Travel. O.seas. Europe 1978

Europe & the U.K. 1978

My travels around the world started in 1978 after my family were all out supporting themselves and at last there was some spare money to fulfil some long time dreams.
My wife and I had totally different views on travel, so we compromised, her taking a very nice boat cruise around the Pacific Islands with her mother which she enjoyed immensely. My first overseas holiday was a bit more adventuress, always hoping that one day I would visit Europe and the United Kingdom, plus many other countries around the world
I started my journey in March 1978, for a two-month holiday. a bit scary being the first time away from New Zealand. I recall how panic took over when the final call to board the Air N.Z. plane for the first leg of my trip from Auckland, N.Z to Los Angeles, I soon settled down and relaxed as my plane winged it’s way across the Pacific.
Having a two-day stopover in this huge city, most of it spent at Disneyland, an experience that I will never forget. The squeaky-clean buildings and pathways, the imagination of exciting exhibits, it was just a very happy and beautiful place. I stayed in one of the huge hotel complexes near Buena Park. I can recall the first blunder I made was in the bar, I asked for a bourbon and L & P (lemon & Paeroa), a strictly New Zealand mixer.
Two days soon passed and I was soon back on the plane, there was a British crew to take us to London as Air. N.Z. at that time only had a licence to travel as far an America. The service was not up to the standard of the former crew but I was not going to start criticising at the very beginning of my journey.
Arriving in England was to be the start of much enjoyment of totally different scenery and culture, including beautiful old buildings that New Zealand doesn’t have, being only colonised in the early eighteen hundreds. My wife’s brother Kerry and his wife Angela were there to welcome me, we caught the tube train from Heathrow to the Kilburn west station, close to their home in Hampstead. The streets of terraced houses were something I had only seen in books. They lived in a large bed-sit for the past two years.
After the excitement of family news and a few drinks of duty free bourbon, I enjoyed a deep sleep to bring my body out of jet-lag mode.
Next day I braved the underground by myself to visit the many old favourites that London have to offer. The local buses were quite simple to follow, (I would never fancy driving in the city). Amazing old landmarks like Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London and Windsor Castle soon filled in the day. A visit to New Zealand House was very helpful, good advice on Europe and other areas of England. . I joined the Youth Hostels Assn., which I planned to stay in throughout Europe. I had a month Euro rail pass that gave me first class travel by train, a very efficient way to see the countries.
I borrowed Kerry’s backpack, which was far easier to handle that a hefty suitcase, also great for walking, with my hands free to negotiate through crowds and catching transport.
After my goodbyes, (I will be back again on my return from Europe) I caught the tube to Liverpool Station, then a train to Harwich for the ferry crossing to the Hook of Holland. a journey of about six hours. On arrival I caught the train to Amsterdam, starting my rail pass, arriving at dusk, I found the youth hostel which was situated on the other side of the Red Light area, being a bit naive it took a while to realise what all those girls were doing sitting in windows, I thought the shops were open late. Scantily clad and smiling at all who passed that way. The hostel just had dormitories of at least twenty beds. Not being used to sharing space with other people of all nations, the Germans talked loudly in their own language, others just snored the night away, this gave me mixed feelings about this type of accommodation, there was no security for luggage, having to leave my pack on the bed, the price was good though.
Next day I did a walking tour around the city, beautiful old timber buildings, quaint shops, lots of canals and cobbled streets. I visited the house of Ann Frank, read the story about her hiding from the Nazis, and horrific pictures of Jewish persecution. I enjoyed a boat cruise through the canals, also viewing the Dykes that keep out the sea as Holland is mostly built below sea level. There were many diamond cutting and jewellery shops lining the canals, very interesting to learn about the very old process of this beautiful gem.
The parents of my next-door neighbour, the Kuggeleijn’s live in Swolle, I had been invited to stay with them. I took the train to Wapenveld, a lovely rural district south of Amsterdam, fields of tulips were just starting to bloom, my hosts were there to meet me, and took me on a trip around the area visiting lots of small towns with lovely farm houses and lush green pastures. An interesting visit was to some new reclamation of land from the sea, then on to the towns of Kamben and Hattem where I saw the old wall gates that controlled water in and out of the dykes. An old top turner windmill stood near the former Suiderzee, which is three mitres below sea level.
We made a trip into Zwolle, to visit a fifteenth century medieval tower set in a brick wall two mitres thick and six metres high that surrounded the town. There were slits along the wall where soldiers sent out their arrows and poured boiling oil on the enemy.
Back to my friend’s home, a lovely two-storied place attached to three others, a colourful garden of roses and tulips. , I enjoyed a lovely meal, which included many different breads and cheeses, along with delicious codfish.
