Toowoomba & the Darling Downs.
I recently enjoyed three days with my sister Nancy and brother-in-law John covering over a thousand kilometres of lovely scenery, small historical towns and sadly many signs of drought conditions.
Early on Tuesday morning I went to Nambour for the annual Maroochy breakfast and awards, the tourist centres had been highly commended for their work in the Sunshine coast.
I met up with the family to start our exploring of the area I have been keen to discover for quite some time, we travelled a little south on the Bruce highway turning off for Landsborough, through the macadamia orchard area of Beerwah plus some nice views of the glasshouse mountains, travelling on through rolling countryside the next town was Kilcoy, a small farming community, heading south we passed Lake Somerset and dam, which badly needed a few days of solid rain to replenish it’s water supply , next was Esk, a heritage town in the heart of the Brisbane valley, a rural haven , also referred to as the valley of the lakes. We had a nice morning tea there, unfortunately the antiques shops were closed. Further south into the Lockyer Valley, Mango orchards and fields of sorghum were in abundance, with the help of good underground water, irrigation turned the countryside a lush green. Soon we were passing through the prosperous town of Gatton, known as the salad bowl of the valley; there is an interesting historical village and museum. Silky Oaks were in full bloom adding a rich gold to the landscape. Driving further south through the Great Dividing Range, then through a tapestry of crops including sunflower, sorghum, olive groves and flower farms, we were soon in Cambooya Shire, better known as Steele Rudd country, the writer Arthur Hoey Davis, known as Steele Rudd, lived here in the early 1900’s, writing his ionic Australian stories about Dad and Dave, the loveable pair of small time farmers and settlers. Rudds Pub in Nobby, which inspired him to write and has a great array of interesting paraphernalia around the walls. Nobby is also Sister Kenny’s hometown, she initiated the treatment for poliomyelitis and infant paralysis and became world renowned for her work. Another old pub in the area was worth a photo; it is great that most of these gems have been lovingly restored.
A little further south is the town of Clifton, situated at 600 metres above sea level, it has a colourful history and produces yummy jams like grand-ma used to make at the jam factory. The town has been used as a backdrop for many film production, it is a very tidy and colourful.
Turning north-west we travelled through the heart of the wheat country, Cambooya was our next stop, mostly to admire the hundreds of bush roses near the old Bull and Barley Inn. Further west set among rich grazing, dairying and horticulture land is the town of Pittsworth, also known as the heart of the Darling Downs, we enjoyed a drive down lovely tree lined streets and passed many gardens in full colour, well mulched as rain water is very scarce.
The afternoon was drawing to a close so we decided to make Oakey our home for the night. Quite a coincidence as brother’s favourite saying was “Oakey Doakey”, and it was the first anniversary of his death Here there is the museum of Australian Army Flying, there is a every kind of aircraft used since World War 11 and an old Bristol Boxkite used to train pilots during World War 1. We enjoyed a lovely meal at the local R.S.L., Tuesdays they have a special, two for one meals, we were sold on that.
Next morning we discovered the museum didn’t open till 10 am. And as we had a busy day sightseeing we drove further west to the settlement of Jondaryan in time to explore the famous woolshed, a museum of pioneering rural life, the original shearing shed, a100 meters long structure that held 52 blade-shearing stands, the museum was established in1975. Many old relics of the area have been brought to make up a wonderful collection of old buildings and all sorts of collectables, very interesting and it is all operated on volunteer staff.
A little further west is the town of Dalby, lovely wide streets and colourful gardens, an attractive arched entry at either end and some beautifully restored old buildings worthy of a photo, a very prosperous town fuelled by cotton, grain and livestock.
Time to descend on Toowoomba, turning back to the east we were soon in Queenslands largest inland city, set high on a range, characterised by its modern country charm. It is called the “Garden City”having a huge spring carnival every year even though the shortage of water has put a strain on its massive colour displays, with careful mulching it is still worth a visit. The jacaranda trees were in full bloom with the streets a carpet of blue petals. There are many beautifully restored old buildings, among them the grand old Victorian railway station, Empire Theatre and the city Town Hall with its impressive clock tower. , also not to be missed is the old Post Office and clock tower built in 1878. High above the city is Picnic Point, renowned for its stunning views of the tabletop mountains and the Lockyer Valley. There are many popular walking tracks around the city; shame there just wasn’t the time.
