamberg was truly a photographers dream, every turn was a new masterpiece to be taken, beautiful half-timbered houses, highly ornamented and sculptured buildings lined the waterways. On our return to Würzburg we made plans to move on in the morning.
Still remarkably fine and warm, an early morning train took us to Regensburg via Nürnberg, It is the principle city of East Bayern, situated on the Donau River, the first stop was to view St. Peters Cathedral, one of Germanys greatest Gothic churches, it’s 105m towers are much admired for their delicate stonework and stained glass windows. The Rathaus (Town Hall) is most famous for it’s Reichstagssaal, where holy Roman Emperors, including Charles V have sat. On the ground floor is a gruesome medieval torture chamber where judges sat to extract “voluntary confessions”, nowadays, however there’s a friendly Ratskeller (wine cellar).
Back on the train again, our next port of call is Passau, this beautiful city built on the fork of the Inn and Donau Rivers. Another very fascinating city, with narrow cobbled streets of various levels, quaint old houses built into the riverbanks, many of which were joined together by decorative arches. There was a beautiful stone bridge, which was completed in 1146 and has 16 arches; a walk across it gave impressive views of Regensburg skyline. Along Bridge St. there were lots of interesting shops selling pewter ware. Our evening meal was another tasty German veal dish with many fruits and vegetables, all washed down with some also very tasty larger beer.
Back on the train again, travelling through more vineyards and market gardens, we were on our way to wonderful München, via the interesting town of Landshut which I would have loved to explore but there was now a time factor. We arrived at München early afternoon and by some fluke I managed to find the same Pension I had stayed in three years earlier, the proprietor even recognised me, amazingly he looked up my name without me giving any details. Harry’s comments were “once seen, never forgotten” We are in Germany’s third largest city, the Bavarian capitol, art and culture along with its famous beer industry. The new Rathaus (town hall) in 19th century Gothic style covers the north side of Marienplatz which is for pedestrians only and has many lovely fountains, cafes, a marble column topped by a magnificent statue of the Madonna, originally intended for the high alter of the cathedral plus lots of flowers. Its main feature is the ornate Glockenspiel, at 11am each day, animated colourful dancing figures emerge from the clock, bells tinkle and tunes play. We did a city tour to get acquainted with places of interest, then went back to admire the beautiful architecture of mostly restore buildings. The city is full of old squares and odd and interesting corners. A stroll in the lovely English garden with its beautiful old mature trees and beds of colourful flowers and lots of statues.
This was the last night Harry and I had together as he is heading back to England via Heidelberg and I’m moving on to Basel in Switzerland, then travelling on to Toulouse in France to take a weeks canal cruise on a barge. We found a wonderful old beer barn and enjoyed some equally wonderful steins of Bavarian beer along with a hearty meal of boiled pork, sauerkraut with klösse (dumplings). We both found our rail euro pass was very convenient and we used it to our advantage being able to visit many different cities and towns throughout our journey, It was very sad to say goodbye to my good friend, he had been a great host whilst I was in England, luckily we enjoyed the same scenery and history, and of course our love of a beer or two, now I have another new adventure to look forward to.
Awoke to light snow again but it wasn’t cold, We both caught the train to Stuttgart where we said a final farewell, Harry heading north and myself booking my journey to Toulouse, which seemed quite complicated, so many changes, so many stops, I had little trouble changing trains at Karlsruhe, even though there was but one minute to change tracks for the train to Geneva. It passed through some beautiful picturesque rugged Swiss countryside. Arriving at Geneva about nine p.m. I was soon on my connecting train to Narbonne in France, then a last connection for a six-hour overnight journey to my destination, Toulouse, France. There were passport checks at the borders which were no problem, arriving at the end of my journey at the horrible hour of 5.30am after no sleep, I was cold, hungry and tired but it was too early for places to open, I left my luggage at a locker at the station and went out to enjoy the lovely sunny morning that was dawning to explore the city which is the biggest and most important town of the south west. There were many well-preserved houses of the renaissance period. An outstanding place of interest was the basilica of St. Sernin, rich in Christian relics. The remains of 128 saints include those of some of the Apostles; the most sacred relic was a thorn from the crown of the Crucifixion. I wandered down a number of tiny back streets with barely enough room to pass, admired the nice old buildings with lovely latticework frontages. Being in bad need of a shower and change of clothes I was pleased when it was time to meet up with the Canal Barge cruise staff and fellow passengers for the week long slow trip among the picturesque countryside.
We all met at the Hotel Concorde, four cruise staff, all English and Walsh, six other passengers, who were Americans, after introductions and explanations of what our itinerary was to be we were taken by bus to our barge home for the next week. Luckily I had a cabin to myself, very tiny but okay, there was a lovely dining room and bar, two viewing decks where you could sit and watch the scenery go passed. We started cruising at 6 pm. travelling through three locks before tying up for the night. I was able to enjoy a well-needed shower and change of clothes before joining the fellow passengers for a welcome drink and our first meal, a lavish spread of tasty meats and salads, along with many cheese and snack food. The table wines were included in the price and we were told that if we managed to drink all on board we would have our fare refunded, (what a challenge)
It was great to enjoy a good sleep in a bed again instead of leaning on the window of a train; I guess trying to drink the barge dry would have helped a little. The barge started up again after a wonderful breakfast of a huge rang of French delights, my fellow passengers, five ladies and one man were from different parts of America, we soon become good friends, here to enjoy this marvellous holiday together. The sun was shining and starting to warm up for the day so we all tried out the sundeck to watch the changing landscape go by and were soon experiencing something unusual, instead of the long drawn out dilemma of going through a series of five locks, the barge took the easy way out, they called it the water spout where two motorized wheels guides take the barge to a drop of forty feet riding as if on the top of a wave, an amazing experience. There are walkways alongside the canal and cycles on board for the energetic; it is easy to keep up as the barge travels very slowly.
Tim, our skipper suggested he take us by (the mini bus that followed the barge) into the small French village of Montech, there was a very old and huge church for the size of the village, I had a chance to explore the cobbled streets, enjoy the unusual styles of red brick houses and old barns where there was rows of corn neatly hanging on rails to dry.