Next morning, I caught the train to Luxemburg; a very small country nestled between Germany, France and Belgium, only a half a million people who speak mostly French and German along with their own dialect. I decided to try out the pensions (bed & breakfast) instead of youth hostels; they were just a little dearer but far more central, a saving on transport, also more security. It started to snow lightly, a pretty sight, giving the city a fairy tale look with its beautiful old buildings. It was quite mild while the snow was falling so I managed to admire the beauty on foot.
There was just a short train journey to Brussels in Belgium, simular styles of architecture as in Luxemburg, and the same currency and languages, they also spoke Flemish. I enjoyed the food, although it was quite fancy with a French flavour. Again I explored the city on foot, numerous lovely old buildings and churches. The snow had ceased but it was very damp underfoot, this was the beginning of spring.
Back on the train next morning, my destination, Germany. There was a change at Koblenze, then on to Frankfurt, the business centre of Germany, being flattened during the war; the city has many modern high-rise buildings. Römerberg Ostzelle has been lovingly rebuilt in the original style of peaked narrow half-timbered buildings. . This is a meeting place for most visitors, I tried the local Appelwoi, a cider drink made from apples and very high in alcohol. decided to stick to my favourite, beer. The Alte Oper , Opera House is a magnificent reconstruction, along with Haupt Wache Square. Sampling the Frankfurter sausage and sauerkraut was a treat. Frankfurt is the gateway to Europe, trains leave for every country.
I took a short bus ride to Heidelberg, taking a tour through the romantic castle where many films have been made, also a beautiful old Cathedral and Schlosskapelle, (chapel), with it’s magnificent ornate alter and timbered archways
Back on the train again, this time it was an express called “ Ice” heading to Munich, the capitol of Bavaria, vineyards were everywhere, putting forth their first green foliage of the season. The train travelled through the medieval city of Nuremberg where most of the war criminals were tried and sentenced; on through more picturesque countryside arriving finally at Munich, a city with lots of traditions, also the Bavarian capitol of Germany also the home base of B.M.W. I soon found a nice Pension and spent the rest of the day exploring with my city map.
The main square called Marienplatz has many beautifully restored buildings including the well know Glockenspiel, (a musical clock with animated figures), the beautiful Theatinerkirke (cathedral) and the Neues Rathaus, (town hall), I enjoyed a visit to the Hofbräuhaus, where every night is party night with singing and dancing and litres of delicious beer in steins. A tour through the Olympic complex where the 1972 games were held was very good, but sadly many deaths of competitors from a terrorist attack were victims.
On the move again, I caught the train to the Czech. Border at Fürth U Wald, after a very strict passport control, I was on my way to Plzen.. The country was then under Communist rule, I noticed the culture shock as soon as the train started, the rails and carriages badly needed up-grading, it was a very slow journey, I arrived at my destination at 9 p.m. only to find no tourist office at the station to book accommodation, very poor lighting in the streets and few people around. I decided to walk to the city centre to find a place to stay. Luck was with me when an English speaking man suggested I try a certain hotel Slovak. It was dark and crumbling, in need of repair place, but he assured me it was comfortable and reasonably priced. On entering the main foyer I was amazed at the beauty, very ornate, with lovely chandeliers and furniture. My bedroom was badly in need of re-decorating but it was clean with a nice feather mattress.
The next morning, after much sign language I managed to catch a bus for the half hour journey to Stod, the small town where my ancestors left to make the journey to New Zealand in 1863. Nobody in the village spoke English so my many questions were left un-answered. Luckily I had the address of a local music teacher who had met an uncle of mine on a previous visit, I had been writing to him and was looking forward to our meeting. Josef was able to answer some of my questions but advised me not to talk to the locals, as they were scared of being spied on and punished. It was very hard to understand the horrible life they had to live. The parish priest also spoke English and I learned much about the life these people had to endure, the Church of St.Peter and Paul has it’s namesake in Puhoi, New Zealand, where my family settled the interior was beautiful but no money was available to do repairs on the exterior. I tried to buy a present for my mother back home, I finally discovered a lovely cameo brooch which cost a few dollars and I later found out it was genuine.
I walked to the local cemetery to try and find any ancestral graves, with the curate who, although spoke only a little English remembered the story of my ancestors leaving and was able to explain with a lot of some difficulty where to find old family graves.
Josef came back to Plzen with me, showed me around and joined me for a delicious dinner at the hotel; it makes a difference to have a local person to explain things. The city was also in bad need of redecorating, shops were limited, lots of books and toys and old fashioned clothing and hardware were for sale and very little else, The world famous Czech Lead Crystal glassware was no where to be seen, but the Pilsener beer, just wonderful and plenty of it.
The city was so depressing that I decided to leave and go back to Germany instead of travelling on to Prague, which I realised after, was a big mistake, but I had a feeling of being watched all the time. Coming back through the border was I was again interrogated and thoroughly searched, any Czech money had to be spent, I was even down to buying matches to get rid of it, decided not to just give it to them.