Now we turned north, through some rolling countryside, our first stop was the fascinating Danish Shop, jammed full of craft products, you name it, they had it, next was the place I was dying to see, The huge cuckoo shop at Cabarlah is next, but first we had a very nice lunch at the attached Kaffee Stüble, oh! How I would of loved to indulge in an assortment of their delicious German cakes. The cuckoo shop certainly was eye boggling, a far greater range than our local Montville shop, a whole room of huge chiming clocks and on the stroke of the hour there was a chorus of cuckoos all around you. I could very easily have bought some of their beautiful Steins, (beer mugs) I have quite a collection but it is more natural getting them when visiting Germany. Sadly having to leave all this fascinating charm, still travelling north we drove on to Crows Nest. It was a quiet little old timbered town, striking old buildings now house an array of antiques, we called into a very large antique shop, room after room of furniture, I did discover a beer stein among the glassware, quite a find for $15 until I read what was left of a “Made in China” sticker, how terrible.
In October Crows Nest Community Festival includes the World Worm Races among it’s highlights, my mind boggles???.
Now our journey is carrying on northwest towards the Bunyan Mountains, through lovely rolling countryside passing through Haden, the local store there has kept the original canisters, shelving and charm of yesteryear.
Driving on further north, we were soon climbing deep into the Bunya Mountains, spectacular views of the valleys below, the magnificent Bunya Pines tower above the rain forest, with the summit reaching 1107 ft. the coolness was most welcome.
Wallabies gathered at every vantage point, I think they would be saying, “oh no, not more tourists?”
Descending into the fertile valley around Kumbia, we were in peanut and navy bean (for baked beans) country as far as you could see.
Our stop for the night was Kingaroy in a motel, our hosts were ex-kiwis, no other than the great singer of the last two or three decades, Bunnie Walters and his wife Ruth, the Walters had been living in Rotorua most of their life and decided on the big move four years ago and seem very settled, running a successful motel, restaurant and Red Earth Tours. The dining room at the motel was decorated in many themes of Pacific and Asian décor, the food was excellent, though we were not very hungry after that yummy omelette at the German Café.
Kingaroy is the largest town in the South Burnett and the commercial centre of the region, towering peanut silos dominate the town, reminding people it is rich in agriculture production. Roses seem to thrive and display masses of colour.
After a tour of the town next morning we found the Peanut Vans, which was very popular and displayed a wide range of peanuts processed in many ways, I settled on a honey-roasted variety,
Still travelling north we passed through fields of ploughed fields ready for planting peanuts and navy beans, lack of rain has delayed this, we passed through the small town of Wondai, the charm of the attractive street scaping and well-tendered. gardens blends in with the lovely old buildings.
Travelling through cattle country we soon arrived at Murgon with it’s wide tree lined streets, lovely old pubs, strange we couldn’t find a coffee shop. A dairy museum would have been interesting to explore but time was moving on.
Turning a little east now through farmlands we arrived at Goomeri, a small quiet town with lots of antique shops, pumpkin pies and every May they celebrate the “ Great Australian Pumpkin Roll” competition, rolling pumpkins down a steep hill. The aroma of freshly cooked pies lured us into a café where we sampled a most delicious ‘Pams Pie”, I added a good dollop of mushy peas on mine; actually there was real chunks of meat inside.
Heading south-east we decided on a secondary road for our return to Kilroy, through the Jimma Range, about eighty kilometres of narrow gravel roads, passing through cattle country, I noticed there were lots of striking “Black Boys”, they have a black trunk and needle like fronds.
We had circumnavigated the South Burnett, and soon were back to familiar country, as a change we turned off at the Maleny sign with a bonus of viewing the Glasshouse Mountains from another angle, then back to the Sunshine Coast.
It has been a most enjoyable three days venture, covering many different landscapes, very interesting small historical towns, a few unexpected surprises, being blessed with lovely weather, this is another little pocket of exploration in this great country of Australia that I can cross off my still long list of places to visit
Till my next holiday.
Jim. Fitzthum
November 2006
Words 1739
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