Back on the barge again in time for happy hour, I enjoyed my first beer for three days, not quite up to the standard of the German lagers but still refreshing. Our cook excelled again in producing some wonderful French cuisine; starting with the usual large arrangement of cheeses and crackers, hot meats and vegetables, finishing with a tasting sweet. had another try at drinking the barge dry, I think they gave us too much lovely food to slow down my attempt.
Today is May Day, 1st May, we call it Labour Day, everyone has a holiday including the lock keepers so the barge is tied up, we all opted for a tour to Albi in the mini bus, travelling through some very lush farmlands, orchards and fields with summer crops just about ready for harvest. The first stop was Montauban, a medium sized town standing at the foot of the Bas-Quercy Hills, it is a centre for fruit trade, and during summer free samples are given away to visitors. . The local brick is a delicate pink and many of the old monuments are built with it making them very colourful for photography. Moving on, we passed through Gaillac, there was a fair there so we joined in, lots of local produce, jewellery, ornaments and clothes at great prices. Time for lunch our driver found a lovely spot by a river just outside the town, our cook had come along to set out the huge platters of delicious meats, cheeses and crusty breads. Panic struck the camp, the cook had forgotten the wine, so everything was on hold while the bus made a fast trip to buy some, returning with two bottles each, heh!! This only lunchtime?
Carrying on our tour we were now passing through wine growing areas, then our destination, Albi, a fortified town with a long history, its most famous painter son is Toulouse-Lautrec, the local museum there contains the best selection of his works. The cathedral is a remarkable example of a fortified religious building, a vast edifice of brick.
Our return was by a different route and took in much more wonderful scenery of vineyards, market gardening and orchards. Dinner was another masterpiece, the sweet was an unusual pear pie, or was it the red wine changing the flavour? Our little group finished off the evening with a few rounds of cards, a pleasant way to enjoy each other’s company.
Awoke to the sound of our engine and discovered the barge was already moving, a large section of the canal was to be closed next day so we needed to do a longer journey, the weather is rather cool and overcast but cosy inside watching the scenery, mature trees lined the canal and every now and then there was a colourful display of wild flowers lining the pathway, where many cyclists and joggers passed us by, as I said the barge travelled very slow. We stopped at a small village called Moissac, it had started to rain and the local markets were finished but we were able to explore the beautiful old 12th century church of De L’abbatiale, the inside is painted in different designed tile affects. Back on board the rain was getting heavier so I stayed in the saloon and enjoyed the abundance of vineyards, small villages and quaint little cottages that lined the canal. The barge finally tied up for the night, it was now raining heavily so our group decided on starting “happy hour” a little earlier, our cook obliged with an assortment of snacks to prepare us for a lovely quail meal cooked to perfection with a very tasty gravy, a chocolate mouse for sweets and lots of red wine. With very little exercise I developed some uncomfortable indigestion, I was out of tummy settlers so I spent a disturbing night.
The morning was still overcast so I decided to go into the nearby village and try for a digestive remedy, with many charades of my complaint no shopkeepers seem to understand my problem, they must have thought I was tasking a fit, finally a chemist smiled, hopefully understanding my dilemma and gave me some aniseed liquid, it worked almost immediately, what a relief! Still time to explore the lovely village, I never tire of the quaint cottages and the churches in the town centres. The barge chugged slowly on, though it had stopped raining it was still quite chilly, now we passed through an industrial area which spoilt the usual scenic vista of lush trees and flowers but that soon passed and it was time to tie up for a luncheon stop and a leg stretch. I found a very old villa hidden among the trees, worthy of some photography, then another small village and large church. Travelling on we passed over a large Aqua-duct, (the canal crosses over a river), amazing, who would have thought of doing that? then the slow process of passing through five locks, by this time it was close to happy hour so we tied up for the night., gorging ourselves on another delicious meal, by now I have slowed up on the complimentary wine, don’t think I have a chance to drink the barge dry..
Next morning our faithful little bus that has followed us all the way took us for a another scenic journey through some very picturesque countryside, orchards of peaches, apricots and much more grape vines, a small village dating back to the 12th century and a beautiful stone bridge, then a detour back to the barge for lunch, then back on the bus for a tour of Agen, the centre for exploring the Dordogne and the vineyards of the Bordeaux area. The winding narrow streets have many medieval houses, some combined into a museum. The cathedral is 11th century, quite a plain looking structure, there were some really old houses lining the river, built like a solid wall and jutting out over the water.
This evening is the last one of a wonderful relaxing barge holiday, the staff helped us celebrate and joined us in a wonderful farewell dinner, a huge variety of temptations to choose from, diet starts tomorrow, maybe.
I packed up my luggage, enjoyed a hearty breakfast, then Tim took us all to the railway station in Agen, I decided to join two of the American ladies on a side journey to the walled city of Carcassonne, before catching the train for my return trip to Germany for a cruise of the Rhine River.
Catching the train back to Toulouse we caught the express that passed close to Carcassonne, then a taxi to this fascinating town, serene and ageless, it lies in a vast hollow between the foothills of the Cevennes and Pyrenees, a historical wonder of France, with it’s centre surviving in, or lovingly restored to it’s pristine glory, as created between the 9th and 13th century. The massive walls, forts, keeps and storehouses give a vivid idea of what life was like in the troublesome dark ages. Ann, Betty and I explored the narrow cobbles streets; many quaint old houses have been converted into touristy shops. Soon it was time for me to depart on the next leg of my journey, just time for a farewell drink and I was back on an express train to Narbbone where there was a four hour wait for a connecting train to Basel in Switzerland. I left at the horrible hour of midnight; luckily to fill in the time I had the company of two English folk who were travelling on the same train. There were no spare seats so I had to be content in standing in the passageway, with my head against the window trying to sleep, a crazy idea so I just swallowed my pride and lay down on the floor to rest my legs. Time passes so slowly when you’re not having fun, sometime in the early hours the train stopped and a whole compartment left so I immediately took it over, pulled down the blinds and turned the lights out, stretching out on the seats I soon fell into a deep sleep, awaking with a start to notice daylight had arrived, I turned around and to my amazement there was a very dark skinned fellow with a crop of black curly hair sitting opposite me, I nodded and thought it was no use trying to have a conversation with him, I was also mad at myself for letting my guard down , having my face to the back of the seat, I could have ended up with a knife in my shoulder blades. After a while my fellow passenger said, use me, “do you speak English?” in an accent far more polished than mine. As it turned out my impression of him was soon altered when he told me he worked at his fathers Hotel in Morocco as an interpreter and was on his way to Norway for a skiing holiday. Arriving finally in Geneva after passing some very beautiful scenery of snow covered mountains, lush valleys and tiny villages.