Back in Germany the lifestyle, buildings, cars and shops changed dramatically. I caught the train to Munich and changed for the journey to the beautiful city of Salzburg in Austria. The journey there passed through beautiful green fields, with animals starting to appear after the winter when they are housed from the cold, snow capped mountains in the distance left a feeling of “ Sound of Music “ country.
There was a huge festival on in the city so it was hard to find accommodation; finally I had to be satisfied by paying about three times the usual price.
Exploring was exciting, roaming the cobbled streets, enjoying the old unspoilt parts, viewing the many fountains and churches; I took a bus ride to Salzburg Castle, well worth the journey. The city was very crowded and alive with music and dancing so I happily joined in, enjoying the wonderful beer and local food.
A little bit seedy next morning, but I managed to catch the train for the three-hour journey to Vienna. Passing through more lovely mountain scenery, lush green valleys and quaint villages. The romantic city has many beautiful old churches, a stunning Opera House, lots of quaint cobbled streets. I enjoyed the exhibits in the museum dating back to the 16th century, including an Egyptian era.
Having spent nearly a whole day enjoying the city, I realised I was slipping behind in my schedule so I decided to take the late overnight train to Zurich in Switzerland, this took 12 hours, as dawn arrived there were some breathtaking scenery of the mountains that separates the countries. it was also snowing which added to the beauty. Arriving at Zurich about 9 a.m. to a brilliant sunny and warm spring morning.
After a hearty Swiss breakfast I managed to contact Trudi Graf who was a friend of Guy Lister, whom I have known for years in New Zealand. Trudi’s job was supervising airhostesses for Swiss Air, she had already arranged for me to stay with herself, her parents and brother Ernst who shared a large home together. While waiting for Ernst to collect me after his work day finished I decided to explore the city, also taking a two hour bus tour which showed me the main highlights and some history, including the lovely Opera house, Town hall, the financial and industrial area, old cobbled streets with many historical buildings, different shapes to other countries of Europe.
Ernst finally arrived and after a very nice meal he showed me some of the nightlife of Zurich city, including quite a few small bars. I sampled some of the local beers and a local drink called Apple milch, served like a milk shake, delicious but had a rather powerful reaction. The last stop before returning to the Graf home was an English pub. It had been a long time since I had slept after the train journey the night before.
Next morning Ernst suggested a drive into the country, stopping first at the beautiful Reinfall waterfalls, which surges in a boiling mass into the Rhein River. We drove through a number of small towns, including Appenzell, Krevzlingen and Wattnill, all with lovely cobbled streets and delightful old houses and churches. A lunch stop was a chance to sample a spaghetti and beef dish and of course a long cool beer. Nearing the German border the difference in the languages was noticeable, Ernst even had a problem trying to understand it, he mostly spoke Zurich Swiss and English with a Canadian accent after spending years in Canada.
We returned to Zurich through some stunning mountain scenery, alpine villages and ski resorts, although it was late spring there was still lot’s of snow around. Driving back down to the valley, we passed fields of lush pasture and a great display of the white Edelweiss wild flowers. On arrival back at the Graf house it was time for another traditional Swiss meal, which included hot cheese fondues, many cold meats, an assortment of cheese with crackers and finished with a delicious Apple Strudel. plus an assortment of tempting wines.
Next morning, and spring has sure arrived, Trudi and her parents were my tour guides for the day, starting with a drive through many lovely little towns, the bigger ones we bi-passed, our first stop was Bern, the capital of Switzerland, many old beautiful buildings made up the town centre, bears are the national emblem for the city and are displayed in huge pens. We were lucky to view the astronomical clock displaying its hourly show of moving animals and people. There was a huge Cathedral and steeple, which we climbed for a greater view of this picturesque centre of parliament.
Moving on we were soon among some spectacular mountain scenery, it had snowed earlier which made a fairy like image of lovely Swiss chalets and huge trees with blobs of white bending their branches. We arrived at Lake Lucerne but were disappointed, there was a festival in progress, absolutely no parking anywhere, sadly we had to drive on around the lake, selecting a stylish restaurant overlooking the lake for a tasty meal.
On returning to Dübendorf there was still time to enjoy some of the night life for some farewell drinks as I was moving on in the morning.
I caught the Trans European express south to Florence in Italy, travelling through some more spectacular mountain scenery, at one stage the railway lines spiralled up, criss-crossing it’s own tracks, quite scary, plus countless tunnels. I needed to change trains in Milano, as usual you get a poor expression of a city from a train window. After at least twenty more tunnels and then lovely valleys dotted with small villages, the train finally arrived at the historical and beautiful city of Florence.Unfortunatly there was a special holiday next day which brought thousands more tourists, many still hunting for accommodation, I found a room but needed to stretch my budget to the limit, a lovely meal turned out very expensive also, one just has to try out the lovely wines.