At last my train journey was ended at Basel around 11 am, I felt a little shattered but needed to fill in the day till I can board the Rhine River cruise around 5 pm. After finding out which tram to take to the barge, I put my case in a station locker and ventured out to explore the city. There was a mixture of Swiss, German and French styles of buildings; I could hear a mixture of assorted languages. I managed to fill in the time with enjoying a delicious huge meal; the air was crisp so hot food was what I needed.
Time to join the Rhine Cruise, I booked in and was given my cabin number, I was told I needed to share with three other people. When I saw the size of the cabin I wondered how four people could possibly survive in such cramped space, besides I wasn’t very happy about having to sleep in close quarters with others. There was no sign that anyone else had been in the cabin, I had thoughts that it would be wonderful if no one turned up. After a well needed shower and change of clothes, there was a “welcome on board” by the crew serving some lovely wines and nibbles. I relaxed in the bar with a few great German beers, and then enjoyed a delicious evening meal. Before joining the passengers for entertainment in the main reception I took a look in my cabin to see if anyone had arrived, not a soul, great. maybe they were on board and hadn’t taken their luggage down yet. At this stage I decided to stop thinking about my sleeping conditions or my whole cruise would be ruined. After an enjoyable evening of entertainment I was pleased to retire to my cabin, (only me) I had booked a bus tour for next day. What happens the barge stops and you join the tour which takes you to places further along the river and then you get back on the barge,
After an agreeable breakfast I relaxed and took in all the wonderful scenery as the cruise slowly plied the busy river, passing many other barges, including ones used for carrying all sorts of merchandise, plus lots of small craft. The shores were dotted with lovely little towns, always a church steeple, lots of castles were scattered along the hillsides. It was the Captains Champagne party in the afternoon, Anna Marie, our hostess for the cruise called for all different countries to make themselves known, she gave a greeting to them all in their own language.
We docked at Mannheim, Europe’s second largest river port, I did a walking tour of the city but not a lot of beauty, called into a few quaint pubs and enjoyed the entertainment, I returned to the boat and joined the company of a group of American Tourist Agents, lots of laughs and a few Löwenbraü beers.
Next morning I was up early for exercisers on the top deck with Anna Marie, then while enjoying a hearty breakfast the boat was underway again. I settled for the rear of the boat to enjoy the abundance of castles along the hillsides surrounded with row upon row of grape vines. No sooner had I settled and it was time for lunch, a splendid spread, (wow, where am I putting all this lovely food). Late afternoon we docked at Köln (Cologne). I have already written about this city when I visited it with my friend Harry but now I can give a different account of the nightlife. Our Hostess Anna Marie, chose the American tourist agents, a Swiss chap and me to join her in a pub visit in the older quarters of the city. The entertainment changed from each place, lots of singing, dancing and there seemed to an endless Prost, (cheers) among the patrons. A most enjoyable night out, the beer was good also.
The morning session of fitness had already started when I reached the top deck; maybe I was a little hung over? Another hearty breakfast and it was back to admiring the passing scenery. We seemed to be into more open country now, with a rural flavour, this is my last day on board so I must take in as much of the beauty that surrounds me.
The cruise ended at Njmegan in Holland where I said goodbye to the many friends I made on this wonderful experience, you have a totally different outlook from travelling by bus or train. I caught a bus to the city of Amsterdam where I had started my European holiday with Harry; this took ages, as there was a large marathon in progress. Finally I made my way to the railway station where I caught a train to the Hook of Holland for an overnight ferry passage back to England. It was a smooth crossing, I found a comfy chair in the snooze lounger and surprisingly I managed a few hours sleep.
The Ferry docked at six a.m. I managed to catch a train to London, surprising how different the countryside differed from Europe, noticing fences and animals, road signs in English, plus everyone talking it. . Next was the underground train to visit my brother-in-law and sister-in-law, Kerry and Angela’s home. Great to see them again, it seems ages since I had first arrived in England. Kerry and I enjoyed a few nice beers at a local pub, then Angela joined us for a delicious Chinese meal.
Next morning while Kerry and Angela were at work I explored the area of Kilburn where they live, managed to confirm my on going flight to Singapore. and enjoy some good old-fashioned English shopping, checking out many streets of old mansions and terraced houses. I met Kerry after he finished work, he took me to a lovely Irish pub for a farewell drink which I was enjoying until he told me this pub had been blown up two years previous by the I.R.A., now I kept looking over my shoulder.
After collecting my suitcase and said my goodbyes I caught the underground train to stay with my friends, Keith and Juleen, Keith and I had worked together a few years ago and it will be great to catch up with him again.
I am now a confirmed expert at catching trains around London, Keith was at the station to meet me, the first thing to do back at his very nice, near new flat was to sample some huge 2.2 lt cans of beer, not bad, Juleen cooked a lovely roast dinner with all the trimmings, and lots of very nice wine. There were many years of things to talk about, the wine helping to remember some of the past happy times.
Morning in this very quiet urban area was quite a change, so after breakfast they took me for a drive into some lovely English countryside, down tree lined, narrow country lanes, small villages and always a pub or two which needed to be explored, they all seem to have individual charm, most with their own history. A favourite one I chose was beside a canal, the decor was rich and ornate, so was the Turkey pie and salad for lunch.
All too soon it was time to return and collect my luggage and get to the airport for my journey home. More goodbyes, not even a chance for a farewell drink at the airport as the bars there work the same rules as pubs, close at 3 pm and reopen at 5.30 pm. My Air N.Z. flight was to take me to Singapore via short stops at Zurich and Dubai in Arabia. There was a chance to buy duty free goods at Dubai, everything was so cheap, I had doubts if they were genuine, bottles of top grade spirits were as little as $7, gold and precious stones also had low price tags, I bought a lovely multi-coloured rug and a few trinkets.
On arrival at Singapore I managed to catch a bus into the city and soon found my pre-booked hotel, Ming Court, it was very warm after Europe, about 30 degs. C and high humidity. My beautifully decorated huge room at the hotel made up for the nights I tried to sleep standing up in trains. Now, the first thing I needed to do was find a tailor who had been recommended to me, this wasn’t hard to do, and I was soon being measured up for 10 assorted shirts, four pairs of dress trousers and a sports coat. This took a while to organise and it was closing time when all was completed, so the tailor and his nephew invited me to join them for a local meal and drinks in their favourite garden bar. This was a wonderful experience, tables were set out among huge trees, the lighting was mostly coloured lanterns, as I walked in I realised I was the only non Asian there, the conversation stopped and everyone stared at me, my friends soon found a seat for us and ordered drinks, then they explained to the people around us I was their invited guest, suddenly the mood changes and everyone was happy again. The beer arrives in huge bottles, a mere trifle of the normal tourist price. The wonderful meal was a mix of many continental dishes, which I enjoyed immensely. After consuming far too much food and drink my friends took me on a late tourist walk around some of the attraction, like the huge white lions/fish with water gushing from their mouth as a centrepiece of a colourful fountain. The city is so clean, and feels safe as there are many families walking around enjoying the cool of the night. I said goodbye to my new friends and caught a taxi back to my luxury bedroom.
I was woken with my phone ringing, it was Air N.Z, telling me my homeward flight has been confirmed and gave me my seat number, this has never happened to me before, there was a sales pitch though, asking me if I would like them to send a limousine to collect me and take me to a reputable shopping complex recommended by the airline, if only they new I was nearly out of funds, anyway I decided to check it out. There were some very good bargains; I did need a new watch, some toys for the grandkids, plus a beautiful gold dipped Singapore orchid brooch for mother.
President Shears of Singapore died and as a respect to him all shops and transport was closed for the afternoon so people could pay their respects to him at the Istana, (residence), where he was lying in state. There was only one way to get around now and that was my two legs so I walked the full length of Orchard Road and back to the lion memorial again and admired the beautiful gardens. The humidity was very high and exertion doesn’t help but I was keen to see all I could, besides I had worked up a giant thirst and deserved some nice cold bottles of Anchor beer.
After a good nights sleep I was keen to get out for more sight seeing, first though was a stop of at the tailors for a fitting, everything looked great, I will be a very smart gentleman all dressed up in my new clothes. I discovered the older part of the city, a huge contrast to the high-rise buildings of downtown. Also the famous and historical Raffles hotel, originally built in 1887, added to many times and completely renovated on around 1980”s. It was taken over by the Japanese during the occupation in World War 11 and used as a transit camp for prisoners of war. It is a very elegant old lady and is still known for its equally famous drink, “ Singapore Sling”. Still some time left so I made my way to the botanical gardens, a cooling change from the concrete jungle. Covering many acres of beautiful lush gardens in full colour, many huge glasshouses of thousands of Singapore Orchids, there is a definite influence in English style pavilions and kiosk’s. I was delayed for a while by a tropical downpour, it was very heavy and soon flooded everywhere, and just as quickly it turned out sunny again and all the water disappeared .The humidity was even greater so it was back to the hotel for me to enjoy the air conditioning and a cool beer.
After a cool shower I lay on the bed for a rest while outside the sun was shining and it would still be very hot. I awake with a start as the doorbell was ringing, a reminder that I had two hours to vacate my room, What! I looked at my watch and it was 10 am , the sun was still shining, but it was next morning, I had slept about fourteen hours, I was told that was because I spent so much time in the severe heat and humidity. Now I needed to pack my bag and quickly go and collect my made to measure clothes and head for the airport. After all the rushing around I was informed there was a delay with my flight, cancelled till next morning, all the passengers were booked into an hotel at the airport at Air N.Z’s expense, served a lovely meal and had an early morning call to go back to the Airport which was utter chaos, rebooking was a marathon task as thousands of people of all nations clambered to find their queues for respective planes, I was told that was usual in this airport but a new ultra modern airport was nearly finished
So ends another wonderful holiday of about five weeks, experiencing many exciting adventures, broadening my knowledge of many countries, eating all sorts of different foods and admiring some most beautiful scenery and many styles of buildings, plus learning lots of history and customs.
Till my next venture, I have enjoyed re-writing this story from my diary, adding more detail and also reliving the whole vacation once again.
Take care
JIM

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Overseas Travel. Wonderful Scandinavia, Germany and Thailand





Wonderful Scandinavia, Germany & Thailand 1988
Boarded a near new D.C.10 aircraft for a 12 hour flight to Bangkok in Thailand, a short rest, then back on a 747 Jumbo bound for Copenhagen in Denmark, another one hour flight got me to my destination, Oslo in Norway, quite a marathon way to travel but I would rather spend more time in the countries I am visiting first and have a stopover on my way home. I arrived in the morning, too early to book into my hotel so left my baggage there and started my own little tour to discover the superb Norwegian capital of half a million people. There are many hard to pronounce words and I know during this holiday spelling and speaking them will be difficult. Most locals speak beautiful English with an Oxford accent. A long walk around the sea frontage was a must to get my body adjusted after such a long flight. The day was pleasant and warm, being high summer everyone seemed to be out enjoying some of the nearly 24-hour daylight, I could just imagine winter, it hardly makes twilight. I discovered the massive Akershus fortress; it had been destroyed by fire in 1624 and rebuilt along with the replanning of the city, which was named Christiana, reverting back to Norway in 1905 when independence was gained from Sweden. The medieval fortress houses the Defence and Resistance museum, a moving, factual memorial to World War 11. An attractive seafaring adventures housed in the Bygdoy, here the some Viking ships are displayed, plus Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki, this balsa raft was used for a voyage from Peru across the Pacific to Polynesia in 1947, also there is the Ra 11, the papyrus-built (replica of an vessel of ancient Egypt in which he crossed the Atlantic in 1970. Close by were many fine examples of ancient buildings, including a 13th century church. I took a mini cruise of Oslo from the Fjord, viewing many Islands in the inner part of the Oslofjord. I made it back to the Hotel in time to meet up with the bus tour, which I was touring, and covering Norway, Sweden and Denmark for two weeks. After a friendly gathering and discussion of what we will see there was still time to take a trip to see the famous Ski Jump, Holmenkollen, there is an annual festival in March, attracting visitors from around the world, the surroundings offer fine walks and views over looking the city. I enjoyed a lovely meal of Norwegian salmon, plus other seafoods.