Next morning I started to push my way through the throngs of people and try and take in the beauty with the help of a city tour map. My first stop was to view the beautiful Santa Maria Cathedral with its huge terracotta dome and richly adorned bell tower. I discovered that all museums and galleries closed at 1 pm. on public holidays.
Wondering around the city, i enjoyed the beauty of the oldest and most picturesque Ponte Vecchio Bridge, the only one left intact during world war two. Today many shops, which are suspended out over the river, sell many designer labels and craft. It was fascinating to watch the craftsmen at work making beautiful jewellery and painters producing mini masterpieces. Other exciting places within walking distance included the Giotto’s Bell-tower, the Baptistery and the Piazza Della Signoria, which for eight centuries has been the political and civic centre.
Next morning I was able to see the original David, a beautiful marble statue housed in the Academy, a bronze copy also stands in the Piazzale della Michelangelo.
Back on the train again, this time heading for Rome, I shared an apartment with a couple from Frankfurt, after a while the lady asked if I spoke English, she introduced them as Walter and Gertrude Junge. I was soon enjoying hearing about all the beauty of Rome. When I questioned them about their home, Gertrude said she was actually born in Stod, Czechoslovakia. Amazing as that was where my ancestors came from. After discussing how the early migrates came to N.Z. she new all about it as some of her relations were among them. Her family name of Karl was well known to me and for sure there was a link up to my family as the early pioneers had kept to themselves and married within their families. Gertrude had left her homeland as a child to settle in Germany before world war two. After all this interesting conversation time had passed and we were nearly in Rome. They were travelling further on, so it was goodbye never thinking that I would see her in N.Z. many years later, I will write about that in another story.
Now Rome railway station was alive with hundreds of tourists and a long wait at the tourist centre for accommodation. A pension owner standing nearby said he had a room to let quite close, what luck, I was soon organised and ready to start exploring this fascinating city, equipped with a map I made use of the rest of the day checking out some of the well known places of interest in the city. Firstly I found the famous Trevi fountain, an amazing work of art with water spouting from lions, fish and human statues, and surrounded by beautiful marble artwork. There was just time to admire the Capitol and the great staircase leading up to this work of art by Michelangelo. Climbing the floral lined steps to the church of Trinita dei Monti is only for the very fit, and has a wonderful view once this has been achieved. This was all I had time for this first day so I settled on a lovely pizza and lots of very nice red wine.
Early next morning I made my way to the Vatican City first crossing the Tiber River by the Fabricius footbridge and the Treasury and beautiful library which proved very historical and interesting. The Vatican City is the smallest state in the world, a mere 0.44 kilometres. St Peters square, the centre of Christianity for over a thousand years, is a perfect ellipse two hundred metres wide, surrounded by magnificent colonnades. The Vatican has it’s own police, diplomatic corps and army, including the famous Swiss guards
St. Peters Basilica is the largest Christian church and is dominated by the 136 mitre high dome, it took an age to study the magnificence of it’s vastness, a climb to the top of the dome was quite a challenge and proved quite claustrophobic with it’s narrow stairway. Beautiful examples of Michelangelo’s art were everywhere. Close by is the Sistine chapel which I was looking forward to see, but somehow I had picked the very day that it was closed for the afternoon, a real disappointment but I did make a vow to return one day.
It was time to leave Rome, would have liked to spend another day but I did have a schedule to keep, I caught the train to Nice on the French Riviera. , We followed the Mediterranean coastline passing many lovely towns and villages, I shared a compartment with two Australian couples, we shared many experiences and lots of laughter about some of the silly things we have done on tour. The scenery got better as we approached Monte Carlo and Monica, being after dark the lights were beautiful. There was an hour delay at the French border with customs and we finally arrived at my destination, Nice. I managed to find a room close by the station even though there was a carnival on. My Australian friends had already booked a hotel but waited to make sure I had a place to go to.
As I started out for my lodgings, I slipped on some dog droppings, with the weight of my back pack I fell and twisted my ankle, it soon began to swell and become painful, I quickly made my way to the hotel, I remarked to my friends I may have to return to England instead of carrying on with my travels, we said goodbye.
Next morning my ankle was more painful so I decided on checking it out at a clinic close by, after an ex-ray it was discovered I had chipped a small bone, they bound it up and were going to charge me an outrageous amount but I caused a scene and they decided to make a realistic charge.