Our bus tour started next morning with a drive around the city, some of the highlights I had already seen. Passing through Oslo’s main thoroughfare of Karl Johan’s Gate and the 19th century Royal Palace, watched the changing of the guards, the Palace grounds are open to the public. We visited the Vigeland Sculptures in Frognel Park; his 192 sculptures of bronze, granite, and wrought iron depict the various stages of the human cycle from birth to death. The bronze statue of a boy having a tantrum was superb The impressive Oslo Cathedral built in 1694 has been restored had splendid doors with fine bronze reliefs and a large statue of Christian 1V.
Our tour bus departed for Sweden, motoring south through mostly fields of wheat and forest, stopping briefly for lunch at the border town of Svinesund, the light rain had stopped so the bus took the scenic route via the Islands of Orust and Tjorn, connected by bridges, some very nice fjord backdrops. Finally reaching our destination for the night, Gothenburg, it’s population of half a million is situated on the river Gota and Sweden’s principal port Canals wind right through the older part of the city and a popular way of sightseeing is by broad, flat bottomed boats that ply their waters. It has sea links with the U.K and Denmark, seems to have a small town atmosphere despite the major harbour and industry all around.
A 6.30 am start this morning, a nice fine, mild morning, we needed to catch a vehicle ferry for a three hour crossing to Jutland, north Denmark. Motoring through very flat lush dairy countryside, a lunch stop was a small town called Hobro, wild roses and lupins were in full bloom along the roadside. Legoland was our next stop, a fantastic masterpiece of construction, millions of pieces of this world known children’s toy put together to form village buildings in miniature, a river with boats and an airport with planes. The distinctive colours of red and white, it’s called the Disneyland of north Europe. Moving on again, this time to our night stop, a lovely old converted thatched house, near Frederica, beautiful views of green pastures and crops. The group of 39 on the bus tour are getting to know each other; I think there will soon be more socialising! .A lovely country meal was served to us that evening.
We left this delightful rural setting, our first stop was Odense and Hans Christian Andersons (1805-75) house traditionally believed to be his birthplace, has been restored and turned into a fascinating memorial illustrating his life through letters, manuscripts, documents, pictures and other memorabilia. His fairy tales enchanted the world; the street has beautiful half-timbered houses, a collection of 16-17th century buildings, which illustrated the lifestyle of those times, along with very old cobbled streets. A short ferry trip to the Island of Sealand, and on to Roskilde, which has many palaces and castles, we visited a cathedral in Romanesque and Gothis styles which goes back to 1170, remarkable preserved and is the burial place for kings, many of the tombs are magnificent works in marble and alabaster Just a short drive and we were in Copenhagen, the Danish capital, as well as being a great industrial city of one and a half million people, it is a seafaring port, one of Europe’s most graceful places with its myriad copper spires and domes punctuating the skyline above the narrow streets and canals. A city tour took in the Amalienborg Royal Palace and Royal Residence we just missed the changing of the guards at noon, but did wander around the grounds, we viewed the Parliament buildings, all very impressive. Beautiful. Trivoli Gardens are undoubtedly one of the cities great attractions, this world famous amusement park was laid out in 1843 with very colourful flowers and fountains, popular open-air performances of plays and ballets, a night time view was like a fairyland with thousands of lights. A symbol of Copenhagen instantly recognised throughout the world is the famous bronze statue of “Little Mermaid”, pensively observing the ships that come and go. I later took a walk around the many quaint cobbled streets and canals close by our waterfront hotel viewing tall ships, many ferry’s and overseas liners, included was another visit to the ‘Little Mermaid”
Next morning was free to discover the city, I walked along the fascinating pedestrian precinct of five streets packed full of interesting shops and tourist traders, huge department stores, I wanted to buy some Copenhagen porcelain but decided against that when I priced the smallest specimen, I settled for a reproduction. Even at this early hour there were lots of people of all ages sitting around drinking beer, in parks, on seats in the streets, it seems to be a normal social occurrence, tramps were everywhere waiting for the empty bottles, I found out they were worth a Krona each and I guess that helped in a country with a very high cost of living .I took a canal cruise for an hour, some great views of lovely old buildings and tree lined streets, lots of small boats and a multitude of sea birds everywhere.
The evening was spent first with a lovely meal in a nice restaurant, followed by a visit to the Copenhagen Circus, quite amazing, with many world-renowned trapeze artists, acrobatics and lots of clowns, an excellent show.
An early start next morning for a ferry crossing into Sweden, passed Kronborg Castle which guards over the city of Elinore, then a long 545 klm. Drive to Stockholm
Firstly travelling through thick forest, which had high fences on either side of the road to keep out the moose and deer. A stop for a leg stretch at a lovely lake setting near the old city of Jonkoping, and then on to a lead glass factory where we were fortunate to watch a demonstration of glass moulding, my attempts of making a kiwi were a disaster. Moving on we were now in farming country, lush green pasture and market gardening, scattered along the way were many small lovely lakes. We arrived in Stockholm about 6pm, a city of 1-½ million people, still full sunshine and many hours of daylight still ahead. Our hotel was situated in the older part of the city among lots of beautiful 16th-17th century buildings, a maze of narrow traffic free streets full of antique and art shops, boutiques and restaurants. Many musicians were playing, some only young children.
A nice 24 degs. to start a tour of the city, first stop the fine-looking City Hall, built in 1923 with it’s piazza like Blue Hall, and majestic Golden Hall whose walls are entirely covered with 18 million glistening mosaic tiles depicting the history of Stockholm. Next the massive18th century Royal Palace which houses a museum of beautifully arranged armoury, we were lucky to view the changing of the guards. There are about fifty bridges linking the Islands of the city together. Some of us walked back to the older part of town to take in the great atmosphere. For dinner that night we took a launch to the outer island of Vaxholm, through an area called the Archipelago, a very nice old wooden homestead overlooking the fjords that serve some delightful seafood including salmon and herrings cooked in various ways, plus some very nice wines. Our return was by our tour bus, rather confusing as I never saw a bridge on the way over.
Sadly we left this lovely exciting city and headed north towards the city of Mora, lots of simular scenery, very lush and green, first stop was the lakeside Sigtuna, Sweden’s oldest town, with quaint shops and a very small town hall. Along the way was the city of Uppsala, one-time royal capital; the site of Scandinavia’s oldest university completed in 1477, there was also an elegant cathedral also of the 14th century. We passed many lakes, calling into another small village with quaint wooden houses, all painted in a redwood colour contrasting the greens of the pastures around the lake. A lunch stop in a small town had many inviting shops selling porcelain, lead crystal and hand made jewellery. We visited a wooden horse factory; hand made and all very brightly painted, an attraction I couldn’t resist to buying some. After an interesting day our coach took us to our stop for the night, a peaceful lakeside hotel at Mora. I still can’t get used to the sun setting after midnight and daylight at three am.
Mora is a large town which has an interesting museum illustrating works of the great artist Anders Zorn, as well as peasant art and architecture, Hantverksbyn is a delightful district of shops and houses recently built in traditional style. The town is also the starting point for the marathon Wasaloppet ( Wasa Race) every March when 12.000 skiers follow a traditional route covering 85 klms of cross country competitions, the temperature in winter can drop to as much as –40, that is cold…
Moving on again we were soon on the Norwegian border, the town of Lillehammer and the open air museum, life’s work of a dentist Anders Sandvig, a collection of 120 timber buildings set in a leafy park, displaying life as it was around the 15th century. On the road again we finally reached our stop for the night, a delightful mountain resort built near a lake and promoting some wonderful scenery. The evening meal here was quite traditional, followed be music and dancing in the coffee room, I remember that was the first time I had heard the “ Chicken Dance” that has became popular world wide. I enjoyed some very nice beers and danced the night away.
Next morning I awoke to peace and quiet, the only sounds were from the bells clanging around the sheep’s necks. Today we travelled along a river road, passing some of the finer views of this trip so far; we were in a gorge with farming going right up the mountainside with many changing landscapes, passing through many small villages, one with an old stave church from the 12th century. Reaching the Geiranger fjord we caught the vehicle ferry at Hellesylt for a very beautiful cruise through Norway’s most stunning fjord, huge passenger liners use the deep waters for the awesome spectacle of the mountains which drop in sheer rock cliffs into the fjord, there facades streaming with waterfalls, we passed two cruise ships which were dwarfed by the vastness of the cliffs. Our delightful hotel for the night, overlooking these stunning views was very equipped with saunas and indoor swimming pools. A fellow passenger Charles and I decided on a walk up the hills to a spot we had seen advertising the fjords, it had a rock protruding and travel magazines have photos showing people sitting out on the ledge overlooking the cruise boats hundreds of metres below, we attempted the same thing but could only stay there for a minute, especially me, I am not keen on heights. A very tasty seafood meal was served had an enjoyable swim in the heated pool, amazing, the temperature got to 28 degs during the day and a mild night, somehow I don’t think I would enjoy their winter degrees.
Light drizzle was falling as our coach took us on a tour to Trollsteigen, the road wound over the surrounding mountains with great views of the Geiranger fjord, then to the valleys where strawberries and cherries flourished, up some steep mountainous roads for some wonderful scenery, the road then travelled down the other side to Valldal with very little room to spare for our bus to turn around the sharp bends, some shear drops of hundreds of metres, it was an anxious 15 minute trip but worth the panorama , luckily there were many good photo stops . The return wasn’t so bad; I managed to enjoy the rugged scenery in a more relaxed mode. The evening meal was another delicious seafood assortment, followed by some great entertainment in the ballroom of the hotel by an Italian band.
Time to move on, a last look at the stunning views of the fjord; the reflections were picture postcard, blue skies and great reflections. Our bus took us to where Charles and I did our ledge sitting, our fellow bus passengers were amazed that we were so stupid to climb out there, oh well one must have a few dares in our lives. Travelling on over some very rugged terrains, at times reaching 1500 mts. The road was steeper and more rugged than yesterday, but equally breathtaking views. Passing many huge glaciers and ice fields, also Norway’s highest peak contrasted by a cloudless sky. Winding back down into valleys of lush green and pebbles mountain rivers it was nice to see the fields growing all sorts of vegetables, hay stacked for drying, also more strawberries and cherries. Our destination for the night was another lovely hotel at Sogndal, near a lovely fjord. Dinner was another example of traditional seafoods, then we were entertained by local musicians performing folk songs.
Next morning started with light drizzle which spoilt the spectacular views along the toll road of Dalsnibba, climbing some treacherous heights overlooking more ice fields, a two hour ferry trip was marred by low cloud and rain, we passed through the narrowest fjord passage that boats attempt, then back on the bus going through peaceful countryside and valley rivers following the road. Thinking our climbing days were over, our bus took us on a 1—20 road up to a high peak for more amazing views of the valleys below. The road was so narrow, just enough room for a car, a squeeze for a bus, we met a car coming the other way which had to back up to a passing lane. The weather had cleared which allowed more wonderful views of this very rugged country. I nearly forgot to mention, Trollsteigen and most of the highland towns and villages displayed and sold a large variety of Norway’s Trolls. The legend of these very ugly little fellows is that they hate being happy, can’t see very well and don’t like daylight, live under rocks and bridges, and scare people. A childhood story I remember is “ Three Billy Goats Gruff”. I just had to bring home some example statues, one I really liked had his finger up his nostril but couldn’t get one small enough, they have a prime spot in my house now. Our night stop was a small town called Os. This is the last one for some of our tour folk so it was a dress up evening, a nice meal and farewell drinks, it is only 30 klms from Bergen, our final destination
After a morning mist the next morning cleared to bright sunshine, the short drive to Bergen by the sea and our bus driver let us off in the middle of the city for some exploring of the colourful market area, fantastic displays of all types of fish, smoked salmon seemed to be the specialty in vacuum packs, a huge selection of flowers from around the world, close by is the undoubtedly top attraction, the Hanseatic district where a row of ancient 16th century wooden houses with their high pointed gables providing a frontage for a network of narrow alleys leading back into the cobbled courtyards, workshops and living quarters. Striking examples of rustic colours reflected into the calm waters of the harbour. I took the funicular cable car up into the hills above the city, the unusual beauty of the whole sprawl of the panorama view, the steep hillside was scattered with delightful old wooden houses. Our bus collected us later for a tour around the city, lots more beautiful old wooden buildings and cobbled streets, it was soon time to say goodbye to some of our fellow passengers, the last nine of us were taken to a striking near new hotel where another farewell dinner together was enjoyed, my flight to Frankfurt was to be 6 am, in the morning.