My room was on the fourth floor, the elevator went to the third; somehow I managed to take the stairs with the help of a walking stick the receptionist loaned me. The next two days I needed to elevate my leg, all I had with me were some biscuits, I never had any liquid, no way in getting in touch with the office, (that is the problem when you are travelling on the cheap) The end of the second day my Australian friends arrived, they were very upset as they had told the receptionist to be in touch if I couldn’t make it back to the train. The two men assisted me to the third floor where I was able to have a much needed shower, with fresh clothes on they helped me across the street to a restaurant, past feeling hungry I decided to order a big meal, but could only manage part of it, but the wine was nice.
The next morning my ankle was a little better so I tried to go on some tours of Monte Carlo etc. but was told they were all full, the tourist centre was of little help, I ended up taking a taxi to the French Riviera, it was raining lightly and I was amazed that the beach was just pebbles. It sure looked unattractive, far different from the postcards but what doesn’t in bad weather.
Next day it was still raining so I decided to risk my ankle and booked the express train back to Paris, my friends carried my luggage to the station, the train was already there, they put my pack on board for me. I thanked them, said my goodbyes and was soon starting on the all day journey in mere luxury.
I was seated beside a very attractive young lady, she was a model and had been working in Paris and had just taken a tour around Europe before going home to Canada. After hearing about my ankle she said she would guide me to a pension near the station that goes to Calais for my trip back to England.
The Express was very fast and smooth and only stopped at major stations, it was great watching the beautiful landscape of south and central France.
On arrival in romantic Paris my Canadian friend actually carried my pack from the train and suggested we shared a taxi as all buses were on strike and there was a huge riot in one area of the city, our taxi was bombarded with water bombs and there were many times the driver had to take alternative routes. Finally arriving at the pension we had to pay danger money for the taxi, luckily there was a spare room, although it was very late we later met in a street café for a meal, I received many envious looks from men wondering how I could be enjoying the company of such a lovely lady, I never complained.
The atmosphere of outside dining with music supplied by a small band, it was a lovely evening and made up for the pain I had over the last few days. I guess I tried some mysterious food, but washing it down with fine wine made one forget what you were eating.
Next morning I managed to book my ferry crossing to England in two days time and now I wondered how to see all the tourist spots of the city. I procured a map and plan of the Metro underground railway, this looked quite simple so with some in depth study I decided to travel to the nearest stations for each attraction with an all day rail pass. My first challenge was to visit the Eiffel tower; this proved how simple it was. There were not many tourists around so I was soon on a lift to the middle landing; giving me a superb view of greater Paris. My next stop was to the Notre Dame Cathedral, again arriving very close to the entrance, lots of history here and I spent some time enjoying the interior, though not quite as ornate as some of the Italian churches. I couldn’t get very close to the Arc de Triomphe but enjoyed watching the continuous swirling traffic as everyone tried to master the island where it stands. Avenue de Champs-Elyees is full of smart shops, cafes and cinemas, a bit too much for me to master on a sore leg but I did enjoy the beautiful buildings that line the Avenue a few more trips on the Metro took me to other areas of the city, it had been a full day and I was happy my ankle was getting less painful
Next morning I took a three hour city tour, hoping to see some museums and galleries, unfortunately they are all closed on Tuesdays, just my luck but I did manage to see lots of places I hadn’t explored by the Metro.
A final lovely pizza and delicious wines completed my last night in this fascinating city and time to pack for my boat trip
Catching the express from Paris to Calais it was a sad goodbye to the multi cultures of Europe; I was soon hearing lots of English spoken again after a month listening to many languages. It was a smooth passage across the Channel; I joined the passengers who were busy buying up much duty free liquor and cigarettes. On arrival in Dover I caught the train to Victoria station in London, I met my sister-in-law Angela and we took the double Decker bus back to their home in Hampstead Heath
After a good nights sleep and a big wash up of a months well worn clothes I took a walk to the local shops and, yes, found a lovely English pub where I enjoyed a nice counter lunch of steak and kidney pie, accompanied with some wonderful pints of lager beer. After Kerry and Angela finished work we took a long walk along the Thames River enjoying the longer evenings, a visit to another pub was enjoyable.
Next day I caught the underground train into the centre of London, a light drizzle was falling but not cold, I found the strikingly modern Museum of London, outside there is a section of the medieval town hall, which was built on Roman foundations, I enjoyed the history and displays. Next was Madame Tussaud’s Wax museum, wonderful exhibits of the world famous and royals, so very real. Old names like Piccadilly Circus, West End and Leicester Square and St. Paul’s Cathedral appeared before me as I strolled around the inner city, luckily my ankle was healing well. Finding my way back to Hampstead was an achievement as I had picked the time when everyone was coming home from work, I met Kerry and was ready for a few nice cold pints.