It was only an hour’s flight to Copenhagen, then another hour plus a 30-minute circle of the airport waiting for space to land. My friends Jutta and Maggie were there to meet me, a delight to meet up again, they had organised a little side tour instead of heading back to their hometown of Wiesbaden. Driving east on the autobahn calling into some very beautiful villages called Goeßweonstien and Pottanstein, both with their distinctive church steeples. A hotel was booked in a town called Hummeltal, this was close to the Czech border, time to meet up with Juttas brother Axel and family at their cosy home where we enjoyed a lovely traditional German dinner with lots of delectable lager beer.
A beautiful morning, lovely blue sky was a pleasure to see, we enjoyed a huge breakfast of crispy bread rolls, cold meats and cheeses, then drove to Nürnberg, Bayern’s second largest city. Many of Germany’s talented artists were born here; Albrecht Dürer; woodcarver Veit Stoss; sculptor Adam Kraft. We took a walk through the older part of the city, enjoyed the church of St. Lorenz with it’s beautiful stained glass windows and huge stone tabernacle. Walking on through the attractive markets and the town hall to view the underground prison where inmates were held before hanging in the city square, (a bit gruesome), there were also some frightening torture chambers. Moving on, next was the court buildings where many trials for world war 11 criminals were held. The imperial castle is situated on a hilltop, dating back to the 12th century, it is flood lit at night. Also in the Hauptmarkt, (main square) is the magnificent Schöner Brunnen fountain, it is ornamented with 40 statues and dates back to the 14th century, there is an ring set in the wrought iron surround that you can turn so many times for your private wishes? another lovely fountain is the Gänsemännchenbrunnen in the court square of the Rathaus, ( town hall), cast in bronze in 1550 and depicting a peasant taking two geese to market. Lots of interesting shops specialising in glassware. We watched a group of entertainers in full Victorian dress practise for a musical. I was able to enjoy once more a favourite German meal of Nürnberg sausage and sauerkraut, with a huge stein of beer of course. Back to Hummeltal in time for some more enjoyable lager beer and cold snacks of meats and cheeses, (wonder if that was okay for my cholesterol)?

Not a very promising morning, although it was mild with no rain. Today we drove to Bayreuth, an important arts and music centre, our first stop was the Robert Wagner theatre for opera, the acoustics are suppose to be the best in the world, all the interior was timber, even the seats. Next on our list was the Margrave Opera House, beautifully decorated, again with timber interior but not as famous as Wagner. A stroll around the market place, alive with the daily produce and craft ware. there were many beautiful buildings including Wagner’s home. Just on the outskirts of the city was the Eremitage, a castle and park of elaborate fountains and flower beds, we were fortunate to be there when the fountains were turned on to their full splendour. The return trip was via the small neat town of Bischofsgrün, a delightful tall, narrow church dominated the square, we were only 30 klms from the Czech border, the country of my ancestors. Another night at Hummeltal and dinner again with Jutta’s brother and family.
Next morning we left the peaceful little town for the drive back to Wiesbaden, first winding our way through nice lush countryside and small villages, then the uninteresting but swifter autobahn. It was nice to return to Wiesbaden again and visit familiar landmarks, I took 16 rolls of film to get developed and finished off the day with some more delightful German beers while packing a small bag for a three day visit to Berlin.
I caught local train for my connection with the Berlin express. Going through the barbed wire border into East Germany was a remarkable change of scenery, quite depressing, the houses old and drab, primitive farming, small Russian cars everywhere, we only stopped once for passport inspection, even the train didn’t run as smooth as the west ones, renovation was badly needed all over. After six hours the train re-entered West Germany and Berlin, an immediate change in everything, brightness of buildings, big shiny cars and well dressed people. I had a hotel booked and still being light I was eager to explore the vitality of this exciting city. Close by was the popular Kurfursten Damm with it’s numerous cafes and little bars. Performers were entertaining everywhere possible, there seems to be just about every nation enjoying this exciting city. I enjoyed a very nice meal of ham hock, sauerkraut and vegetables and some of that divine amber liquid.
The morning was warm and sunny so after a typical German breakfast I set out by foot to explore the inner city, firstly walking the entire length of Kurfüstendam Street, stopping now and then for a photo shoot, just about all the buildings in the tree lines streets were post war, no beautiful half timbered houses here. I arrived at the Berlin Zoo, very well presented and Europe’s most modern. A little foot sore by then so I decided on a three hour bus tour, first stop Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate and the Berlin Wall, three of the world’s most talked about places, very historical to actually see them, the wall is fully covered in graffiti, our tour guide explained about how many people died trying to escape from East to West Berlin, so sad, we stopped at the place where Hitler and his family committed suicide at the end of World War 11 . There was a raised lookout for viewing the East, a drab and sad looking sight; hopefully I will be able to make a tour there. Our guide explained all about the British, American and Russian sectors and bus tours were available passing through to the Eastern zone at Frieddrichstrasse, commonly known as Checkpoint Charlie. Unter den Linden, an Avenue named after the lime trees which once lined it is now full of exciting and huge department stores, including the largest in Europe called ‘KADEWE’, six floors of just about everything you could imagine. The damaged steeple of Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche was a reminder of the destruction of the war, a new cathedral is built next to it, also the towering mass of the Europa-Centre was very impressive. We passed the University of Berlin, and the famous Tiergartens. After this very interesting tour I decided on a lovely bier garten I had seen and settled there for a few of their fine products, a storm suddenly appeared, lucky for the shelter as it was quite severe, unfortunately I had to stay longer than I had intended to, .so I enjoyed more of the delicious food that was everywhere.