Another day of seeing the sights, Kerry had a day off so I let him be the tour guide, it was Saturday and the Camden markets was where everyone headed to buy their supplies of fresh fruit and vegetables, along with hundreds of stalls selling a cross section of craft and low priced clothes, next, taking the underground we made a revisit to Leicester Square, and I soon discovered that I had missed all the famous clubs and theatres, we decided on a comedy movie, I hadn’t been to one for many years, and I enjoyed it very much. Of course this part of the city bursts into action after dark when everyone unwinds from the stress of large city dwelling. It has always been a fascination for me to visit different pubs, many for just a look but many to partake in some of their fine product.
It was time to start off again, I had a Britrail Rail pass for a week, catching the underground from Chalk Farm to Kings Cross station was quite simple and here I started my journey north, my first stop was York. I found a nice bed and breakfast, dropped my luggage and started exploring this historic jewel of English cities with it’s ancient walls, narrow streets and splendid York Minster Cathedral, Built in the 14th century it’s huge size is softened by the fabulous stained glass windows. Walking along a particular cobbled street I noticed the upper floors of some buildings just about joined the other side. There were some picturesque stone bridges crossing small streams, this added to the lovely background of old English gardens bursting out in their spring glory. A lovely pub meal completed a very enjoyable day of sightseeing and now being able to talk to the locals and sample the fine beers.
There was still lots to visit in this lovely old city but I needed to move on, I caught the train to Edinburgh, in Scotland, the lovely countryside was bursting into colour, on arrival at this wonderful city I was greeted with brilliant sunshine, I had been told it always rains there. After booking into a B & B. my first stop was the famous Princes St referred to as the Golden Mile, it’s shops all dominated just one side of the street, the other beautifully landscape gardens lined with Art Galleries, the Royal Scottish Academy and the National Gallery. Over looking the city is the Edinburgh Castle, where the Tattoo is performed every year, it is dramatically perched on volcanic rock, glorious views can be admired from many vantage points in the castle, the Royal Scottish crown Jewels are also house there.
The shops were full of tempting souvenirs, I indulged in some very tasty shortbread, collected a few nick nacks to take home, then sorted out a nice Scottish pub which had live music, good beer, I politely turned down offers of drams of whiskey from the locals, also enjoyed a lovely meal of Haddock and Chips It was still daylight and nearly 10 pm, the flood lights were just appearing around the Castle and made it look so fairy tale
My plan was to travel north to Inverness so I caught the earliest train and was soon seeing a very rugged side of Scotland, stone fences and little farm houses among the rolling countryside, rugged highland cattle were just starting to appear after winter. There were three Scottish guys in the same compartment as I was, away for a few days’ holidays, they manage to consume a bottle of whiskey and many beers, and I promised to meet them in the evening at their hotel
The afternoon was cool when the train arrived, once again the town was closed for half a day, I found a very nice B & B., being off-season, not many people around.
The town has been known as the Capital of the Highlands since ancient times, it has a very interesting Museum and Art Gallery in Castle Wynd, also being close to the famous Loch Ness. I managed to book a cruise on the lake for next day; soon it was time to join my new friends. They were still drinking steadily, what stamina, I really enjoyed their stories about life in the Highlands and the old customs, which are still very strong.
Next morning, after a very hearty full breakfast I boarded to bus to take me to Loch Ness for the boat cruise. There was a light drizzle, which darkened the lake and left a soft mist among the trees along the shores. The Loch Ness Monster is the attraction of the lake, which brings thousands of tourists hoping to catch a glimpse of it amongst the murkiness, which in parts is 300 meters in depth. Maybe it all depends how many drams you had consumed beforehand.? We passed many old stately homes along the shoreline; there was a brilliant golden colour to the gorse, which was in full bloom.
On returning to the lock, we needed to raise our water level to enter the canal, unfortunately the gates wouldn’t close, now the passengers were left to the mercy of a rope ladder to clamber back up to dry land, not so good for a few older folk.
The town was quite busy, lots of gift shops with a large variety of souvenirs in relation to the Monster; all the old buildings made it a picture post card scene.
Once again I joined my friends in a pub, don’t think they had done much sightseeing, there was good entertainment, songs from the north, the food was very tasty along with the beer.
Moving on again, I manage to catch an early train for my journey to Glasgow, the weather had cleared and even some sunshine, more rolling countryside with snow capped mountains in the background. There has always been rivalry between Glasgow and Edinburgh, two of Scotland’s great cities. Glasgow was once the mighty centre of shipyards , now it is becoming a cultural centre and the home for Scottish Opera and Ballet.
I managed to find a pleasant B & B, placed my luggage and was soon enjoying the pleasant George Square, the centre of the city, surrounded by some grand stone buildings of the 19th century; I took a city tour which included a visit to a rare Gothic Cathedral, a wonderful Art Gallery and Museum. There is a small underground rail system nicknamed “ Clockwork Orange” for its colourful carriages. Still time to do my own walking tour, admiring the huge displays of colourful tulips in full bloom, I spoke to a gardener and asked him how the blooms were so even, he informed me the tulips were all grown in peat pots and as the blooms died off they were immediately replaced with already flowering species, quite clever, and this way the display lasted many weeks.
It was an overcast morning; I took the train to Manchester, which is back in Northern England. very lush countryside, simular to the central north island of N.Z. the main difference being the stone fences and old farm houses. The city was once thriving on the textile industry; also it has a 58 kilometre Ship Canal dug to the sea in 1894, turning the inland city into a port for ocean-going vessels.
World war two bombings had demolished the city mills and slums; it was rebuilt in modern style, changing the character completely. Clean air laws removed all the grime of decades and made for a brighter place to live. I had arrived on yet another half-day closure of the city and with the help of a local I managed to find a small hotel for a bargain price bed and breakfast. His one parting question was, “ Why the hell pick Manchester to visit?”I couldn’t answer him then but during a city tour I could pieced together some of the history that surrounds the area that made my visit interesting. Like the Art Gallery, Museum of Science and Industry; a Gothic Town Hall and a huge memorial to Queen Victoria’s husband Albert.
I left early next morning, as days are getting short on my rail pass, the last night was to be in Llandudno, north Wales, the sun was shining and I was soon enjoying the lovely seaside town with sweeps of hotels and guest houses so there was no trouble in finding a suitable place to stay. This junction is the link to Hollyhead; catching a local train I was soon enjoying the busy port where ferries leave for Ireland. Returning I discovered Conwy Castle, an example of medieval fortification, also took a walk around the battlefields and walls of the town.
My time was far too short in this lovely peaceful town, but unfortunately I needed to head back to London, so next morning after another walk around this lovely peaceful town, with it’s quaint little shops, many unchanged for many decades. Still a little time for a different view of the castle, busloads of tourists were arriving; I guess it was time to leave.
The journey back to London was a mere four hours, being the express direct from collecting passengers from Ireland, it wasn’t long before the lovely rolling green countryside of Wales were far in the distance and we were back to short distances between towns, although we only stopped in cities.
In London I checked times for trains and buses to Brighton and Bath, two places I really wanted to visit, I found my way to the right platform for the train to my cousin’s Ken and Lyn. Becker, where I will be staying for two nights. Amazing myself with no mistakes, I was soon enjoying their company, lots of family news to tell, discussion on my trip to Europe and England. With the help of some very nice wine we all enjoyed a lovely meal.
Next morning, using my increased knowledge to catch the underground back into London city, I needed to check on my homeward flight, plus accommodation for my two nights in Hong Kong. There were still some sightseeing to do; I managed to view the changing of the guards at Buckingham. Palace, also enjoyed some museums and art galleries that were closed on my previous visit. St Paul’s Cathedral was worth another visit as there had been many tour buses the last time I was there
We enjoyed a lovely barbeque in nice warm sunshine back at my cousins place, after which Ken took me into Soho for a look at the night life, it sure had changed from a few hours ago, we enjoyed a selection of different beers in many pubs.
Next morning, after saying my goodbyes I caught the train into Paddington Station and was soon on my way south by an express train to Bath, just a small city, I soon found a B & B, and started to explore. The Romans had discovered hot spring water in the first century and established a small settlement and hot baths. They can still be seen today. After being excavated in the seventeen century. A hundred years later no one went in much for bathing until special baths were built for sufferers of gout and soon became very popular, it was fashionable to” take the waters” for London society.
It is amazing how the Romans controlled the water, the Great Bath had gushing sacred springs, very ornate and historical .The pump room is now used as a nightclub
Lots of interesting museums and galleries, including a display of clothing from the seventeen century to modern times. Cobbled streets added to the historical setting, lots of small old shops selling tourist items, as usual the pubs were a delight, no two alike.
This morning I am having a change from trains and boarded a bus to Brighton by the sea. I just had two hours to enjoy this very popular beach. Brighton’s Regency charm is unique, it was developed into a resort town in the 1780’s with a new style of architecture, rows of ornate hotels and guesthouses lined the waterfront. A famous holiday house is the Royal Pavilion, it is domed and turreted, no expense was spared on the extravagant interior featuring Chinese motives, costumed oriental figures, beautiful banquet room, library and ornate bedrooms.
I just had enough time to wander down to the amusement piers jutting out into the sea; I was told the lighting at night was spectacular. It was an overcast day with sunny spots, holiday makers were spread out on deck chairs along the pebble beaches, rolled up trousers and knotted handkerchiefs on their heads.
I would have loved to stay a night here but it was back to London on the late train and back to Kerry and Angela’s place.