Booking a four and a half hour tour of East Berlin I was anxious to go there and experience for myself all the rumours I have been listening to over the years. After a thorough examination of my passport and a cold stare into my eyes by a big Russian woman, I was determined not to blink and give her reason to interrogate me further; our tour bus was allowed to proceed through Brandenburg Gate as long as we promised not to take any photos until we were in the East. Our Guide was full of propaganda, of life in this Russian controlled country, boastings on the free education programme, employment and lifestyle, hospitals, doctors and dentists free. Women work at equal pay to men, there is no unemployment, apartments are issued as to the size of the families. Food, clothing is very cheap but limited. Cars are mostly Russian Trabants, a range of colours as long as you like light blue, grey and white and very expensive and have a waiting list of approximately five years .a pleasant picture was put to us about life in the east, one Dutch person on the bus exclaimed that there was one thing they didn’t have, “ Freedom”. And why did most people want to leave? Of the 17 million people living in East Germany only 1.5 million belonged to the communist party. A stop to view the huge Egyptian Museum was a surprise to see all that irreplaceable art carefully tendered, I was told most of it was brought back from Egypt during the war. We stopped at a café for refreshments, not a bit like the lavish cakes and pastries of the west, it was hot so I settled on a coke, shelf temperature and tasted horrible . A passport check was made again before entering into the West, don’t know why, no one would have wanted to defect there, the bus was thoroughly searched, we needed to walk across no mans land while this was done, no wonder everyone was employed. Anyway, I was pleased to have the opportunity to visit East Berlin, people didn’t seem very happy but at least they had food, employment and shelter, I think I’ll settle for the bright and flashy West. I enjoyed a final huge meal, plus enjoying some final thirst quenching beers.
Time to leave this exciting city, an early start for my train journey back to Wiesbaden, it still amazed me on how quickly the scene changed going back into the east, the only part that wasn’t depressing was the freshness of crops growing, wheat in the fields and animals grazing. Border control was no hassle and we were soon back through the coils of barbed wire into the west after a thorough search of the carriages in case someone was trying to defect to a brighter future. There was no problem with the efficiency of, D.B. or Deutsche Bahn, (German Rail) if you arrive for your train one minute late, you have missed it. I changed trains in Frankfurt for the tube express to Wiesbaden, again congratulating myself on my ability to change trains without any dilemma. I met with my friends once again and after a refreshing shower we were again on the road to enjoy my farewell dinner of lots of cold meats, cheeses and pickles in a quaint little beer and wine pub in Mains.
My holiday in Germany is all but over, today I’m catching a late afternoon flight to Bangkok, Maggie had to go to work, but Jutta and I took a drive to Mains for a last look around, called in to say goodbye to another friend, Frau Schön, then it was time to catch the airport train and sadly another goodbye to my dear friend Jutta and be on my way for an eight hour flight. The plane was full, I was allotted a seat in the back with the smokers, a horrible thought, wish planes were smoke free. Arriving early next morning, a car was there to meet me for the 25klm hair raising drive to the city, my first glimpse of an army of people and vehicles, moped bikes darting in and out of traffic, horns blasting and brakes screeching. My downtown hotel was very pleasant as was the lovely room on the eighth floor. A welcome shower and change of clothes and I was ready to explore what makes this place so exciting. . Down in the reception area I noticed a large door with shopping centre written above it, opening it I was soon carried along with hundreds of shoppers in what seemed to be two stories of shops, you name it, it was there. I felt penned in and fought my way out to the street only to be met with a simular problem, many more people, I think all six million inhabitants were in town. I did find a tailor who made to measure clothes; I ordered some shirts and trousers at a very reasonable price for such high quality. Taking a stroll along the over crowded streets I came across the Civic Centre, again teaming with people, shop keepers were out on the streets trying to sell their product, all ready to bargain. After hours of walking this vibrate city (or should I say being carried along the streets with throngs of people) I settled for a nice dinner at my hotel, it was the only place I could get a beer as it was a religious day, tomorrow I am booked on a city and palace tour, just now I was pleased to collapse into my bed after about 36 hours without sleep.
A steamy morning, I was collect from the hotel by a mini bus, although quite early the streets were alive with people already. the first stop, the fabulous Palace, dazzling gold and ornate sculpturing , multi coloured roofs and stark white walls, just so rich in design and culture, a vast contrast to our next stop, China town and some of the depressing slum areas, then an interesting tour of a furniture carving factory, plus gem, silk and clothing manufacturers. I had bought a cold can of drink, one taste and I new it was not what the label said, it had a sweet raspberry flavour and very soon after I started getting cramps in the stomach, I warned others on the tour not to drink theirs, that will teach me to drink anything except bottled water and beer. After some of my magic medicine I felt a little better so I took an afternoon tour of the canals and countryside, firstly a speedboat trip to connect with a large barge, cruising along a river, homes built alongside, people doing their washing on the shores, children swimming in the muddy waters, there were caged parts which had small fish farms, into the farm lands we were taken through farms of ducks, chickens and animals, then rice fields and vegetable plots. A lovely luncheon was served on the barge, delicious fruits and pastries; a favourite drink called “ Bangkok Dynamite” (rum base) lived up to its name. A stop at a typical village was educational; the children entertained us with very colourful dancing and singing. a great afternoon which was certainly a different side to the hustle and bustle of the huge city. I collected my tailored clothes, they were beautifully styled and finished to perfection, I was delighted.
Well, time to say farewell to another adventure, my flight back to Auckland, New Zealand was waiting, a wonderful holiday coming to a close. It will take a while to stop daydreaming, but it will be back to work again and start planning another fabulous holiday, somewhere different and exciting.
Till next time
Cheers
JIM.Fitzthum