The next two days were quite relaxing, visiting the weekend markets, a delightful trip to Kew Gardens, a beautiful display of trees and shrubs world wide, plus the heavily ornate iron lacework of the huge hot houses, again the home for thousands of exotic species from many countries. A final visit to my cousins for a farewell dinner, then a farewell evening at a Greek restaurant with Kerry and Angela, plus an evening with some of their new friends.
After my round of goodbyes, sadly it was nearing the end of a two-month holiday, and my last destination was a stop over in Hong Kong.
Kerry decided to take a day off work and come to the airport with me, time for a couple of good English pints of beer before a final goodbye and find my way through the maze of gangways to my air N.Z. flight.
The first brief stop was Frankfurt in Germany, then on to Muscat in Arabia for refuelling, quite a lot of soldier activities around the plane. The next stop was Kuala Lumpur, another refuelling stop, this time the passengers were aloud off for a leg stretch, all the duty free shops were open but we were advised to wait for Hong Kong for better value. A delay for a few minor repairs meant the plane was two hours behind schedule, compensated by complimentary drinks.
Landing on the Island of Hong Kong was a bit scary, the plane seems to come down through the maize of high rise buildings, just one runway, fancy looking out your window to see a D.C. 10 passing close by.
I had booked the International hotel in Kowloon, a bus was there to collect me, it was rather strange to be surrounded by hundreds of much shorter people, this is a British colony, which was obvious by the style of earlier buildings and English language being spoken by most.
I had hardly had time to book in and take a shower when I had a phone call, a jewellery shop wanted to show me what great bargains they had to offer. This was 9 pm. , I said I would look without obligation. The shopkeeper was waiting in the foyer for me and after working our way through the busy streets, arrived at his magnificent shop, all gleaming with gold and precious stones, cameras, watches and electrical appliances.
N.Z. has a very high tax on these items and here were prices unheard of. I had planned on buying a watch, a portable radio and a camera. I ordered two made to measure silk dress shirts to be ready the next day. Tired like I was, and limited time here I soon decided on the items I wanted to buy, struggled back to my hotel with an armful of reasonably priced goods.
Next morning I booked a four-hour tour of Kowloon and the New Territories, I was collected by a courier by foot and taken through many tiny streets, back allies and across busy roads to the bus departure depot, with four H.K. dollars to one N.Z. dollar, the whole trip was only $10. and there were two guides with the driver. The tour started with a drive through the jungle of high rise offices on Hong Kong Island, then hundreds of state apartment blocks which were rented for a mere $8 N.Z. per month. Next was Kowloon with its markets, hundreds of shops and shoppers, then a view of another huge piece of reclaimed land nearly ready for building. On to the New Territories, to the lookout for Communist China, Local people could go and visit their family by taking a train to a dividing river, get off and walk across a bridge, then rejoin another train. Tourist were aloud a day pass as long as it was by a tour. I decided a view was all I required..
An old wrinkled faced Chinese woman kept tugging on my shirt and saying, ‘ dollar, dollar”, I kept telling her to go away thinking evil thoughts! I was informed later she only wanted a photo of her and me for a dollar, well, how was I to know?
We visited a very colourful Riverboat for a lunch stop; it had been used in the film, “ the World of Suzie Wong”. Travelling back to Kowloon the bus passed many shantytowns, dwellings made from anything that could be partly waterproof. It was certainly a different world from what I am used to. After the tour finished there was still some time to wander around the busy markets, I was not impressed by the butcher shops, fresh meat hanging, and no refrigeration and covered with flies. Not really something us western people could cope with. A last minute purchase of a few trinkets and it was time to collect my tailor made shirts and get ready for the final leg on my holiday.
Just ten more hours of very smooth travel and I was back in N.Z. It was nice to see the lovely green rolling hills and the city of Auckland, a welcome sight after two very busy months travelling to many countries, experiencing different cultures, I had discovered that my appetite for travel was just beginning and hope that this will be the start of enjoying more of the wonders of adventure.
As usual our N.Z. customs were drooling at the mouth, wondering how much duty they can strip of the travellers, at a time when most luxury items had a 40 % plus tax, we were there for the picking. I think each person was only allowed $100 of duty free items each and then you needed to pay what suited them. This of course has completely changed over the years when taxes were dropped and most goods could be bought at good prices within N.Z.
As this was my first time out of the country I look back now with satisfaction at an adventure that had been out there just waiting to be discovered and travelling through Europe with a back pack is surely the way to see all these wonderful places.
This is the year 2006 and I have just re-written my first attempt of writing travel stories, the first addition was not very exciting or interesting. I needed to rely on my memory, plus lots of research to add a bit of colour to those great places that I have had the fortune to visit.
It looks like I will be doing quite a few more of these re-writes till the standard of my stories improve so I have a big job ahead, it will also be a chance to relive some of those glorious experiences.
Till my next story.

Jim